what can I do with the standard? nah, I wanna have as much electronics as possible in my PC, so I wanna have a seperate card for mp3 and a seperate PCB for baybus, this way it'll be full of stuff!
And, 2 PCI cards alo use up 2 IRQs. If you put it all on one, you only "waste" 1 IRQ, instead of 2. I read somewhere, that you can etch your board in any color you want! I'll do bl00 Signing out...
Do they do UV bl00? If you use one card, you could probibly only need one pic, and put a ribbon cable to your baybus! Signing out...
okay, I'm like trying to get what is in that document, taking notes and stuff... I hope we can do it only with this document as I don't have the money to spend $150 on the PCI specification ...
Yep, I don't have that much floating around either! I think that all the pinouts in that document you provided will sufise for most of my major design problems, but I am afraid that you will need to figure out how to wire everything to the pic, and the pic to the PCI bus. Signing out...
http://www.cypress.com/products/datasheet.cfm?partnum=CY7C09449PV-AC This is a chip that allows you to interface with the pci bus directly. I don't like it, though. Looks hard to use
okay, everytime I figure out something I'll post it here, so we have like a list of stuff that is usefull, and then we can create the schematic. When the board is in the slot, pin PRSNT (present) 1 must be open and PRSNT 2 must be ground. This way we get 15W maximum. There are also other configurations, like ground - ground (7.5W) or ground - open (25W) but I think 15W is enough for us, right? PRSNT 1 = pin 9 on side B PRSNT 2 = pin 11 on side B
15 W, is that all? Nah, 15W is just fine, it is actulay what I was thinking. My dad says that pci is very complex, and difficult to use (he is an electronic engineer). He doesn't have the spec, though Signing out...
it wouldn't be a challenge if it was easy would it... okay, the PCI has 32 data/address pins, on which first the address and then 32 bits of data is ... written? Okay, this all happens when the frame goes low (if I understand correctly) and my only happen if TRDY and IRDY are high (I think) which means the receiver and the initiator is ready. I think the best way to overcome the 33Mhz problem is to find a microcontroller which works on 33Mhz or higher (preferable higher) and then use a 33Mhz oscillator.
lol, okay ... why don't you try it at 66Mhz then I make one at 33Mhz (There's a pin to change this, connect it to ground and you've got 33Mhz, open = 66Mhz)
Well, since it would be easier just to doo them all one, and mp3s are not that big, I think that we could just do them both at 33, to simplify things. Or, if you think we neeeeeeeeeeeed 66, we could do that (I don't want to have to find and figure out 2 seprate chips). So, shall we go cmos, or ttl? There are both +5 and +3.3 volt sources on the cardbus, so we could go either way (I want to know so that I can start looking for a microcontroler). BTY, what programming language do you prefer for the microcontroler? So, since you won't be using a pic for this project, are you going to do your other project much the same way (wireless LCD, rehobus, etc.)? If so, you could cut costs and do it all on the same card, using the same microcontroler, and possibly, the same software We can just get a ocilator crystal that goes at 33 mhz or above, and run with it! Signing out...
