Bixie_62, Hope that JohnH is correct. But didn't you inform that you managed to get the full 16 lines when using the Crystalfontz program? Anyway, heres a simple connection table I did for you, based on the schematic in the LCD Smartie website: Printer Port pin connected to LCD pin =========== ======= 1 6 2 7 3 8 4 9 5 10 6 11 7 12 8 13 9 14 14 5 16 4 Printer port pins 18 to 25 connected to ground. Rest of the pins leave unconnected. LCD : pin 1 connected to ground pin 2 connected to power (+5V) pin 3 is contrast control. Connect to 10K trimpot as in schematic or connect direct to ground for simplicity. pins 15 & 16 is for the backlight (leave it for now). Use the PC's 5V line for power. I use the floppy power connector, or use the molex connector. 5V is the red wire, ground is black. Some hints: Best use multicolor wires as it's easier to trace the connection (I use ribbon cable). To avoid solder shorts, especially at the printer port, heatshrink each connection. ARM
hey ive checked and double checked the wiring, including using your wiring scheme, the only difference was the pin 14 i think it was, which should've been connected to pin 5 on the lcd, i grounded that pin. what i'll do is see if it makes and difference using a different printer cable. does it matter that im using a PRINTER cable and ive just chopped off the useless end and soldered that to the lcd (checking pinouts and everything of course!) thanx
Hi again, The Crystalfontz test software will work correctly as, as far as I can tell, all of their 1x16 displays are actually arranged as a 2x8 display as can be seen from this extract from their test software : DISPLAY_PARAMS_STRUCT display_codes[10]= { { 8,2,1,{0x80,0xC0,0x00,0x00}}, //0: 8x2 {12,2,1,{0x80,0xC0,0x00,0x00}}, //1: 12x2 //16x1 is a special case: right half looks like second line of 8x2 { 8,2,1,{0x80,0xC0,0x00,0x00}}, //2: 16x1 {16,2,1,{0x80,0xC0,0x00,0x00}}, //3: 16x2 {20,2,1,{0x80,0xC0,0x00,0x00}}, //4: 20x2 {24,2,1,{0x80,0xC0,0x00,0x00}}, //5: 24x2 {16,4,1,{0x80,0xC0,0x90,0xD0}}, //5: 16x4 {20,4,1,{0x80,0xC0,0x94,0xD4}}, //6: 20x4 {40,2,1,{0x80,0xC0,0x00,0x00}}, //8: 40x2 //40x4 is a special case: top half looks line 1st 40x2 bottom half //looks like 2nd 40x2 {40,2,2,{0x80,0xC0,0x80,0xC0}} //9: 40x4 }; That means that if you have a display that is arranged in a similar fashion the Crystalfontz sotware will drive it correctly. If you wish to try out Crystal Control version 1 (the original sofware they provided to drive their modules) it can be obtained here : http://www.crystalfontz.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=625 This software will allow you to display the 'normal' things such as temperatures, fan speed, song title, artist etc. There is also a version 2 of Crystal Control but some users appear to be having problems when using it with a parallel port connected device (I have not tried it so I cannot comment further). Of course, on the other hand, you might be lucky and will work correctly. Good luck, JohnH
hey ive tried a few versions of crystal control, no luck. well it looks like im in the market for a character LCD!! so if anyones got one going that they're willing to sell, ive got cash waiting and the above mentioned 1x16 display too! thank you!
If you used a printer cable, BE WARNED, the pins are often connected weirdly, or some aren't connected. Did you check every that every pin is connected with a multimeter? Did you check that no pins were connected together inside the cable (this sometimes happens on cheap printers. I would suggest building a cable from scratch.
hey all @fishcake, checked and double checked with multimeter, all connections are isolated from each other, no crossing, no cross soldering. im fed up of this! looks like i may be purchasing a 4x20 Seiko LCD, using the HD44780 controller, model number L2014(something like that) for the grand sum of......£7! lol. yup so for now....thank you everyone at bit for the help!
LCD Problem: solution use the driver for 2x16 and dont address line 2 problem maybe solved like this then send a bug report to the software vendor include your designs and code
tried that, have already stated what happens if i dont use the second line, it still only acts as a 1x16 and only the first 8 are used. did i mention that the 'test' signal is only the first 8 blocks perhaps this may point to somethng? thanx
the member above points out a config file try to add a line to it 16,1,1,{0x80,0x00,0x00,0x00}}, //2: 16x1 can you tell me the type of lcd display so i can have a quick look at the data sheet or its controller take it its a hd44780 ?? the address range for the blocks is line 1= 80-8F as one range a stupid question is your bios set to ecp or epp etc you need to set it to normal maybe there is a problem with the lcd its selt or its pcb print or the port has a problem buffer output
hey its a SEIKO M1641 display, a 1x16 display, and yup, its a hd44780 which config file?! and what do i use to edit it? thanx
cure lcd smartie site instructions link to site page maybe the last point applies ??? as for other programs maybe there is a similar thing like to modify there config file .cfg or .ini to add the type as i mentioned above maybe this would fix it Configure the settings for your display: Port: the address of your parallel port (usually 378, but 278 and 3BC are also common). Driver boot delay (s): Only change this setting if you are having trouble with LCD Smartie using your display too quickly after booting. Timing multiplier: If your display fails to work or displays random characters then your display may need longer to process our commands - try setting it to 5. >>>>>>>>>> Use alternative addressing: Use this if your display is a 1x16 and only half of the display is working. i think this little app is quite good and i have a spare 40x4 so maybe ill wire up a cable i learned a few things about it the version they quote and display on there instructions page is different from the release as the menu items are in different places and now i know why there main download is not the beta for release its the older version and dosnt have this feature leading to confussion download the later version beta now and see if this fixes it download here
thank you thank you thank you!! will try it out when i get home, am still gna purchase that 4x20 display tho. is there any way that i can run 2 displays at the same time?off the same parallel port? THANK YOU!!!!(once again bit comes through!) suggestion: once ive tried that program and/or the settings change out, is it possible to perhaps add this to the sticky, the fact that some 1x16 displays may behave like this. may help someone else!
' >>>>>>>>>> Use alternative addressing: Use this if your display is a 1x16 and only half of the display is working.' Good find Vsmlibs. Bixie_62, Hope this cures the problem. And good luck on your new LCD. ARM
rightio cant believe it was so damn simple!lol yup, it works! and the new lcd, not happening, the company i was gna buy off has a minimum order value of 50quid, ive asked and they wont make an exception. o well. (still in the market for a cheap lcd by the way!so if anyones got one going, or seen a good deal let me know!) is there any way that a 'question' could be added to the FAQ in the sticky, something like, 'ive got a 1x16 display and only the first 8 blocks are being used' a: select alternative addressing. still cant believe it was so simple! now.....to backlight it!lol thanx again all
nice one... a happy ending.. Well i am glad it worked after a sore head what i do is just dont take no for an answer going by this rule where there is a will there is always a way hum i get my lcd's from maplin here in glasgow scotland your limited to sending for them either to england or central europe but maplin aint so expensive a 4X20 costs £38 inc vat {about 70 euro's/$ } delivered to your door or call your local store and ask if one is in stock, here is the code N30AZ / EVP, 4X20chars supertwist they also sell the 4x40 and 4x80chars i think the 4x40 is £48 and 4X80 £68 be warened they have a new catalogue out so check it out first you may find they have stopped suppling them if this is the case ask them to do a store search but dont leave it too long as there stocks will disappear quick i get sick of maplin every year the real good bits they sell get replaced by imported eastern plastic junk, high turnover stuff, at the expence of the electronic components stock levels. so it becomes craper and craper
Tell me about it.. Maplin used to be useful because you could go and get some components without having to wait for an order to arrive, but now they hardly sell anything, and what they do sell is really expensive. Just yesterday I was in there trying to buy some 1k resistors, she gave me some and I said they weren't 1k because the colour code said 1.1, then theres a huge argument about whether they are 1k or not. Eventually the multimeter comes out and it turns out that someone had put the 1.1s in the box for the 1s... why are people working on the component desk that don't even know the resistor colour code!
maplin is pretty useless for bits ye... however i never find resistors a problem the way i get past this is just visit maplin as a last resort also do all development in proteus vsm and visit my site for some extra models and libs and links to others or ask labcenter VSMLIBS i only buy most stuff direct from component suppliers in epe /electronics world /circuit magazine's adverts seems the only way to get quality, quantity and price most often maplin just dosnt have it in stock or they start a teath backdraft routine and grasp for a catalouge or wag there head at a monitor and say next week or there computer is slow localy in glasgow is an RS componets but man you need to win the lottery and work for trump to buy stuff out there shop or even get served best stick to proteus vsm for development unless you actualy need a physical unit its just about as cheep as buying thestuff to find an old p1/2 and run a session of proteus all the time on it
Anyone buying resistors from Maplin should be aware that the resistors they sell mostly seem to use the 5 band colour system as opposed to the more common 4 band system- for example a 1K resistor in the 4 band system is brown, black, red then a gap and the tolerance colour (normally silver or gold to signify 10% and 5% respectively) whilst in the 5 band system that same resistor would be brown, black, black, brown followed by a tolerance band, which for 10% is brown. This can be confusing as it is only too easy to start reading from the wrong end - but a good link to a tool that helps overcome this potential problem is: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-colorcode.htm. Also, if anyone is looking for LCDs a good place to start is: http://www.watercoolingshop.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=62 - blue/white 4x20 for £21.99 (inc VAT)
21.99 = £22 + postage of £4.50 = 26.50 i suppose its better however the ones they supply arent supertwist so if your off angle you cant see them brilient i looked at lots of places to find them cheep usa is the best but again as soon as you get it in the uk you pay an import tax ... around £1 per 10$ value ill need to investigate the market in the uk for cheep ones i did find some places that are good like auctions you can buy 100 units that have the same display with a little work youll get a good lot deal {10 -20 quid for up to 50 units} scrap them for lcds and sell them in ebay to cover any costs youll still make a few hundred quid for a few hours work and youll have heeps of components left over forinstance job lots of old sat navs {tosh 6369 controller} usualy 128 by 128 dots or taxi gandalf displays {customer address display 80chrs 4 lines} etc esp old casio or toshiba typewriters you find these in charity shops the display in these is a standard hd44780 or sed chip maybe i should keep this type of info top secret however this is exactly what surplis companies do then sell it to us... so cut out the middle man and make his money