okay i have an ASUS P5E3 mobo and i want to OC this new machine when i get it up and running and im very cautious that the chipset heatsinks will not be able to handle my................. quite possibly over zealous attempt at OCing so i want to build a custom one piece block for the chipset so i need your help how thick is the overall height of the blocks? i want to use a plexiglass top so that you can see inside and see the coolant any suggestions on how to 'glue' them together, what would you stay away from and what would you suggest? any design tips? i want to use 10mm compression fittings on said block what is the dia. of the hole that i need to make in the plexi for the threads to get a grip and to seal correctly? how do i make sure that the block will be low enough to allow the GPU to seat correctly? i do have some ideas and drawings but its all just a proto and a top view if i have left anything else out then let me know thanks for any help guys
-An O-ring or gasket sheet is the best option. Automotive RTV sealant is best if you want to glue it. Even then you have to be vigilant. Over time the copper can corrode under the seal. Honestly, I'd do a soldered brass top to avoid the problem. -Fewer screw holes needed too. -Keep the block even or lower than the pci-e slots. -Tap drilling info should be available where the tap is purchased. 1/4"BSPP needs a 11.8mm hole. -There's the tricky bit. There's thermal pad that comes in different heights, but that's not something I'd pull on a GPU. Your best bet in this situation would be to make a copy of an available block, (with a flat base,) and use the pad/paste solution they use.
ive done some searching and most of the full chipset blocks are anywhere from 10mm to 14mm so i want to use a 3mm sheet of plexi so now i just need to see what thickness of copper sheet i can get and what if i was to put some RTC in a trough that i can make in the copper then put a bead of superglue around the edge to help along with the small screws to put the 2 sheets together thanks for the info cheaps
When sourcing the copper, since you need such a small amount all the industrial producers will laugh at doing business with you. So, to get around this problem, go to ebay and look for copper that is meant for hobbys (I bought a sheet off a guy selling them to model train hobbyists). Keep in mind that you will need precise measurements of how high each chip is off the motherboard. I believe in most mobo's that the NB and SB as well as the mosfets are all different heights from the motherboard surface. Also, electrolytic (probably didnt say that right) copper is preferrable due to its strength, normal pure copper will just bend and snap quite easily and in my experience, is not really worth dealing with when making a waterblock. You will also need to contact someone in relation to getting a very long O-ring as your local hardware store will only carry up to maybe 10cm diameter ones? Thats probably all I can think up now, If you run into any more issues, PM me.
I have been playing with the idea of making molds to form custom O-rings/grommets. I'm not quite sure why an O-ring doesn't have the same problem with corrosion that silicone has. I think it has something to do with the pressure on the gasket. I wonder if it would help if the seam is filled with the fit slightly relaxed, and then torqued down when the glue is dried.
First off--it would help to know what country you're in. --------- Copper is available in whatever thickness you'd want, but I will warn you that the price of copper plate can be rather, , , , , , -astonishing. Super-glue won't work for sealing anything wet, since super-glue will dissolve in water. (okay this part I was wrong about--it is waterproof. I musta confused it with something else) O-rings are the safest way to seal anything, since they come made from different materials (resistant to different chemicals) and one that fails can easily be swapped out for another of a different/better material. If you must do this by mail-order and want it to work the first time, some materials will seal against almost anything (PTFE or Viton) but they aren't the cheapest options. Realistically, you should just forget about trying to make your own o-rings. They come already-made in pretty much any size you'd need for a PC waterblock. The nearest place to get them depends on where you live, however. ~
well i live in the states the southern tip of the hoosier state to be close i posted this thread on XS as there are alot of knowledge people over there and there is a ton! of info in the thread like kits to make my own o-rings and using cord stock to make my own o-rings also i now need the knowledge of the plexiglass gurus im trying to use as much copper as possible so that the whole thing would act like a heat sink at first i was thinking of using a sheet of 3mm plexi as the top but it was brought to my attention that tapping the 3mm would be very difficult and so im pondering bumping that up to 5mm but i would like to get the opinions of the guru's that are here
Well that's easy then. http://www.mcmaster.com/ sells cut pieces of copper and plastics, as well as o-rings in a zillion sizes. I don't know what everyone uses for clear waterblock plastic. Acrylic and polycarbonate are the main two choices for clear plastics. I would guess acrylic, but I don't know. Acrylic has better UV resistance than polycarbonate does. The Koolance website says the o-rings they sell are EPDM (the o-ring material), and mcmaster sells EPDM o-rings. For the copper, get the multipurpose stuff (alloy 110). ~
Solder the pieces together correctly and you Will Never have leaks from the blocks. Plus copper trumps acrylic visually IMHO
im beginning to get a much better idea of how im going to make my block now i just need to look at how much room i have to play with and where it is then just finish the design
