Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by greensabbath, 27 Feb 2021.
Ok, that's enough for now. I promise I'll finish it this week.
*casually whips out a drum sander. Are there any more high-end toys you have been hiding?
Rebuilds: Do what you want, as long as you don't burn them... or paint the wood. Seeing a hardware upgrade using your new toys would be cool.
Theres a big lathe and a very nice drill press... thats about all though. My shop is actually pretty small but I've crammed lots of things in it. I'd probably keep Sangaku air cooled as it would be my shop computer probably but we'll see.
With my stock cut to thickness and the model adjusted I started cutting out the real thing. I used a double flute 1/4 inch bit:
From here I started on the cover piece. I used a 2mm Single Flute bit and a 1/4 inch bit for this:
I forgot about the pump wire cover so at the last minute I added it into the model and cut it out of the same piece:
And both together:
To attach the two halves I made threads in the Wenge. I tested this first to make sure the threads would work well:
From there, I hand drilled some holes into the acrylic to attach it to the main plate:
Lastly I did a V-Carve of the Kanji for Ikigai:
A monumental moment came when I could finally glue up the big wood pieces. I started by sanding the insides of the pieces to be glued.
I mixed some wood glue and dye together to make a dark glue just in case the joints weren't perfect.
I did the same for the PSU caddy:
Then it was time to start gluing:
Once the glue was dry I sanded the joints smooth
With everything sanded I could start the finishing process. I used Danish Oil then a top coat over that with everything being a wipe-on then wipe-off kind of finish.
My CNC machine made a decent but not perfect finish on the acrylic edges. To clean this up I just used sandpaper. I do not want a polished edge as I like how the polish/satin look together so I'm just aiming to get an even matte surface.
I put some sheets of 220, 320, and 600 grit sand paper on my table saw, since it is a flat surface, and went to town.
How it started:
I used a Wenge sanding block for some of the smaller pieces:
I decided to add some black A.C. Ryan mesh on the outside where the Kumiko covers the fans, for the extra contrast. This might hurt performance a little, but it looks slick so its an acceptable trade-off.
At first I tried to machine it on my CNC but since it is steel, and a bit wavy at that, it went about as well as I expected.
Instead I decided to use some tin snips and this worked great:
Once cut to size, I used a template I made for the radiator shroud to mark and drill the holes to allow the bolts to go through:
I went back and forth on whether to make a shroud for the radiator and fan setup and decided to do it since it would clean up the inside of the case a bit. I made a model to make sure it would work with the other components. It would be made out of a combination of Wenge and brushed black aluminum from A.C.Ryan.
I resawed some Wenge on the bandsaw and ran it through the drum sander to make it smooth:
I then cut the pieces to length:
For the joinery I wanted something simple but strong so I decided on one big dovetail. I did these the same way I did the ones on the PSU holder.
One last piece of CNC machine work on this. I needed to route a relief area for fan wires:
Dovetails all done and tested with the practice piece:
Glueup started after that:
While the glue was drying I went to work on the aluminum part of the shroud. This attaches to the radiator itself.
Ready to go. This is a 3/16 inch single flute bit:
Tested with the Wenge, it is a snug friction fit:
Gluing it together on wood, with wood bracing.
-Now see, If that was one of us, that would all be one part now.
Nothing a bit of brute force and good luck wont fix. I was sparse on the glue for just that reason. I also realized theres a lot of the log left.
I wanted a bit of Pizazzzz in the center acrylic panel so I decided to route a groove and add an Alphacool LED strip in there. Luckily these are super thin so the groove could be small.
I used the router table with a spiral carbide bit:
I chose 12mm clear PETG for this case, using some bends also. I have not done bending before so this was a new challenge and I have more respect for people who do this often, its not easy.
I first laid out all the fittings to see where they'd need to go.
And got my tools ready:
I used a cheap Barrow tubing cutter and a Primochill tube trimmer to get all the tubes dialed. Luckily I bought lots of extra tubing since there were a few misshaps, especially on the double bend. I got it though and it turned out pretty good.
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