Here is the datasheet for the MM5316 clock, which includes the schematics. If you want to drive a display with different voltage and current requirements like you might with your 3mm LEDs, then just buffer the outputs appropriately...
Schematic? Anyway, I want to build it using 3mm LED instead of display, and I don't want to use microcontollers, 'cause I don't know how to program them. LM8560 is much cheaper here, but the problem is multiplex display. That's the reason I wanted schematic for CanaKit CK253 or CK255.
So, just connect collectors to +Vss, bases to IC's pins and emitors to 3mm LED segments. Including resistors. I'll use 28 transistors. Right?
that typical application thing, is that a complete working nixie clock. seems so easy as i see how many chips and transistors are used normally
MM5316 doesn't have battery backup, right? Can I supply it with 50Hz generator, for more accurate time?
Which LED you suggest to use for display - 3mm or 5mm? And how much LEDs one segment should have? I'm asking this because I'm short-sighted.
Not to be mean, but it sounds like you would really benefit from a kit. There's nothing wrong with kits; they can be excellent learning tools.
Hi there, Instead of using the LM8560 which is a pain to wire up, if you are interested, I have 4 MM5375AC/N 6 digit clock chips with alarm for sale that are 50hz only, that is why I can't use them. I will sell them for $10.00 each plus actual shipping. These use standard displays so it will be easy to build a clock. I had them on ebay in November, and to my surprise, you can still see it on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7560219551 The data sheet can be seen on my website at http://www.tuberadios.com/ebay/mm5375.pdf PS: My wife took over my ebay id selling dolls, its not me, I swear! Regards, Sal Brisindi http://www.tuberadios.com email: salb203@optonline.net
Does anyone have a pinout schematic of the LED module? im trying to mod my alarm clock (ie. rip out the guts and replace it with a microcontroller), only prob ive had is figuring out the pin outs, all of the outputs from the LM8560 are fine (ie. the a&b etc led segments), but some of the pins im not sure of, ie. it appears to be clocked of mains 50Hz, but this goes into like 3 pins... and there are some other pins im not sure of, it may just be the way they have wired it up, but at the very least id like to know which one is clock (ie. for the duplex led decoding). thanks.
There must be something subliminal in the 8560 datasheet that drives people mad... Here's what I'd do... sell the display to Stefan K so he can finally use his 8560 chip, and take those funds and purchase a normal surplus display that will be much easier to work with for whatever project you intend. If you will be driving the display with your own ucontroller, the original clockrate is irrelevant. All you need to know is how to light up each segment, which should be relatively easy to do by the datasheet and/or applying power to the pins. There is no 'clock' input; it seems pretty straightforward that there are simply two common cathodes that divide the display in half.
How do you mean there is no clock input? you are driving two LEDs from the one pin, and so half of your output sqaurewave to the pin is for one LED, and the other half for the second LED, but wont it need a clock to determine which half the signal is for which LED? or is there something im missing with the two common cathodes, and the cycle 1 & cycle 2 on the data sheet (that part I didnt really get)... So.. say segments a & f are on the same pin, is one of the cathodes for a, and the other for f? that would make more sense...
Exactly. It's not clear from the literature I've seen what segments are controlled by which cathode, but that should be easy to figure out with a continuity tester or such, just be sure to keep the current limited to prevent any damage to the led's. So, to drive the display you'll need to turn on one cathode, then the relevent segments. Include some blanking time to prevent slurring, then switch cathodes and repeat. Back and forth, at whatever clockrate you desire, but presumably fast enough to provide persistance of vision to avoid flickering. Basically this arrangement trades reduction of wiring for complextity of operation. [edit] I'm sure this could be done, but I'm wondering if the time required to work out the operation and programming of such an oddball display is really worth it, considering normal displays can be had so cheaply. There are some things that are fun to do for the sense of accomplishment, but in my mind this wouldn't be one of them. I'd be looking a the bigger picture of the completed project as a whole. If there were some unique redeeming feature of the display I'd consider it, but really this display looks just like a million others that are normally wired.
