Displays Looking for a display mainly for movies (more info inside)

Hello to all the community,

Firstly I would like to apologize in advance for any gramatical, orthographical, etc. issues as English is my second language. So, let's introduce myself: I'm Javier from Madrid (Spain), so thank you to pay this thread a watch. Any input will be highly welcomed !

Secondly, I would like to pay respect and give a big thank you to 3lusive, Good Bytes and Pookeyhead for their very usefull and instructive post and guides I've read so far (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, etc). So, shall we begin with 'my lil' story'?

Short story: looking for a 24" or 27", 16:10 IPS display, no photo editing mainly for movies.

Long story: please read at your own risk:

I own an almost-dying Samsung Syncmaster T220HD which went a little bit crazy few months ago (but let's discuss this later or just PM / mail me if you know if this is a common issue that can be fixed just by replacing the 'main board' of the display). So, I went off the road of searching a 24-27" 16:10 display and I found myself with these questions and answers:

Which technology / state of the art of the displays should I pick if I wanna see the display laying on my bed (i.e. watching a movie while trying to get some sleep)? Well, after researching about viewing angles (in my previous display I've seen the shift of colors but thought... ok, at least in 2008 was a great choice for TV + display + connectivity + image quality + money), the answer was clear: IPS.

Do I mind having no TV at the display? Not at all.... after researching a lil' bit more, I've discovered USB-powered TV-tuners, which are fine for the 30 min - 1hr I watch the TV actually.

How do you plan to use the monitor?
1) No photo editing (no reflex-style / raw images, few weeks ago I've upgraded from a (brick) Sony DSC-P93A to a Canon Ixus 230HS, send me a PM of why I've choosen this camera if you have the curiosity) and no photo editing in the near (~5 years) future. I just try to take the best shot and that's it (like formerly was with the analog ones which I've also owned one), so I don't plan even consider to edit photos to improve the picture that has been taken.
2) Movies / series in hd content (1080p / 720p) from my htpc. I don't mind about the bars but I like to have a full 16:10 desktop to work with (and also in casual - middle gaming, to play with).

Upgrade from 22" 1680x1050 16:10 to 24"(1920x1200) -27" (2560x1600). Which one: 24" or 27"? Well.... for a perspective of upscaling / downscaling process of the image of the HD content, I would prefer 1920x1200 (24") as the pc has only to upscale 720p content, but I'm open to 27" displays (please, give some reasons from the perspective of image quality and upscaling process -which I know the basics and some digital signal knowledge).

Short story (continued): e-IPS or high grade h-IPS? That was explained in some of the links I've posted at the beginning of this thread, and the answer is h-IPS. So, that will mean Dell U2410, but I will mainly use it in the sRGB, not in the wide gamut (AdobeRGB). I've read to Goodbytes or Pookeyhead maybe? to switch between the two modes or something and a discussion about using 99% of the time the sRGB on the U2410. Also, the cons of the CCFL (heat) and pros (better colors in general) vs W-LED were stated and summed-up by Goodbytes in the links I've posted at the beginning.

So.... my questions to make my mind up to a conclusion and a decision to buy a new display are:

- If I buy an AdobeRGB monitor for h-IPS => better image quality (in general) but I don't do any photo editing, is it worth? I mean, it's good to also have a true 8 bit display (not simulated 6 bit like U2414M) but really is it worth to stick to sRGB on a U2410 just for the quality of the image? The HTPC is a intel dual core e5300 + Zotac 9300 Wifi (VGA, DVI, HDMI) which can handle (GPU a lil' overclocked, I've tested its maximums, birds video passed no issues) XBMC + render inside XBMC. MadVR + LAV + etc (which my htpc couldn't handle) will be a secondary option to upgrade if the (far much better) display chosen over DVI on a amd 5770 (gaming pc, yeah a lil' old + e8500) will improve enough the image quality over HD content (I've read that the only real improves you will see are in not-so-well enconded videos or DvD ripped quality, so I can do some subjective testing). In any case for display port, I'll have to upgrade my hardware, so that's not a real option having DVI Dual Link and a proper DVI cable which really supports up to 2560 x whatever (which I already have).

- If I only work at sRGB, W-LED gives better darker scenes than CCFL, but CCFL gives overall better color quality. So, the difference in sRGB between e-IPS + W-LED of the U2414M vs h-IPS + CCFL justify the decision of the U2410 over the U2414M?

- Is out there an alternative to U2410 of h-IPS + CCFL / W-LED / whatever that gives a good image and color quality? I'm open to your suggestions

So yes, in the end the decision 'stick' in someway to U2414M vs U2410 (or any other 24" alternative or a 27" one).

Thanks for reading or just looking by and thanks a lot for answering

Javier

 

The U2711 is 16:9, but is larger. If you play games, you will need a powerful GPU to run games natively due to the high resolution.

What you really need, is RGB LED backlight monitor, as you'll get a nice white, and not have (or well don't expect top have) wide gamut. As those on the extreme high end monitors, you have to compromise.

Setting the U2410 monitor to sRGB won't magically solve the gamut problem. You will need to color load profiles in your photo editing software and in Windows (best to use a color calibrator to get the best profile), and Windows interface will be less vivid, if you will. Not terribly bad, but noticeable. I am sure that if you have the patience you can adjust the color
of the monitor color settings (it has plenty of options: Hue control for R, G, B,. C, M, Y. Saturation control for R, G, B, C, M, Y. Offset control for R, G, B, and Gain control for R, G, B)

Check out PookeyHead posts, if you haven't already on how to set things up properly with a wide gamut monitor. I am no professional.

Also you MUST remember, that the Dell U series monitors are NOT PROFESSIONAL monitors, so expect limitations, and based on your standards, these limitation might be small or huge.
If color accuracy is important, then I would have to recommend against this monitor. My knowledge reflect the consumer market of monitors, and my suggestions, and recommendations ONLY considers Mr./Ms Everyone, not professionals.

My goal is to help people get a better monitor than what they have, and fit their needs in term of features, not getting the best of the best of the best that can easily cost 2, 3, or even 4 times their computer, or the price of their car. If you come from a descent professional monitor, then anything from the consumer market, unless your monitor is really old, I assume it will be probably a downgrade. Anyway just wanting to keep things clear, and consider them based on what I say.

So it comes down to:
-> U2410 but wide gamut, and some adjustment needs to be done to have it go as sRGB. Might be time consuming, and results might be limited. Contrast isn't as good as the U2412, but you do have more input, features, and true 8-bit panel.

-> U2412, standard gamut, but white LED's. So, expect a slight blue tint on colors, especially visible on white and grays. It will be like the Apple display.. just not glossy... and well smaller, and lower resolution. Lower price, better contrast than the U2410, but have less features, less color adjustment control, and a 6-bit panel.


You have to decide which feature is more important, which you can live with or without.

 

The problem with using a wide gamut screen like the U2410 is that with inputs like a blue ray over HDMI or a TV signal, is that it is not colour managed, and the sRGB, PAL or NTSC colour source will be "expanded" to fit the Adobe 1998 colour space the screen natively works in. This will result in exaggerated colours. If you use a U2410 for watching TV or Blu Ray, I highly recommend using it in the sRGB mode.

In fact, the same can be said for games. Again, not colour managed, so they will appear over saturated on a wide gamut panel. Perhaps not a major issue here now, as games are not reality.



The fact is though, if you do no photo editing, there really is NO point in using a wide gamut screen, as the only practical use for a wide gamut screen is for photo editing, graphics and pre press work, where accurate colours are a must. General use, web browsing, gaming and watching tv/movies is in no way enhanced by a wide gamut screen. In fact, it's made worse, as usually the colours are over saturated as none of these sources will be colour managed.

I know Goodbytes will recommend a Dell to you .. however, you have absolutely zero use for a wide gamut panel unless you want to accurately edit photos.... AND EVEN THEN, it will only really be of use to you if you understand how to use it properly (understanding ICC and ICM profiling and colour work flow).

The u2410 is a superb screen.... but again I question why so many manufacturers are pushing wide gamut screens at a mainstream market, when most people will not understand the issues, and wind up playing games in native wide gamut mode with the wrong colours, or watching TV with over saturated colours etc.

If you buy a U2410, just use it in sRGB mode. You are not missing out on anything.. you are not "wasting" your monitor's potential... you are merely ensuring accurate rendition of non managed sources. Adobe RGB1998, and other wide gamut colour spaces are designed for Photo and pre press work where a wider range of colours is required. Everything you will watch on TV or every game you play is DESIGNED and PRODUCED in sRGB so does not NEED a wide gamut panel.... and using one will result in the wrong colours.




If concerned, you can limit your output to sRGB width by choosing sRGB as your default colour space in Windows.....


or.. buy a really good sRGB IPS panel and avoid any potential issues, as again.. wide gamut is only needed for photo editing, graphics and pre press work. Nothing else requires it, and using wide gamut with anything else offers zero advantage.


As Goodbytes says, you can't just set the U2410 to sRGB. You also need to make sure the default colour profile is set to sRGB. If it is, then all is well. Unless you are wanting to Photo edit etc, colour calibrating the screen is not really necessary (unless you merely want to ensure accuracy for the sake of it) as your main uses are watching TV only.


Personally, for TV watching and movies watching, I'd go with a sRGB mnitor, and probably a s-PVA one, but they are very, very rare now. There's a reason most LCD TVs use S-PVA - and that's string black levels and good black viewing angles. One issue with IPS is blacks go grey when you look at them from the side, above, or below. So while the COLOUR is great from wide viewing angles, the blacks are not. They "glow" when viewed off axis. Go to You Tube and search IPS glow. No avoiding this however, as you can't get hold of a S-PVA computer monitor any more. I think my Eizo was the last of the breed in the professional arena.

Goodbytes mentioned the Windows interface looking washed out with sRGB, but he's wrong. That's accurate. It will be exaggerated in wide gamut unless properly colour managed. MS wouldn't have designed Windows to work in anything other than a sRGB colourspace. Using an un-calibrated wide gamut screen will exaggerate colours.




Anything using Samsung's PLS panels such as the Samsung S27A850D will be a good "TV" though, although build quality is a little low.

I think an ideal screen for you would be the HP ZR2440W.

For the uses you are putting it to, 6bit with AFRC vs. 8bit is not such a big deal.

 

Thanks Good Bytes & Pookeyhead for the inputs. Rep++.

About my standars, I'm no professional but I would like to upgrade from my almost-broken T220HD (TN tech) to a high quality monitor (only for PC/HPTC, no TV), in particular an IPS which I think this tech would satisfy my needs (first post). Although,

So I have no alternative tech to choose, so I have to go with IPS. By the way, TN switch all colors as I sayed on my first post, so an IPS display will be a great improve.

Ok, so it comes to HP ZR2440W or Dell 2412M (or another else you can recommend me).

Both HP and Dell are e-IPS + W-LED and for what I am seeing among another displays, h-IPS is only used in AdobeRGB-monitors (wide gamut ones) with the exception of the new U2713HM (I suppose h-IPS > ah-IPS > e-IPS).... so I'm afraid I have to go with e-IPS + W-LED (asumming glow and rest issues you have mentioned Pookeyhead with IPS tech. + the drawbacks of 'economy'-IPS panel vs high-IPS (better quality panel) ).

Let's talk about money & warranty. My experience with nowadays electronics products is that they are designed to maximize the sells, what implies designin for working as long as X time, as X time is the warranty (what have happenned to my T220 HD, i.e). You know, sell billions of units at a low price and your benefits will raise (and for this reason, I only pay attention on the model of a product, not the brand of it since around 10 years. Also it helps to have studied and hoping to finish next course an electronics-degree):

- both Dell and HP has a 3-year warranty (hm...ok)
- U2412M is priced ~260 € and ZR2440W ~370€, so I'm a little afraid about spending +100€ and have a dead monitor of ~400€ after 3 years.

So, if anyone will not suggest any other display, the versus between the two focuses in these points:

- price & warranty: how does the HP vs the Dell age?

(one point for the Dell, for its price)

- price and color quality: is it worth to pay the extra 100 € of the HP? As far as I have read on the reviews, the HP comes with a better calibration (2.0 delta vs 3.2). My mind says that 2.0 > 3.2 in color quality because I've adjusted some old big analog tube monitors some years ago, but is this delta showed linear or logarithmic?

(one or two point/s for the HP)

- movies (main differences) (I'm not so worried about the responsiveness of a fps pro gamer, I can live with it):

HP: No 'Movie' preset mode available at all so you would need to use one of the other defined colour temperature modes or your user calibrated custom mode.
Dell: 'Movie' preset mode is available from the preset menu. This made the image a bit cooler than the standard mode and provided access to the DCR mode (which as we've said, does nothing).

(one point for the Dell)

HP: Very good pixel responsiveness which should be able to handle fast moving scenes in movies without issue.
Dell: Good pixel responsiveness which should be able to handle fast moving scenes in movies without issue

(half to one point for the HP)

- connectivity: well... the only use I have for the VGA port is to connect the Play Station 2 on it with a VGA-Box, so in someway not having it is a disadvantage.

(half point for the Dell)

So Pookeyhead and Good Bytes (and rest of readers):

- Does it really worth to invest those +100€ on the HP?
- Have I forgotten some other points that I should have to pay special attention to?
- Another 24" IPS sRGB 16:10 candidates to the comparison list you could suggest?

Many thanks for your help!

Javier

PS: I've noticed the 'What's a Dremel?' tag under my nickname....well.... if anyone knows Bill Owen from MNPcTech, just ask about me (and yes, I've a lot of mod-work pending )

 

Then I'd get the Dell if the price of the HP is a little high for you.

The HP does seem a better monitor for colour calibration out of the box, but remember, if you are not doing critical work, it doesn't really matter, and particularly when watching movies, it's all subjective anyway. If it bothers you, at a later date, you could always pick up a colorimeter like the Spyder 3 Pro off ebay.

So far as I'm aware, the TFT Central tests will be linear. Blue Eye Pro delivers two results: dE (sometimes known as dE76) and dE94. There are explanations between methods on Wiki. Both are linear measurements. Here's an example of a full report from my screen. It's far more detailed that the short versions pasted up on TFT Central and others.

Movie Preset is a gimmick anyway. It just changes the gamma curve to make it look punchier (and probably an attempt to lower black levels). Accurate is accurate. I see no reason for any manufacturer to add a movie mode. If the screen offers an accurate and flat response, then you are seeing the movie as the director intended you to see it. Why would you want a "movie" preset to mess with that?

Who says cooler is correct for movies? LOL Surely, seeing it as the director intended is the most desirable option?

No.. really, it's not. Movie preset mode is a gimmick.

It's really down to your budget. If you will struggle to raise the funds for the HP, then I'm pretty damned sure you will still be just as happy with the Dell. I'm of the opinion however, that one should buy the best monitor possible, as after all, that's the part you interfece with the most.

 

Personally, now that you mentioned that you have a PlayStation
I would go with the U2410,. because you have all the inputs you can possible want (HDMI, Component, Composite, VGA, DisplayPort, 2x DVI), plus you don't have the downsides of the e-IPS panel. I highly doubt, that in your case, a wide gamut will affect you, as it doesn't affect people here using the U2410 or the U2711 monitor. Also response time is the better than the HP and U2412.

The down side, would be, as previously mentioned, not as good contrast ratio for your movies.

 

Those were some reasons I decided to ask for your help, Pookey, etc. U2410 h-IPS, YPbPr BUT Wide Gamut (and the cons stated for sRGB).

Thanks Pookey for the dE explanation & detailed report . It's enjoyable learning a new thing everyday (hoping to not forget the lesson learned).

About 'movie gimmick' I understand & share your point of view, mainly because the same happens to me listening to music (happy owner since 4 months of a Denon DM-38 DAB -great price at amazon.co.uk for ~350€). Many thanks for your explanation.

So... after all I think I will buy a HP ZR2440W because I also share your last point:

with this box (L&R audio connected to Denon), which results in ~370-380€ for the display + < 40€ for the box that is almost the same price-point as Dell U2410. Also, GoodBytes comments on the last input,

and in the end (one point that will decide in case of a match), I really enjoy darker scenes and night ones (like the ones showed for example at the film Drive which I recommend), so I will go for the HP ZR2440W over the U2410.

So, what holds me to buy the HP ZR2440W? The warranty issues, RMA, etc which if you don't mind, I have to ask you about:

- If I buy directly from HP instead of, i.e, amazon.es (better price than co.uk or .com), should I have the option to negotiate the price or have the option to pay for an extended warranty or have any other advantages over buying it from a retailer?

- Is the process of RMA better doing it directly with HP (I have noramally done it with the shop for 2 year warranty parts)? I've read in other forums from an user who RMA directly to HP as he/she buyed it directly from HP and a guy from HP came directly to his/her house to pick and replace the old monitor.

Many thanks for the help

Javier

 

Sorry I can't comment on HP, beside their consumer service for laptop and desktop here in North America, which is: you pay shipping to them, takes about a half a month to a month wait, and your product, repaired is returned (I expect it will be a refurbished for monitors, as always).
So I don't know how it is for monitors, beside the fact that you'll get a refurbished product.

 

Ok... I've done a lil' more of research and I found these points out:

1) the glow of the IPS tech on ZR2440W and U2412M is almost the same (maybe the HP is a lil' better):

Dell U2412M
HP ZR2440W

About the 'bleeding' issue on U2412M I've read so far, I think it is related to the IPS glow

2) viewing angles: I've found a 'hard' review on HP ZR2440W which says:

'Viewing Angle Disappointing: First thing: the viewing angle is tons, tons better than TN panels. However, we observed that brightness dropped at about 45 degrees off center horizontally, and at just a few inches vertically when at normal viewing distance from the monitor (arm¿s length). With our S-PVA panel, we could literally move to the most extreme horizontal angle and still see the image on screen perfectly, with no loss of brightness. At a greater distance with the ZR2440w, the viewing angle improved. The hallmark of the IPS panel is its superior viewing angles: but the ZR2440w is less than superior in our testing.'

So, I've just come up with this two videos on youtube:

Viewing angles ZR2440W
Viewing angles U2412M

and I haven't found that issue that the review describes.

3) common cons (based on user experience and reviews) of each monitor:

a) on U2412M, they say that you'll find on the right bottom corner some 'greenish-yellow' colors and a lil' bit more of this thing around the other corners but less noticeable.

b) at the 'hard review' (video of it) of the ZR2440W, they focus on the gradient thing:

'Banding in Color Spectrum: We ran a small utility called CheckeMON with the ZR2440w side-by-side with a S-PVA-based monitor and a TN-based monitor showing the Color Spectrum pattern. Both the S-PVA and TN monitors showed a perfectly smooth color gradient on the screen. The ZR2440w showed a pattern of faint horizontal banding through the gradient. The bands were slightly lighter and darker, in an alternating fashion. The pattern was neither dithering nor moire. It also was not related to the video card since it appeared when we switched inputs and computers (4 different sources on 3 different computers). The banding occurred on both DVI and HDMI inputs.

While typical photographs, graphics, and even productivity apps have many elements on the screen that mask the appearance of these bands, any photos or graphics with large areas of color gradients are susceptible to showing the bands. Potentially, one could be attempting to correct a problem that doesn't even exist in the source graphic, but instead is being created by the monitor. A monitor targeted to graphics pros must represent the image truly and as exactly as possible, and not introduce its own artifacts.'

Any suggestions / inputs about a) and b)?

4) important pro on the ZR2440W side: 1:1 scaler (a good pro if attached to a console, which will be my case on the PS2 + a box to convert YPbPr to HDMI (ZR2440W) or VGA (U2412M) )

5) price drop in an offer at amazon.es: 332,5€ (~40€ less than average price)

So, what really holds me now from buying the HP is the banding color in spectrum issue, which as is described maybe I won't notice (or just it is whay I think from what I've seen on the videos at youtube, providing the cam recorder isn't the same as the real-eye viewing experience). What do you think about it?

Many thanks for all the help provided Good Bytes & Pookeyhead

Javier

 

Banding: If you listed your primary use as serious graphics or photography, then I'd be concerned, but watching media you'll probably never notice. Artefacts like this are usually only noticeable on artificial gradients, especially in applications like Illustrator.

If you think you'll be doing a lot of that, then reconsider, but for watching movies? Nah.. you'll never notice. On a pure, mathematically linear gradient you'll see it, but add even a slight amount of noise to such a gradient and the banding will disappear. As the signal from even a well produced DVD will have all manner of stuff going on (slight MPEG artefacts, and even the grain of the film stock the movie was shot on) it's unlikely this will present a problem.

It clearly bothers you though, so perhaps the Dell is the screen for you. It does have better inputs for media use.

As for viewing angle, will you be at such extreme angles to it?

There will always be something to bug you unless you start spending great deals of money. The Dell does have the patchiness issue with very dark scenes to contend with. Personally, I'd find that a little more annoying than some banding that you may only notice once in a blue moon. However.. wallpapers like this on your desktop will show the banding up quite badly.

 

To be honest and doing a direct comparison between HP ZR2440W and Dell 2412M, the HP seems to bug me less / far less than the Dell. About the inputs, they are just the same but for VGA (Dell) <-> HDMI (HP).

So, I've come across today with this review. I think in someway is a little better / more complete than the one at TFT Central for the image quality perspective, which I think it answers very accurate to my questions / curiosities / things to be worried about:

1) About banding (link about explaining what it is at Prad review, they say the following:

'Subjectively, the image quality on the HP ZR2440w is convincing from the outset. The matte, 24 inch IPS panel with its 16:10 aspect ratio displays a full image. Black image content is displayed very darkly and thus {great pro for me}, the display appears to be rich in contrast. In the factory settings, "Standard (6500K)" image mode is selected, in which the luminance regulator is set to 90 and the contrast to 80 percent. At first glance, it is clear that the HP ZR2440w no longer displays an extremely bright image like its predecessor {also pro for me}and the display has also become considerably warmer.

Even in the factory settings, the HP ZR2440w has almost no problems displaying colour gradients. Banding can only be seen occasionally and dithering is only noticed when one looks very closely in dark colour transitions. In this image mode, the luminance and contrast can be changed, but the RGB regulators are only available in the "User defined (RGB)" image mode. The contrast setting of 80 represents a good choice in the factory settings and there is no need to change this value.

The monitor behaves quite differently in the "User defined (RGB)" image mode, since 80 is also selected as the contrast setting in this mode, but in this case, the value is much too high, which leads to a massive loss of white levels. In our test image, no white values are visible apart from white value 200. Furthermore, the display is unnaturally yellowish and colour gradients demonstrate pronounced banding in places. Therefore, we recommend that you reduce the contrast urgently to 67 or 66 in this setting. Then, the yellow tinge will disappear and colour gradients will be displayed cleanly.'

{Any inputs / suggestions about the two previous statements?}

2) About DeltaE from TFT Central HP ZR24W review:

'If DeltaE >3, the color displayed is significantly different from the theoretical one, meaning that the difference will be perceptible to the viewer.
If DeltaE <2, LaCie considers the calibration a success; there remains a slight difference, but it is barely undetectable.
If DeltaE < 1, the color fidelity is excellent.'

Dell U2412M has a DeltaE of ~3,2 out of the box and HP ZR2440W ~2 => as we have discussed before, maybe I won't notice, but just in case the ZR2440W clearly wins.

3) About interpolation and 1:1 scaler, at Prad review vs input about the scaler of the U2412M => I think HP ZR2440W clearly wins (although the lack of more in depth info about U2412M scaler).

Not at all. In my bedroom I have this configuration of worktop / bed with the pc on the corner of the worktop (where the maybe cash machine is placed). When I lay at bed, my head is at the same height of the worktop. Then, I move the display near the corner of the worktop to have a direct contact sight with the display at a distace of 1.7-1.8m, which places my vision in a more or less -10º from the center of the display. In the rest of cases (just me in front of the Pc or sitting with some friends at bed with some cushions and dsplay moved playing PS2), the display is in line with the sight. Talking about moving, I have the idea of VESA-mounting with an arm the display to move it better, so maybe it would be another pro for the VESA-mounting ability of the HP ZR2440W.

So, as you can see I'm pretty convinced going for the HP ZR2440W (specially with the offer of 40€ less, which is more or less the cost of a box to plug the PS2 to the display) and if in someway I can more or less fix the banding issue (just in case) as described on the review I posted at the beginning of the input, then the purchase of the HP ZR2440W will be a no brainer for me Although I can fix it, I'm highly tempted to buy it right now from amazon

Many thanks for your help!

Javier

 

I fully agree with PookeyHead.
In this price range, expect issues like you are seeing. While paying more will get you less of it, you'll need to cash out some serious money, by going with professional grade monitors, to not have them.. and even then.

 

Actually for the Dell you have DisplayPort, it's backward compatible down to HDMI and DVI.
If I recall correctly the Dell has a scaler system. Now if you want 1:1 pixel mapping and a good scaler, than it would be the Dell U2410.

 

I agree completely... which is why I initially recommended it. The banding issue is something some arsy reviewer has picked up on, and actually, perhaps rightly so... but not in the case of the OP, who's main use is media watching. The only people who will have an issue with the HP screen are those who do a great deal of illustrator work, as vector graphics often have very linear gradients, whereas in real life images, that very, very rarely happens.

My money would still be on the HP screen, but as I said before, the Dell is cheaper, and may have less of a banding issue, but it lacks the uniformity of display.

Delta E calibration out of the box is not THAT much of a big deal. Anyone colour critical would calibrate it anyway, and anyone who is colour critical and thinks they can buy a monitor and have accuracy out of the box is sadly mistaken. For watching movies, browsing, gaming etc, colour can be a highly subjective thing. Some people HATE my monitor even though it's always supremely calibrated. Most say it's too cold, but that's just because they are used to their screens, and most monitors are pre-calibrated a little on the warm side because a bunch of mostly useless focus groups have informed them that people prefer that.

Clearly though, the HP is a better screen.. but you pay more for it. The Dell is pretty much as good in most respects, and is cheaper.

I think the OP should let his budget decide. Either screen will do exactly what he wants.

 

Or there is the option of one of those Korean IPS panels from ebay?

 

It doesn't even have an adjustable, glossy, no OSD menu, external propitiatory power adapter, no warranty (you are not going to ship it back to Korea, trust me) and only has 1 input to start with. So already it's not even close to the radar of the OP, and it doesn't even reach my list of consideration to suggest to people.

I would suggest what PookeyHead is saying, Get the HP if your budget can, as I think it will fit better your needs, or the Dell if you can't. Both are great screen for the budget, and has descent quality, good warranty for a consumer level product, and will give you a great experience.

 

@Goodbytes, refered to input video signal:

HP ZR2440W: 1 DisplayPort in; 1 DVI-D; 1 HDMI
Dell U2412M: 1 Digital Visual Interface connectors (DVI-D) with HDCP, 1 DisplayPort(DP), 1 Video Graphics Array (VGA)

maybe I haven't expressed myself correctly (sorry in advance) on my last post with

About the scaler, imho for what I know (which is the basics) of digital signals & procesing, filters analog / digital, etc, I think the scaler of the HP ZR2440W is equal or a little bit better than the one at Dell U2410 (and of what I have read, better than the U2412M. A pity not to have found a more in depth review about the scaler of the U2412M, just the results at TFT Central).

@Goodbytes, Pookeyhead, refered to issues / things that will bug a buyer at this price range and higher budgets (S-PVA, i.e): I agree completely. I've done a light search yesterday about S-PVA just for curiosity of prices (and if there is still someone available) and it was a 22" for NEC P221W for ~470€ (shop at Spain). So ~500€ yes... it is a little out of my budget (not to mention another 24" S-PVA for ~1000€ which I can't rember right now).

@Pookey, about your answer about banding an recommendation of the HP, ok .

About DeltaE, ok. More wisdom to my back about this topic to carry on

About 'color temps' at your display, I also tend to like more 'colder' (blue) lights or just white, not yellow/greener ones. Why? Because if I am not mistaken, the natural light is in someway 'blue' (talking about the colore temperature) and in my experience (reading some parts of books of the degree at pdf), blue and white light is what causes less strain in your eyes for long periods in front of the Pc. Actually, I have 'blue' (maybe 6500K?) light bulbs and a little white spot of light.

[Offtopic]: about that 'bunch of people' you refer to, they sayed that 128 Kbps for mp3 was the average-standard quality thing to have Obviously they haven't listened a song with a clear (for example) piano part (i.e, Rob Dougan - Clubbed to Death) in a CD with average speakers (and I consider my ability to listen details in music more on the mainstream segment).

@Parge, many thanks for stopping by and dropping your input , but....

Good Bytes, Pookeyhead, Parge and rest of people reading this thread (thanks for watching), I've finally purchased the HP ZR2440W for ~336 € (delivery included, 3€) the last unit at this price at amazon.es. It will arive on maybe Friday or next week, so let me know which aspects or tests should I run and I'll make a little review of it (or at least, try to without screwing it too much )

Anyway, many thanks for all the help and info provided !

Javier

 

This makes my point nicely. You say you "prefer" cooler light, but being accurate is not about what you prefer, it's about being accurate. I let LaCie Blue Eye Pro decide what's accurate, as I, a lowly human being am woefully ill equipped to decide. If I look at my screen at sunset (my room faces south west) my screen looks cool and slightly green, on a cloudy say it looks warm and yellow, on a clear day at noon it looks about right. You colour acuity is constantly changing as the ambient conditions change, which is why if I'm doing anything colour critical, I will only work during midday conditions, or night (or close the blinds entirely). Ideally if you want total accuracy and perfect colour acuity, you need controlled artificial balanced lighting, grey walls.. the whole works.. but at home, no one would go to these extremes (although I'm considering it )

Set your screen to what works for you if all you are doing is browsing, watching movies and TV and gaming. Only worry about accuracy if you are working on images or artwork that will be sent to a printer... or you just want accuracy for the sake of it.

As for colour temperature: "White" as we perceive it is different from sunlight. Sunlight itself at noon on a clear day is around 5600K. That doesn't mean daylight is 5600K though. Daylight, or white is regarded as being an aggregate of the sunlight, and scattered light from the sky, and is usually considered to be 6500K. This is the temp most graphics studios, digital darkrooms etc will accept as neutral white, and is referred to as D65. However, a north facing room on a clear day can have light as high as 10,000K coming through the windows. Some repro and design studios prefer this cooler light as it actually aids colour matching of reflected light colour from fabrics and papers. You can actually buy "northlight" balanced lamps. I have one in my kitchen, just because I like it. It's a T8 fluorescent tube made by Osram called "Skywhite". A similar lamp by Osram they no longer produce was called "Color Matching" for that reason - both these lamps are 8900K. However, for transmissive colour (a monitor screen) D65 is preferred.

In my study where my main rig is for digital imaging I have 6500K CCFL lighting. Ideally, I should have 6500K continuous lighting, but that's getting hard to buy now, but visually it's effectively daylight. Under the room light the monitor appear utterly neutral, but during the day when the ambient conditions change, so does my perception of my screen's neutrality, which is why setting a monitor visually is next to useless other than for personal preference... and only then if you are confident the ambient light is actually around 6500K. If you are setting white balance visually, set it on a sunny day around lunchtime.

Basically.... if you prefer cool, set it so it's cool. However, for accuracy, correct is correct as measured by a colorimeter regardless of how it appears to you, as that will change depending upon the ambient conditions.

I hope you are pleased with your purchase. I'm sure you will be. Enjoy!

 

You are very welcomejavitxi, I hope you'll enjoy this new monitor.
Please tell came back with your first impressions, and tell us if you enjoy this monitor or not.

 

Quick input 'cos I'll have several exams of my career starting next Monday. Display arrived on Friday and this is the album with some photos (I have to put them in order, comment, etc):

http://s934.photobucket.com/albums/ad183/javitxi/HP ZR2440W/

Right now, I cannot see dead /stuck pixels or any issues. Watched one HD 720p film (Blade Runner, 3rd time viewing it), hope to watch soon again Drive & others to compare (and also read the manual, check the info at the cd provided, etc). Hope to properly test the display at late September, but with this image on screen on a quick test, it doesn't seem to be banding. I'm sitting now at a distance of ~50 cm from the monitor and if I only put the image at the display (windows 7 photo viewer, slideshow mode), yes, I hardly (only a little bit) notice the banding but (hope to make & upload some macro-photo), if I zoom into the image to the max to see the resolution of it (at windows 7 photo viewer), I can see clearly the bands....so I don't know if it is caused by the display itself when I zoom in to the max or it is caused by the photo itslef. I think that I have to make at Photoshop or something a gradient of 1920 pixels from white to black at max resolution to compare. Any suggestions about this issue? Could you check the image at your display and zoom in? Also I have a led Samsung monitor around (Samsung Syncmaster s22b300) to check it and my almost dying T220HD.

Many thanks!

Javier

PS: probably, I'll do the review in a separate post