Peripherals Mechanical Keyboards

There was indeed. Thick DCS, if it were to become a thing, could even have Cherry legends from the get-go, and a flatter profile for the bottom two rows. I'm daydreaming now, I know.

 

Slightly different - so, ALL custom legends need new molds, all of them. and there is a charge for that of $45, per custom legend. If you want to have text written on a cap that has never been written on a cap, then, that is $25. To make new profile, you would need new tooling - this has been done, DSA has a stepped capslock that is owned by someone on OTD, they paid for the actual tooling to create that cap - no idea how much it cost, but we used it in Hyperfuse. I imagine, it wouldn't be cheap. but that being said, there isn't that many different sized caps, so I imagine, you would have to pay for the tooling for all the different sized caps, and then you would have to pay to legend enough caps to fill a keyboard - so it starts sounding monumentally expensive again.

There was - but like I say, that only bought the bare minimum of cherry legends, enough to do a basic ANSI layout, Bunny was a massive contributor to the original thing - but then since then, I think CtrlAlt have bought another 15 - 20 cherry legends, to complete the sets we have been running with the cherry legends. While, they are community owned - the funding didn't actually come from that many places for them. The whole cherry legends thing was a bit of a joke - as we didn't get any ownership over the legends we had made, even though, they weren't part of the original replica project.

Edit: Wow g80-3000 are flexible aren't they! mine arrived today, I have never held one in the flesh - now I get what you have all been saying! my G80-1192 weighs about 2.5 times as much, and doesn't flex at all.

 

They're pretty bendy, yeah. They do have a nice resonance though!

Anyone got a load of blue switches they don't want / are looking to trade for some used blacks?

 

Sorry for the poor attemt at a photo i dont own an actual camera

But can I be part of the club now?

Pure Pro with MX blues.



+ one of Shrop's tasty cables!

Cheers again Shrop you have been awesome!

 

You're not supposed to eat the cables.

 

F**K yea sun!

B,but it is tasty, its steel!

 

How are you liking the blues? I want me some of those. Or greens. Possibly.

 

This is my favourite thing now One day I might even get a full matching set of caps for it. weigh's over 2kg!

 

I'm loving the blue's but I'm not sure if my housemate is

 

I am really have trouble de-soldering switches from a CM Quickfire Rapid. Just bought and received an Antex XS-25W soldering iron but it is just not melting the solder on the PCB.

It melts fresh solder without any problems and I am at a loss as to what to try next.

Any advice guys?

 

How many watts is your new iron?

 

Sorry Matt my post should have said that, it's 25W.

 

They're 24 or 25 watts I think

 

I have an 18W Antex. Try melting a little fresh solder into the old solder to see if that helps to loosen it.

 

Nope, no joy.

As I am not keeping the PCB can I not just dremel the solder of the back?

 

the solder goes all the way through as well as out the back, so it holds it inside the hole as well.

those CMs have horrible ROHS solder that doesn't really behave without lots of watts, and even then it is not great. You want a 60w iron? I can send you one on monday.

 

If you could Matt I would be grateful.

I have managed to get one off but at this rate I will be pushing up the daisies long before I free them all.LOL.

Have you still got my address?

 

Let it get hotter.

 

When I desoldered my Filco with a 18W iron it took somewhere between 1 and 2 hours... Boring but had to be done...

 

I have figured out a way. I am using a small grinding wheel to remove the solder. Job done.

So cheers Matt, soldering iron not needed. Rep for the offer though.