Thanks mate! The cards will go under water, but that upgrade will happen later in the future. In the meantime, these shrouds will be a place holder Cheers Jim! Will do These Cold Zero parts are nothing but premium. I can highly recommend his parts to anyone considering them! /MA
Update time! Proudly sponsored by: Södertälje Specialsnickeri AB Sweden 0737015925 Hey everybody I have a nice fat update for you! Firstly, I would like to proudly announce that Icemodz.com has kindly sponsored me with all that I need to make my PSU wires niceand organised! Also, all of my lighting options have also been covered with their RGB LEDs, with remote control. I cannot wait to start using them! Lastly, I have all of my hard acrylic tubing needs covered In other news, I have cut myself a hole for the window into the side panel. It took a few hours to complete over a period of three days, whenever I had a spare minute at work. Some of the corners have not been filed all the way down to where I had marked them and this is because I am waiting until I have the acrylic windows in my hands, and can make sure that the window fits without taking away too much of the aluminium. I don't want to have all this time put into the cutting and filing just to find out that the measurements that I gave to the CNC operator, and what I had filed do not match. Anyways, here are some glory shots! I love how this project is shaping up! There aren't so many things more that need to be done to this case. If I am to make a short list, it would look like this: To make or modify: CNC Acrylic window for top of case. CNC Acrylic window for side panel. Drill midplate pass-through holes for hard tubing. Attach angled plate to midplate. Drill reservoir pass-through holes for hard tubing. Install new power button. Install front panel and fill all gaps with car-body repair. Powder coat everything. To install: Cold Zero parts. Water cooling parts. PC components. LED lighting. And lastly, I have received a nice little motherboard for my own personal upcoming upgrade! Well this is it from me for now guys! Next, I plan on doing some sanding on the case and setting the front plate in place, install the orange button, and glue another rail onto the angled plate so I can screw it onto the midplate. Thanks for reading! Best regards, Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen
Update time! Proudly sponsored by: Södertälje Specialsnickeri AB Sweden 0737015925 Hello modders and enthusiasts! I have a nice and exciting update for you tonight. I would first like to announce Södertälje Specialsnickeri AB as a sponsor to this project, as they have donated their time and CNC machining skills to create for me some beautiful windows with indented edges, so they sit flush with the surface of the case. The machine ate through the acrylic glass like a hot knife through butter, so other materials like MDF sheet or even aluminium can be machined. I have a few shots to show to you from my trip out to their workshop and the milling process. I also test fitted the windows, and after some fine adjustments with filing the case, they fit very nicely indeed I hope you enjoy! Here are some interesting projects I seen in the workshop. One is an electric guitar which is about to have the neck milled, and the second round object is actually a 3D milled prototype for the Radiostyrd R2D2 which is currently in the building phase at sweclockers! Ok now, down to business! Let's get those windows machined!! Much excite, wow! The end result, the creator and the creations together. After some fine filing, the test fitting went very nicely! As always I thank you for reading, and hope to see you back next time! Best regards, Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen
Update time! Proudly sponsored by: Södertälje Specialsnickeri AB Sweden 0737015925 Hello girls and guys of modding! I would like to present to you a major company who has generously given us a vital component to the TJ07 project. Which reminds me, I have to start thinking of a name for this project soon! The company is no other than Silverstone Technologies! And the PC component which they have provided to us is the Silverstone Strider ST1200G 1200w PSU. So I would like to thank Marie from Silverstone. I would now like to present an unboxing of this awesome PSU, and maybe write a few words about it as well while I am here. The packaging of this PSU is black and gold, with a high gloss finish. Very fitting colours when you compare it to the project! The sides of the box contain various information about how many cables are in the box, load levels, fan graphs, ripple levels etc. If you wanted to buy a PSU and you had to judge just by looking at the box, this would certainly have all the info you could ever need. Opening the box gave me all of the cables (and there are ALOT), some screws, cable ties, velcro straps and the instruction manual. The cables are of all various colours, which is a shame since I will be sleeving them, and those colours might shine through. I don't wish to make my own cables, but I might just have to... First looks around the PSU. I have to admit, this thing is stunning and feels solid. And that paint work, Oh my!!! This wrinkle coated surface is supposed to make the PSU super durable and scratch resistant. So only time will tell if this is the case. Those white stickers ruin the aesthetics.. Something must be done about that. Ahhh, much better Some beauty shots of the paint job and logo. This is just a super sexy PSU overall, and it feels solid unlike others that I have used. Now I just have to say that Silverstone did not ask me to do an unboxing of this PSU, but rather I did it because I enjoy doing so and it is my way of saying thank you. So, until next update, stay cool! Best regards, Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen
Update time! Proudly sponsored by: Södertälje Specialsnickeri AB Sweden 0737015925 Why hello there guys and girls of modding! I have a lovely update to present to you today. I had done some work on the body with gluing the front panel into place, and sanding the entire face to it is totally flat. It was a labour of love, but well worth it! I covered over the 3 LED holes as well above the on/off switch. I then went ahead and filed out the original hole 5mm so that I could install the vandal switch seen it the pictures, which have a golden/yellow LED ring. So with this said, onto the pictures! So I would like to hear your thoughts on the build so far! Please give me some feedback if you are enjoying this thread, and if there is anything I can do to improve the quality of the thread and/or project! Thanks!! Best regards, Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen
Hey mate! The case will be powdercoated in the end If it were bare without any type of clear coat, it would oxidize and look like poo in 3 months /Justin
Have you guys had any experience with PSUs that require an extra capacitor on the PCI-E cables? Like this one? Can it be cut off? I ask this as the individually sleeved cables which can be bought from moddiy.com don't have them. I have also read that they are to reduce voltage ripple. If it is removed, would the ripple be so bad after? Best regards, Justin
Justin, 3 of my friends cut out the capacitors from cables to sleeve them and it's all good with their systems
Yep, did it with my Antec 1200 and its been running like a champ for over 2 years. Build is shaping up nicely. Best of luck bro.
Update time! Proudly sponsored by: Update time! Proudly sponsored by: Södertälje Specialsnickeri AB Sweden 0737015925 Why hello there guys and girls. I have received the first of the water cooling products, so I have taken this opportunity to snap a few photos to show you guys. Beware: This is a massive photodump. This is kind of like an pictorial unboxing of EK's products, so every one of you can have a look at the finish in person and decide if their products are for you. I am not affiliated or endorsed by EKWB. With this said, onto the pictures! After the photoshoot I was then tempted to throw the rads and PSU into the case to see how it will look The look of the rads are great. I love the rectangular look and the ends where the Torx screws are. The rads have a paint job which cover all the fins without any discolouration unlike any Alphacool or Phobya rad on the market. This is nice if you are aiming to have a fully blacked out PC build like I have planned. The reservoirs feel solid, and look really nice to boot. They come with 4 silver stop fittings and 2 extension fittings. Keep this in mind when you are planning to buy your fittings for your own custom WC loop, otherwise you will have to replace all of these fittings with your desired colour. I also have to give a shoutout to Inet.se who had this delivered just after 2 business days after the products were ordered from their website. Other products were ordered the same time from another webshop, and those items have only just left their warehouse. This is it from me, so until next time, take care! Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen
Looking great! Those PE rads are wonderful, great performance and very reasonably priced. Can't wait to see more. J.
Thanks again Joe I really like the aesthetics of these rads. They step away from regular rad design and and taken on something similar to what Watercool makes. Wonderful indeed! Best regards, Justin
Update time! Proudly sponsored by: Södertälje Specialsnickeri AB Sweden 0737015925 Well hello there! I thought I would share a little how to of how I splice my cables together when creating custom cables. I did not think to do the sleeving side of things though as I did not have enough time to take photos... I have just the time when my daughter is napping during the days to get my work done So here comes a little "How-to" my way You will need one of these to begin with. You know what they say - "helping hands with a magnifying glass are better than a sandwich!"... No wait :S Firstly I lay out my cable. I cut the "parent" cable to size, and recrimp as needed. I then map out the "fetus" cable to length and strip the ends 6mm. I then proceed to remove a 6mm chunk from the "parent" cable where I want the splice to occur. I then take a knife and split the wires on the parent cable to make a hole. I then split the wire on the fetus cable to make a prong/fork. I thread one side of the fetus fork through the hole. I then twist both sides of the fetus fork in the same direction around the parent cable's loop, forming a strong bond. I then "pre tin" the soldering iron with a little bit of tin so that the tip is wet, as I believe this transfers heat better when the tin is already forming onto the wires. I proceed to hold the soldering iron under the twisted wire, with the tin on top. I hold both onto the wires until the entire connection is hot enough, and the tin starts melting though the wires without being in direct contact with the soldering iron's tip. I find that this is best as there is minimal tin on the outside of the wire's as most of hit has melted THROUGH all of the wires, forming a super awesome bond. NOTE: Make sure that the two cables plastic wrap are not touching when doing this technique are not touching, otherwise they will melt together and have to be cut apart. And then repeat. As a small text guide on how I did the sleeving... (Bare with me here ) I sleeved the shortest cable first so that the sleevings length covered the solder. I then proceeded to sleeve the other 2 wires so that the sleeving meets the shorter wire I sleeved previously. I then put on a piece of heatshrink and warmed it enough so that the sleeving underneath melts and forms a bond to each other. IF the heatshrink melts a little, it's no biggie, just use another and warm it slightly to that it shrinks and covers the ugly. I hope this helps you in your journey to sleeving, or creating custom cables. This is the result that I was able to achieve: So thank you once again for reading, and hope to see you in the next update! Best regards, Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen
Sleeving is a lot of the time considered to be the most horrible job of a build. But imo it is also extremely rewarding. A set of clean custom made cables can save a lot of clutter and create a very good flow to the cablemanagement. Nice job.