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Liquid Red Lian Li

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by n0ize, 28 Dec 2003.

  1. n0ize

    n0ize What's a Dremel?

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    well i finallly decided it was time to go water cooled. think my mod experience has gotten to the point to handle it.

    Prime Goals:
    clean look on out side (no mounting stuff like bolts or window molding)
    easy to replace modified parts
    expandable with time
    DIY as far as i can go

    Victims:
    1 - Lian Li PC70
    1 - Asus a7n8x-D
    1 - XP 2500
    1 - Gainward FX5900 Ultra

    Little Helpers:
    1 - Swiftec h MCP600
    1 - PolarFlo SF
    1 - PolarFLo Chipset Cooler
    1 - DangerDen Maze4 VGA Waterblock
    1 - black ice pro or extreme radiator
    3 - 2x2x1/4 sheets of plexi
    and more.

    bare with me, this first one's a bit length as i just go my cam and snapped the pics.

    Customary Mod: Window
    Yes windows are done alot, but if you got it, show it off. must keep the mounting clean though. solution: counter sunk screws. somewhere in the forums someone mentioned this for mounting fans. all that was needed was some JB Weld, machine screws, few regrinded bits.

    method: Cute window. something i've learned from past mods. mesure the distance from all the edges of the case. nothing worse than putting in a window and not being able to completly close your case cuz of the plexi. that being said i mesured twice to make sure and cut the windo with enuf over hang for the screws.

    drill holes for screws, make them a few sizes bigger it makes it a ton easier later (remember that late). once them holes were drilled i placed all the screws in the holes and snugged up the nuts on them. great idea as it kept the JB Weld from sticking to the plexi and gave me a easy way to line up the nuts (something else i learned, make sure what you place it on is good and flat so the panel don't bend). let it set over night pulled the plexi off and countersunk the holes. end result was this. on the front

    [​IMG]
    and this on the rear
    [​IMG]

    came out really nice as far as i can see. helps to grind down any JB Weld that oozes out.

    only thing that munged it was the pc70 case has this nifty metal piece around the PSU. This was a problem
    [​IMG]
    the paper is just there to protect my parts from metal dust.
    and this was a solution.
    [​IMG]

    now this i didn't mesure and ended up having to cut the bolts, and will probably do this to the rest of them later.

    End result:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. n0ize

    n0ize What's a Dremel?

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    For the ones that noticed that i didn't have a res in my list of parts thats because of the DIY part :) i figured that it couldn't be all that hard to do it. so off i went to build the res.

    Things i learned after the fact. you can never have to much plexi. had i thought to stack two pieces and cut that way i may have not had to use aquarium sealent as a safe guard.

    Taking a que from the typhoon res's with the ports on the rear stacked in two rows, thats the route i went. and this is the result
    [​IMG]
    sorry bout the flash. you'll hardly notice the divider that is angled slightly to help bubbles escape (i hope) and the tube that runs the length.

    the rear has npt 3/8 threads (thank you ace for the tap)
    [​IMG]

    things you may notice, the divider is slightly slanted to hopfully aid in the escape of air bubbles. theres a tube running the lenth of it, and there is no top. the top will be done the same way as the window was done. however i need some of the parts so that i can align it right.

    reason being for this is i've always liked water reflections. so my intent is to run a UV ccfl through that tube to light up the water..

    the ports on there should help with route'n the water. one of the parts that i'm looking forward to watercooling is this one.

    frontal nude of card:
    [​IMG]
    backside nude of card:
    [​IMG]

    the ram heatsinks that came with the card should still be mountable after installing the waterblock.
     
  3. morotsmos

    morotsmos What's a Dremel?

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    Did you actually cut the window with that small metal cutter? :jawdrop:
     
  4. Snitch

    Snitch Supremodder

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    How do u use a nibbing cutter?
    How does it work?

    Nice window btw!
     
  5. Gnemelf

    Gnemelf Minimodder

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    can't wait to see some more on this one.. it looks like it will be a winner.. although you might wanna smooth out that window a little bit though...just a thought.
    none the less love it so far.. like the window :dremel:
     
  6. n0ize

    n0ize What's a Dremel?

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    The nibbler works very slick. it has a angled "mouth" that fits the metal inside of it and then cuts right through. no i didn't do the whole window that way, however some of the curves were nibbled out as the bend was to much for the jigsaw (how the bulk was cut :) ). if my hands could have taken the blistering i would have used the nibbler all theway around as it leaves a very nice clean looking cut.

    the edges will deffinatly be getting some more filing to give them a cleaner look. just for the time being i needed a case panel that would keep the cat out of my case. being able to easily remove the window is one of nice side effects of using the nuts/bolts. it's also likly that i may redo the pelxi of the window too. this is provided that window has enough size to be the top of my res, and it should very well be.

    now to just get off work so i can go home and play.
     
  7. ouija

    ouija Trust me, I am doctor!

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    Nice window design. I also had to mod the metal above my PSU in the same manner you have so an 80mm fan would fit there.

    Nice res, looks like a promising project.

    :dremel: :thumb:
     
  8. n0ize

    n0ize What's a Dremel?

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    ya, that nasty bit of metal above the PSU will be filled. but i'm going to wiat to do that till i pull out all the hardware. that dust is to fine and i don't really like the idea of that getting in there. the other stuff from the saw wasn't bad.

    right now i'm fixing the glitches in the window so it fits a little nicer and cleaner.
     
  9. Madyeti

    Madyeti Supermodder & sig shrinking victim

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    Looking good so far! Seeing the name is Red Lian Li, how do you plan to finish the outside of the case? Red Anodized would look mighty fine :brrr: , but expensive I suppose...

    Waiting for updates! David
     
  10. n0ize

    n0ize What's a Dremel?

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    Liquid Red. maybe i should have named it Red Liquid Lian Li

    uv reactive red, the calbes red sleeved, anythign i can make red and uv reactive. note the resivoir with the tube that runs the length of it. this is for a uv cathode to be "embedded" in the water and make nice water shadows. i'll be working on that part 2marrow after i finialize the measuments of the rad. the LAST thing i want to do is cut up the top of my case and get the res all sealed in and then find out that the rad takes up more room than i allocated.

    right now i'm wating for the jb weld to reset as when poping the window off several of the bolts decided to join it. of course this means that it'll be easier to smooth out the window later when i have a aquired a file that moves the metal quicker than the smooth one that i have.

    one of my side goals of makeing the window removeable is for etching. get sick of one etch i get a new plexi, redrill and re etch.

    i've still got a few ideas rolling around about what to do with the front of the case. the front fans have that simple and rather dull hole pattern that i'd love to get rid of and i've got plenty of left over chunks of plexi
     
  11. n0ize

    n0ize What's a Dremel?

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    Well i have all my water cooling parts on a ups truck some where in buffalo, new york. they should be here the 6th.

    in the mean time i'm testing for leaks on the res. having an extra few bare cathodes from my last case i slid one of them in the cathode tube. yes it's blue and non uv, the end one will be a uv cathode and uv reactive water.

    the flash really kills the blue glow of the cathode but you can see that there's water in there by the refelctions and few bubbles
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    from the side it don't look half bad and the angle of the divider should let the bubbles roll out. sorry a few of them came a bit blurry, my camera seems to have an issue with macro mode.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. ouija

    ouija Trust me, I am doctor!

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    Superb! I love that idea :rock:
     
  13. t.n.

    t.n. What's a Dremel?

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    i like your window design
     
  14. n0ize

    n0ize What's a Dremel?

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    ohhh the window isn't done yet :) i have yet to etch it. theres a few tests i want to do first. i may do a double etch. i have some uv diodes on the way and a spare barbones white ccfl. with some of my scrap plexi i'm going to try a etch using uv to coat some of it and not the rest and thenlight it up with the white cathode too. depending on how that looks i may go with that. or put a second piece of plexy over part of it and etch that (may look really bad though) either way it will be a neat testing, that i won't be able to do until the 6th when my stuff comes in :miffed:
     
  15. olv

    olv he's so bright

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    Nice work so far. looking forward to seeing all the watery goodness :)

    Subscribed :thumb:
     
  16. Gladius

    Gladius What's a Dremel?

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    nice idea wif the water... cant wait to see it wif the uv reactive water and uv cathode. :thumb:
     
  17. Pistol

    Pistol Guest

    So...the cold cathode is submersed in water?
     
  18. piloux

    piloux What's a Dremel?

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    great idea the cathode , can t wait to see it with uv cathode an uv die in the tank :clap:
     
  19. Starbuck3733T

    Starbuck3733T Look out sugar, here it comes

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    nice reserviour, but why so many barb holes?
     
  20. n0ize

    n0ize What's a Dremel?

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    yes indeed the cathode is underwater. the water does not touch the cathode however, there is a clear plexi tube around the cathode.

    the extra barb holes were for making my life easier, and it's like what i saw on a typhoon res, only it had 4 and 4. oddly my buddies asked the same question. the three on the top are for return lines. when all my water parts get here (can't wait till the 6th) i'll lay it all out and see. but i intend to not have water passing over one component to the next.

    there are 3 parts i'm going to cool, so 3 return lines. at least thats the reasoning behind it. is there a disadvantage to useing two y spliters on a water loop? have one line split and go to my cpu and then the other split and go to my gpu and bridge?

    the 3 on the bottom would technically be outputs however i'm only going to use one of these, the other two will be blocked off. with the 3 holes it gives me choices for where that barb goes depending on the pump placement, all in effort to reduce hose bending/mangling.
     

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