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Lian Li DK-05F Build

Discussion in 'Watercooling' started by OWHF, 8 Jul 2020.

  1. OWHF

    OWHF New Member

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    I am new to water cooling, but have built many air cooled systems prior to this. I recently purchased a Lian Li DK-05F PC desk and was going to build a water cooled system. I am currently only focused on system one on the right hand side. Here are the system specs:

    System:
    Lian Li DK-05F
    AMD 3990X
    Asus ROG Zenith 2 Extreme Alpha
    NVidia Titan RTX
    EVGA 1600 T2 PSU
    Trident Z Neo 128 GB (4 sticks of 32gb)
    Corsair QL120 Fans​

    Water Cooling:
    EKWB FLT 360 Res Combo
    EKWB 480 PE Radiator
    EKWB TRX40 CPU Monoblock
    EKWB RTX Vector 2080 GPU Cooler
    BP TouchAqua Digital Thermal Sensor​

    My questions relate to how I should layout this loop. If you take a look at the attached photos the bracket on the 360 reservoir is for the D5 pump, they also provide a bracket which is half the height for a DDC pump. Would either a DDC or D5 be sufficient for this build?

    If you take a look at the reservoir with the D5 bracket is about the same height as the bottom port on the radiator. Is this ok? Also the photo of the CPU block from where the fan is, is showing that the edge of the right side of the radiator is not in line with the center of the CPU inlet. I would have to Z the line.

    I don't have the video card installed since i'm waiting for the GPU block to come in.

    I am all ears on how some of you would recommend setting up this loop.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. OWHF

    OWHF New Member

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    I think i'm going to flip the radiator around and then run the bottom rad line into the front res port. The top rad port will then run into the out port of the CPU. From the Res/Pump out I will run that into the GPU and then from the GPU into CPU.... I will then have a valve on the back facing res port. Do you think the height of the res is too high? I've heard that the res should be the lowest point for draining, but in a flat case that is difficult to accomplish....
     
  3. Bloody_Pete

    Bloody_Pete Technophile

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    Oooof, you have some deep pockets :p

    So the rest should be the top of the system as bleeding air is more important than draining (although draining that system will be a nightmare). Go for the D5, I've used 3 or 4 now and they've all been super silent. DCC's can be noisey and hot. Set the D5 (I seggest a variable model) to a med setting, thats where I run mine, plenty of flow but no noise. Just remember you need to keep that res topped up, as these pumps use the water as lubricant, so if that run dry you're going to have a bad time. With your radiator woes, whart you need is one of these bad boys (I run the thicker version). From testing I've seen they run about the sane as a U flow rad, but allow much easier and neater loop design!
     
  4. OWHF

    OWHF New Member

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    I'm thinking of maybe using just a FLT 360 body in the middle bottom bay and then a 120 FLT w/D5 against the back wall, this way the reservoir will be much lower to allow for better draining and the one against the back wall will allow for bleeding.
     
    Last edited: 9 Jul 2020
  5. Bloody_Pete

    Bloody_Pete Technophile

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    TBH with the orientation of most parts they're not going to drain anyway, so I wouldn't really worry about it.
     
  6. The_Crapman

    The_Crapman Don't phone it's just for fun.

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    Yeh I'd go with a D5 for those reservoirs and mounts. DDC need some proper dampening to be quiet. Mounting into the plexi/acrylic Res and then metal mounts would be a little loud.
     
  7. Smoked Brisket

    Smoked Brisket New Member

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    Man, I am worried about that FLT reservoir laying flat. I love the FLT's, actually think they offer great value when bought with the pump combo. But it looks like you will have maybe a millimeter of fluid level standing between you and a dry pump. It will look great no question, I am just a bit worried brother.

    Ok I just looked at my flt240/d5 closely, I would say there is 3 mm of depth to the pump intake hole. Still very tight.
     
  8. OWHF

    OWHF New Member

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    So this is the loop I came up with. I think its a decent attempt as my first water cooled system. One thing I will definitely be doing in future builds is to purchase an angle tool to get the correct angles and curvature, did these by eye. I do understand your point Smoked Brisket. I may place a washer on one end of the reservoir to make sure the pump entry always has fluid, however I will gauge it when I fill the loop. I'm still waiting for one more compression fitting. I'll post final pics when its running.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: 18 Jul 2020
    Smoked Brisket and Bloody_Pete like this.
  9. OWHF

    OWHF New Member

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    Cable management is always a pain in building. I did manage to do a decent job. This case actually has some holes that would allow for you to install a barrier between the board and where the cables reside on each side. Wish I had a cnc, laser engraver to make a custom divider....
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Smoked Brisket

    Smoked Brisket New Member

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    You don't need a cnc or laser engraver. A good drill, a circular saw, some acrylic and spray paint and you can make something beautiful. Check out "Declassified Systems" on youtube or "JPModified." Those guys have none of that expensive equipment and make incredible builds. Especially the former.
     
  11. Bloody_Pete

    Bloody_Pete Technophile

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    Looks great, but it is a shame the PSU is so exposed! Especially as the PC-011 Dynamic is so amazing for hiding all of that, you'd think they would have taken some lessons from it!
     
  12. OWHF

    OWHF New Member

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    I might try the acrylic and give it a shot
     
  13. OWHF

    OWHF New Member

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    I still haven't configured OpenRGB, waiting on an internal usb extension cable. The loop is definitely a little tedious with bleeding. This is the 3rd day running and i'm having to bleed the small air bubbles from the res with the system off and then refill it with water. I'm thinking there may be some air bubbles in the radiators that are still trying to make their way out.

    I think I may add a bleed port where the top output of the 120mm radiator is, so instead of having a compression fitting coming out, have some type of T fitting coming out so that I have a top port where I can bleed air from? Thoughts?

    I really love this desk case. I couldn't be happier with it. I do recommend that it is more for the mod-der in mind. I definitely am going to mod it soon with some acrylic to tidy up the wires and PSU visual, but other than that well worth it if you have the $.
     

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    Last edited: 25 Jul 2020
  14. Bloody_Pete

    Bloody_Pete Technophile

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    I think it should have been designed with a removable section for the PC and rads so you caould relove that, set it up and bleet it al leasier, then slot it in to the rest of the desk!
     
  15. OWHF

    OWHF New Member

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    My idle temps are sitting around 32C with basic usage. Is that an ok temp? I have the fans on min right now as I'm waiting on an internal usb cable to adjust fan settings and use openrgb.

    Can you provide some guidelines on what my temps should be between when idle and max?
     
    Last edited: 28 Jul 2020
  16. Bloody_Pete

    Bloody_Pete Technophile

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    Yeh thats fine, but idle isn't really the problem :p 70-80C is fine, if warm. I'm always happy if its around 50-60. Your 3990X will run hot, its one of the highest power draw chips ever made. You'll have to test it and see though really!
     
  17. Smoked Brisket

    Smoked Brisket New Member

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    That is a hot running cpu. Expect to see temps in the low 80's under load and be satisfied. What are your gpu temps at after a good hour of gaming?
     

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