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Other LED Light bulb advice

Discussion in 'General' started by modd1uk, 12 Jan 2013.

  1. Unicorn

    Unicorn Uniform November India

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    While we're on the subject of lighting, I don't suppose either of you two lighting designer gents have any experience with industrial (but kinda not, if you know what I mean...) lighting for work benches? As well as the garage, I need to redo the workshop lighting soon.
     
  2. longweight

    longweight Possibly Longbeard.

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    You mean vapour proof fittings?

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Unicorn

    Unicorn Uniform November India

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    I mean vapour proof, individually switchable and not crappy looking with a poor level of diffusion. Basically, I mean something that looks modern, bright and is more functional than the standard 5' single tube (undiffused) fittings that I have there at the moment. Yes to LED, yes to IP65 and absolutely yes if they are well diffused and lower energy than the 5' fluorescents - I can make them individually switchable if necessary, it's not hard to install a panel mounted toggle switch in each fitting.

    Since I'm asking experts now instead of t'local electrical wholesaler down t'road, have either of you ever seen fluorescent fittings with a right angled body on them to fit into corners etc? Because I'm almost sure I have seen them, but cannot find them anywhere, online or from local wholesalers.

    [edit]

    Upon further inspection, those Toshibas look perfect if the right angle ones aren't available! Well played and thank you :thumb:
     
    Last edited: 15 Jan 2013
  4. longweight

    longweight Possibly Longbeard.

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  5. Unicorn

    Unicorn Uniform November India

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    Yes, exactly! Although those are designed for prison cells :worried: Is there anything more "lab" oriented like that?
     
  6. longweight

    longweight Possibly Longbeard.

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    Hmm maybe, I will have a think who else might do them.

    Could you not mount a standard IP65 batten on some 45 degree mounts?
     
  7. Unicorn

    Unicorn Uniform November India

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    I mocked it up a while ago, but unfortunately there's not a lot of space to do that, I just found these though, the angled version of which seems perfect.
     
  8. modd1uk

    modd1uk Well-Known Member

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    To save me making a new thread can anybody suggest some led floodlights with PIR ? Or is it better to buy a seperate pir and floodlight ?

    Dont want to spend a fortune as I need 3, two for my house and one for the mothers.
     
  9. longweight

    longweight Possibly Longbeard.

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    They are T8 so you could use LED tubes if you wanted to at a later date.
     
  10. longweight

    longweight Possibly Longbeard.

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  11. Unicorn

    Unicorn Uniform November India

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    I would probably want to go with LEDs from the outset really. I'm aiming to not only brighten the place up, but reduce the energy usage as well. I think I'll go with the Toshiba fittings you suggested for the ceiling and an angled fitting along the bench. The only thing I see potentially wrong with the Sterilux Angled fittings is that they aren't IP rated. A vapour proof, chemical resistant 4' version of those would be the closest thing to perfect for my application - I might send you a photo later in the week to give you an idea of the area I'm hoping to illuminate. Can your company supply items from Designplan?
     
  12. longweight

    longweight Possibly Longbeard.

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    I'm afraid not but most electrical wholesalers should be able to get hold of them for you.
     
  13. Unicorn

    Unicorn Uniform November India

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    I'm an idiot, they are IP55 fittings which would be enough for my purposes.

    Cheers, your advice has been invaluable! I've been making enquiries about the new bench lighting for ages and came up against a brick wall every time. +rep for some very useful information and advice! :thumb:
     
  14. longweight

    longweight Possibly Longbeard.

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    No worries, if you need to find something a bit cheaper than the Toshiba then let me know.

    One thing to watch out for is the colour temperature and CRI of the LED / fluorescent. The fluorescent lamps will have a number such as 830 or 942 on them, the first number denotes the CRI (Colour Rendering Index), this is a value with a maximum score of 100, if the number if 8** then it has a CRI of 80-90 etc....

    The second two numbers are the colour temperature, 830 has a colour temperature of 3000K which is normal halogen lighting, 840 is 4000K which is a cooler light which you normally find in offices.

    LEDs can have a very low CRI, especially if they are cheap! They don't all state the colour temperature / CRI in the same way as fluorescent lamps. You might already know this but I thought that it was worth mentioning!
     
  15. Xir

    Xir Well-Known Member

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    40pounds for a single bulb.... :D
    A decent "energy saving lamp"...not a cheap rubbish one, is going to cost you under 5pounds.
    You selected Philips, so, say a Philips Tornado.
    Rated 20W equivalent to 75W incandescant, just like the LED one.

    It uses 3 Watts more for 35pounds less...woohoo!

    Waitm I've got a bulb here for you: :idea:
     
  16. Xir

    Xir Well-Known Member

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    seriously, it depends on the price...

    Lets look at a 40W incandescant, as used for ambient lighting, besides the telly maybe.
    That's going to be on long (good for energysavers), say 6 Hours a day.

    you could replace that with a:
    11W CFL costs ~1,5euros
    8.1W LED cost's ~12euros.

    The price difference buys me ~50KWh electricity.
    That's 3W you're going to save...how many days can you let it burn for the price difference?
    About 3000?... :D

    I'd wait a year or two (unless you've still got incandescants...those you can use for the cellar or so*)

    *My cellar has an average light burn time of ten minutes a week, not even the CFL pays off there
     
  17. longweight

    longweight Possibly Longbeard.

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    CFL is a horrible technology and should be avoided at all costs.
     
  18. Unicorn

    Unicorn Uniform November India

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    I have no problem paying that for fittings that are so perfect for what I need in the garage and on the workshop ceiling. I'm assuming the other angled ones for the bench will be a lot more! :)

    Another great post full of even more very useful info! :thumb: Thanks to my several years as a flashaholic/LED light freak I'm extremely wary of 'Nichia blue' or just plain cool temp lights - I'm firmly in the neutral to warm white camp now :thumb:
     
  19. modd1uk

    modd1uk Well-Known Member

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    Bump, bought some cheapo GU10's off ebay, lasted 6 months then popped, crap. After some reading i decided on these

    http://www.energysavingled.com/product/led-spots/6w-led-spot/

    As they seemed to get great reviews. Opted for cool white, but may have to swap them for warm white.

    Can anybody recommend anywhere to get bulbs to replace the normal lights in the house, b22 i think is the fitment ? Need some candle style ones.
     
  20. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    I've got a bunch of Phillips GU5.3 LED spots in the kitchen and bathroom. The three-led 5W versions are comparable to about 35W halogens; the four-led 6.5W ones are not quite 50W equivalents, I'd say more 40W. The beams are also narrower so that makes a difference as ceiling spots lighting a room.

    The colour temperature is 2700K which is nice, but feels like it has slightly too little green in the spectrum. With certain wall colours they have a slight hint of the orange sodium discharge light in them. Currently I mix LEDs with a few low-wattage halogen incandescent accent lights and that reduces that slight sodium discharge effect and blends nicely.

    In the kitchen I may try 3000K ones. They edge more towards white, but it should still look nicer than CCFLs because LEDs have a nice pure brilliance about them.

    In terms of energy use it's totally worth it. My kitchen has gone from 350W to 45W for the ceiling spots, and my bathroom from 80W to much better light at 23W.
     

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