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MODS PLEASE LOCK - MOVED TO NEW FORUM :D!!!

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Starbuck3733T, 2 Sep 2003.

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  1. Starbuck3733T

    Starbuck3733T Look out sugar, here it comes

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    Goliath: 70+ pounds of computer
    Project Goliath began in my head nearly a year ago. I'd been wanting to get into watercooling, because its quiet, and because it usually yields a fairly good OC. My current Tbird 850/256MB/40GB/Voodoo3 3500 was in desperate need of upgrading. I began browsing for the perfect case, I just was not up to constructing one from scratch. The case needed to be big, but I'm not really too fond of full towers. Using an SX1000 type chassis from antec wasn't an option as i didn't want to loose the HDD bays to the radiator. One of the servers at my workplace at the time seemed like it would work perfectly. It was a rackmount/pedestal mount case w\ a front door, but it was a gateway computer so the manufacturer of the case was a big question mark. I posted on Ars about the case, and one thing led to another and eventually i ended up finding the Intel SC5000 "hudson" chassis @ centronix ltd. I dont have a picture of it virgin, but the box it came in was HUGE! My friend kyle bought the case for me after I did some programming for his website (http://www.uncelebrity.com probably not safe for work) here's a premod picture.

    [​IMG]

    Its an extremely well made case, and also very heavy. With just the sheet metal and the frame it weighs in at a whopping 40 pounds. Mine did not come with the dual redudant PSUs or the SCA hotswap bays. It came with 9 5.25" drive carriers and 4 sets of drive rails, and a 300W delta ATX12V PSU... A few days after I got the case, I got the heatercore. Redleader, $deity bless him, has been a HUGE help on IM in terms of consultation. Our WC loops are very similar. He recommended a 1985 ford econoline van heatercore, it has 5/8" inlets and outlets, and is roughly 25cm x 15cm active area, plus another 3cm or so for the where the fittings stick out.

    [​IMG]

    The 5/8" fittings it came with were cut off, as I simply couldn't get my 1/2" ID Clearflex from DangerDen over the darned things. I'll address what the hell that black stuff is on the end later.

    So with the heatercore, I was able to begin figuring out mounting schemes for the heatercore. First I tried zipties, but they didn't permit the system to be disassembled easily. I let my head percolate for a few days, and finally caught redleader on IM. He informed me that you can safely run screws through the HC and break up the small wires without breaking the waterjacket. I trip to lowes took care of the problem... 3" 5/32 screws, bolts, and washers to evenly distribute the pressure on the bottom of the core. I didn't have a digicam at this stage of the project.. so imagine screws and washers where you see the zip ties :)

    [​IMG]

    Then a problem. A rather big problem. The heatercore placement came very, very, very close to not letting the PSU wires exit correctly. I decided to see if backing the PSU out the back of the case and fabricating a custom bracket would take care of the problem, it would have... But it just looked too ghetto. Some of you may remember the "Is this ghetto? is there a better way" post. Indeed, there was a better way. Sure, the delta 300W EPS12V psu would be plenty to power the guts of this machine, but where the wires came out just wouldnt' work. So I converted the ATX12V psu into a regular ATX PSU... by cutting the end of the 24Pin plug off.

    [​IMG]

    Out came my Antec (Channel Well) 400W PSU from my Tbird 850 box. It had already been converted to use a panaflo L1A instead of the 80mm it came with. But it was a standard ugly PSU, so I ordered some sleeving from FrozenCPU (not the best prices, but thats where the how-to at VirtualHideout led me). 1/4" Black flexo with blue shrink loom, as well as 1/4" blue flexo. The blue flexo is a lot thinner, and I ended up only using it on the ATX12V cable. Also, as you can see below, the PSU's primary air intake (the PSU in the pic is the Delta, not the Antec) is severly choked off by the radiator. My solution to this was to add a panel of MNPCtech's modder's mesh on the side of the PSU. While I was at it, I painted the PSU mirror black, and added some interior ilumination.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    (damn quick cam, still, that's just how shiny that thing is)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    PSU lit up with 2 white LEDs from that guy who was selling them for $0.50 piece. Im glad I got 20 white, 20 blue, and 10 UV :)

    There is also a blue behind the fan, but there's no good picture of that. The PSU runs cool as a cucumber now. And for those who remember the "I lost a piece of my PSU" thread, I put in an insulator piece :-D

    With a heatercore, you need a shroud. If you put the fans directly on top of the HC, there are dead spots and more noise. So.. a shroud. easier said than done. I tried to make one out of fiber glass w\ a form made out of coke-box cardboard, duct tape, and modelling clay. Not a good idea:

    THE DISASTER:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Awful. crap. my first time with fiberglass, what else would you expect? I decided it would still be best to make it out of fiberglass after talkign with the great Spiv for a while. So my second attempt was much, much better. still not perfect, but not the wobbly mess my first try was.

    [​IMG]

    That is a pretty good picture, it doesn't show the surface variations too much. The surface was quite rough, due to not being completely saturated with fiberglass resin or something like that... at least that's what Spiv said :) I tried evening out the surface with bondo spot filler. it was working, but my bondo skills suck. After 3 weeks of trying to work the surface down to perfection for a nice mirror paint job, i thought i was pretty well off. I started spraying with high-build primer and RAGE TOOK OVER MY BODY :devious:. There were things i couldn't see that the primer was showing me, lots of tiny, tiny bubbles holes in the surface. I got on AIM (StarbuckNTX if you want to babble to me) and blew off some steam to Spiv. The conversation went something like "I'm going to throw this ****ing thing out the window!" to Spiv saying that if i mailed it to him, he'd make it good. So i did!

    And then there was a great hiatus in the project. I moved from 17701 to 16823 (just a few minutes from Penn State, GO LIONS!). During this time I bought a DEAD Abit IT7 max off of The Agora, a dead one. The northbridge was in seveal pieces because the seller never told me it had an aftermarket HSF EPOXYIED to hit,and it must have been damaged in shipping. I also got a P4 2.66 that the seller ran in an IT7 at 3.0GHz at default Vcore, air cooled. Also bought some clear PVC pipe for my reservior, as well as a dangerden maze 4 and radeon 9700 block, as well as 15 feet of clearflex.

    When Spiv recieved the shroud he said the construction was good, and that he'd cleaned all my bondo work off and gone down to the raw fiberglass. Spiv RULES, the man of http://www.pc-workshop.net does incredible work. :eek: :D :eek:

    THE SHROUD ARRIVES!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My GOD! When spiv sent me the first picture I almost spooged. I took the second picture when it arrived back to me in perfect condition. Look at the coppers reflection in that gorgeous black paint!

    More shortly, darned message lengths
     
    Last edited: 26 Sep 2005
  2. Starbuck3733T

    Starbuck3733T Look out sugar, here it comes

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    ahh, the fans.. A pair of uber-rare 120mm aluminum frame panaflo L1As which I got off of flea-bay for a mere $30 for both!

    They came looking very dull, and the only thing I could do was to polish them. It took roughly 4 hours per fan and was done primarily by hand, with the exception of 220 grit on the 2nd fan being done with a random orbital sander. 220 grit, 400,600,1000,1500,rubbing compound,polishing compound, mothers aluminum polish. Beautiful. I'm glad my technique worked out so well for you mnpctech!

    [​IMG]

    While spiv was taking care of the shroud, I built the reservior. you've seen it before in anoterh post ;)
    [​IMG]

    Unfortuneatly, the tops made out of 1/8" plexi didn't survive my STUPIDITY! :mad: :devious: :mad:
    Sidetrack: Plastic is an organic compound. Alcohol is an organic solvent. What do you think happens when you run 97% isopropyl alcohol through a WC loop to clean out the crap your HC deposited in it because you were too stupid to flush it out before installing the loop???? Yup, they crack. OOps. The res was rebuilt with 1/4" caps and plumbers goop/ge silicon II. I wish i'd used plumbers goop the whole time, but the silicon II is working fine so far.

    Also in the mean time of waiting for the reservior, and just afer receiving the IC7 from newegg, and other goodies from SVC... one of which was a Zalman passive northbridge cooler. But how to attach it? Simple, dremel 3 pins off of the 4 corners and grind the base down to the same thickness as the original NB HSF. The mod performs beatifully, keeping the northbridge warm but not hot too the touch, with minimal airflow (wash from the 120s on the radiator) There will be a seperate how-to for this at a later date (EG: Starbuck has more pix)

    [​IMG]

    Now the biggest pain in the butt in a watercooling system besides the loop itself has got to be attach the blocks. The DD maze4 I bought uses 4 threaded rods and a host of nylon parts, 4 springs, and 4 brass thumbscrews. In other words, one would normally have to take the mobo out to get the block off. This was not a viable option in my case simply because taking the mobo out means moving the pump, the res, disconnecting a buttload of cabling, etc.

    So I cut a hole in the back of the motherboard plate so I could access the back of the socket 478. The first hole was cut for the IT7, when I thought i was going to get another one, and the second (very ugly un-cleaned up) hole will work for both. Now I can use pretty much any P4 board and be able to easily access the holes in the mobo.

    [​IMG]
    Brad pitt's coat from fightclub... no! it's an access hole!

    [​IMG]

    The hole has be cleaned up greatly since I took that picture. I bought a set of files @ Grizzly and they are wonnnnderful!

    And finally things START coming together ;)

    Its like I've been doing all these tiny mods and nothing has really come together yet. Patience is not really one of my virtues but I've been forcing myself to take my time on this project so things come out the way I'd like them to.

    So first, a combination of the modded PSU and some clever wire routing that takes all the PSU wiring behind the mobo tray, including the 20pin ATX cable!

    [​IMG]
    My 2" bimetal holesaw and I had a date for this one ;)

    [​IMG]
    Dremel/hacksaw action for a hole big enough to get the ATX connector through. I'd love to sleeve the bugger but I can't justify spending $15 on a molex tool that "Might" will do these pins...

    [​IMG]
    Over all shot. Very clean even with eddie norton's shirt peaking through by my drives.

    Lets get wet!

    The time had come to where I was ready to fill the system "for real" and run it for a while just to test everything out. The system was filled with distilled water and nothing else... no other prep. :( Why the frown? Because I never flushed out the heatercore becuase I figured it was brand new, why should I? Well, you'll see later on.

    [​IMG]
    Radiator in place, a little close to the PSU don't you think? 1/2 ID clearflex run from pump to rad, rad to block. I have a Radeon 9700 block ready, but I don't have a radeon 9700 yet :(

    [​IMG]
    shroud in place, fingerprints and all :p Do you see the problem that almost bit me in the arse**?

    [​IMG]
    Told you it was close to the PSU. Blue thinger is the ATX12V line coming back in from the hole to the backside of the mobo tray.

    [​IMG]
    I HAD to drill a hole through the shroud in 3 of the 4 corners to allow my mounting bolts through :(

    [​IMG]
    Revisited
    The black stuff is industrial strength velcro, the "hook" side attached to my heatercore. There is another strip, similar size, on the other end of the heatercore. I swear I took pictures of it but maybe I didn't. I'll try to remember to do so. Matching pieces of "hook" side were attached to the heatercore. The heatercore pops on w\ a slight pressure fit, and then pieces of "loop" side of the velcro are pushed on and hold everything in place! Undoing the shroud for fan or HC cleaning is as easy as removing the top clamshell (not pictured yet) and pulling the "loop" pieces off. Industrial strength velcro is just what it says it is.. VERY strong!

    A nice big pic now!
    [​IMG]

    120mm panaflos attached to the shroud w\ more flexo installed over their wires. Connected to my 1 touch bay-bus circuit (more details coming!). bay-bus circuit is sitting on top of my knight electronics minilab (8 logic switches, 8 indicators, 4 way function generator, variable DC supply, +/-12V supply, 5V supply and prototyping area). The white stuff sitting in front of the pump is pax.mate foam to deaden the pumps vibration (does any okay job, still gotta get something better). The reason it isn't attached yet is because I am going to paint the chassis once all the holes for the "mods to come" are taken care of. Leaktested for 3 days (over a weekend) and then fired up

    TEMPS!
    Ambient: 26.6*C
    Idle: 37.0*C (bios sensor, thermal diode uncalibrated)
    Load: ??? No OS loaded!!

    I couldn't do load testing since I lacked a video card and ram for the board. I eventually stole the XMS2400 corsair and GF2MX from my main box (the voodoo3 was on vacation)

    MORE DISASTER!
    [​IMG]
    This is why you should always run some sort of additive, even for short amounts of time (4 days). This crap built up in my block and the rest of my system (light green haze on tubing walls) after ONLY 4 days. I have come to the conclusion that it is some sort of galvanic corosion because even AirSpirt's *SOL mix (from pro/forums) didn't clean it out, so it had to be inorganic.

    I disassembled teh block and scrubbed it out with alcohol, but the copper was still dark. I scrubbed it out with some ketchup and it was good as new. The acids in the ketchup ate the crap right off of it. Flushed it out throughly with alcohol and distilled water.

    When I originally pulled the block off because of the corosion, I noticed that the surface hadn't mated as well as it should, approximately 40% of the thermal paste had none of the characteristic ridging on it that is indicative of a good fit. This probably had something to do with me not putting the block on correctly in terms of tightening down all the springs. None the less, I decided to lap the block. After 3 hours of block lapping on a monday night (3 monster garages down) with wet/dry 220, 400,600, 1000, 1500 and brasso, here is what we have...

    [​IMG]

    Ooohh. shiny. It probably would have gone a bit quicker, but I only had 1 sheet of 220 wetdry and I think i really got all the use out of it I could have. The block was HIGHLY concave (curving inwards towards the water carrying area. I needed only a 1/4 of the thermal paste I did pre-lapping when I reapplied it. Some have reported that lapping their P4 IHS also dropped their temps by an average of 4 degrees, but I'm not feeling that crazy.

    After hunting around, I finally found a place locally that carried Water Wetter. The 12 Oz bottle was only $7, so if you can get it locally, do so. 'Net prices for it are simply wallet rape!

    I filled the system again: this time with distilled water and 2 capfulls of WW. The ideal concentration of WW is 5%, and my system takes a little under a half gallon to fill, so 2 cap fulls is about right. Also added a few drops of the blue UV dye that I got from SVC on sale ($4.99)***

    [​IMG]
    Oooooh pretty!
     
  3. Starbuck3733T

    Starbuck3733T Look out sugar, here it comes

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    ... Oh yeah, the lighting...
    The single UV CC at the bottom of the case lights things up nicely. When I figure out the power distribution system for the fans and lighting system there will be a 2nd UV CC in the top of the case, as well as a pair of white UV CCs somewhere else.

    The Lighting will be another channel of 1-touch bay bus that cycles White+UV, White only, UV only, off. I am debating doing under-case lighting, keep an eye on this thread and we'll see if I do or if I don't.

    The one-touch baybus: Please dunna steal my ideas!
    Preliminary schematic here.
    The one-touch baybus currently cycles through 12V,10V(adjustable),5V(adjustable),0ff(or adjustable) by way of a 7400 series counter IC who's clock line is attached to a normally open SPST swtich (NO-SPST). When the switch is pressed, the clock line to the counter IC (74HCT393) goes to 5V, when its released it drops back to 0V. The 74HCT393 detects clock on the falling edge (5V to 0V transisition) and increments its outputs (in binary) by one. So the QA through QD outputs count like so (assuming start from 0)
    Code:
    IN BINARY:
    0000
    0001
    0010
    0011
    
    Past that the cycle repeats itself, but I'm only using QA and QB so I don't care what happens to the other outputs.
    QA and QB are then fed into A and B of the 74HCT193 IC (dual 2 bit demux) which takes the binary value on the output of the counter IC and translates it into a decimal value which shows up on Y0 through Y3.
    Code:
    COUNTER     DEMUX OUTPUT
    0000        All off
    0001        Y1 on
    0010        Y2 on
    0011        Y3 on
    
    The Y1-Y3 outputs of the demux (74HCT193) currently drive the coil inputs of 3 reed relays. This is probably not how the circuit will stay as 3 reed relays are rather bulky. I am going to redesign this system so that the output of the demux controls a 555 timer's output duty cycle and use PWM to control the fans.

    The NOSPST switch that currently acts as an input will be replaced by a touch sensor from Qprox. No visiible switches, jsut a glowing indicator ;) :D

    You may have noticed that the 393 and 193 chips have a 2nd channel that is not used yet? The 2nd channel of the 393 will be used to drive MOSFETS to control the cold cathodes. since it counts in binary, cycleing through Off (00b) White CC (01b), UV CC (10b), and both (11b) will be easy. The 2nd channel of the 193 doesn't serve any purpose. yet.

    :dremel: Coming soon to a mod near you... :dremel: (Aka the TODO list)
    Integrate modders mesh into intake hole for the radiator
    1 Touch fan-bus
    1 touch light-bus
    power distribution system for mods
    lighting mods
    custom stainless steel feet?
    window designs? (Spiv... you know what I mean ;))
    Convert pump plug
    Custom front bezel involing
    *stealthed slotload
    *stealthed CDRW
    *see-through to 10K RPM HDDs
    *lighting mods for activity lights
    *system health
    *VFD

    Phew! A lot done but a lot to go! That's it for now! More updates tonite when I get home.
    :D :D

    Phew! that was a lotta project log. Sorry it was so long so far folks, but I migrated it from Arstechnica over to here... since you guys are SO hardcore I couldn't neglect you.
     
  4. Cyberbob:-)

    Cyberbob:-) Minimodder

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    Thats one Big case you have there!!!!

    Some nice work.

    Are you going to spray it? And if so what colour..

    Like the idea of hiding the PSU cables behind the motherboard...Nice a neat.

    Keep up the good work....:D :D
     
  5. Starbuck3733T

    Starbuck3733T Look out sugar, here it comes

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    Yes, the case will eventually get sprayed flat-black (helps hide the wiring with the black on black scheme. I've also examined the possibility of having it powdercoated by my workplace in flat black, but I'm not sure what kinda prep steps have to be taken for that. The more I look at it, the more I realize that the radiator really needs to have its sides sprayed black.
     
  6. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    Nice work :dremel: . I'm impressed that you still managed to find some alu Panaflos on the market. They're getting increasingly rare!
     
  7. ndtinker

    ndtinker Car Washoholic

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    Very nice.

    I see you also got the "slight green haze" on the tubes when you ran it without WW.

    I've been running strictly distilled for about 2 1/2 months now and noticed the other day mine had turned a bit green also. At least you can still see through it fine. It looks like a drop or two of green food coloring was added in.

    You said you used ketchup to clean your block? As in spread it around and scrub with it? I'd never heard of that. I'll give it a try.
     
  8. Starbuck3733T

    Starbuck3733T Look out sugar, here it comes

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    Yup. Grab a cheapy toothbrush and scrub like a mad modder for 5 minutes or so with lots of ketchup. I think its the vinegar that does the trick.

    Thanks for the compliments so far ya'll... but keep the feedback coming! I know there's not much in the way of 'pretty' to look at, but I'm sure all the mechanical/mundane stuff I've done so far will yield plenty of pretty stuff later on. :clap:
     
  9. FlashPanHunter

    FlashPanHunter What's a Dremel?

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    Wow, this has serious potential. I really like that case, what does the front look like? Nice job on the wiring to, I never thought to cut holes in the tray like that. Super clean and professional looking. Sorry to hear about the troubles, still, it look like it works now, so Im looking forward to this projects updates and completion:rock:
     
  10. Cowinacape

    Cowinacape What's a Dremel?

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    Excellent work there guy, great job on how you cleaned up all the wiring, and like you said , that shroud turned out awesome!
     
  11. Poppa_joe

    Poppa_joe What's a Dremel?

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    What are you going to do with the ATX12V power supply? I have been looking for one forever and I would love to buy it off of you. The ATX12V is an ATX power supply that runs off a 12V DC power correct? I am building a computer that is going to be run off of 12 volt car battery’s charged by solar panels.
     
  12. EnderG60

    EnderG60 What's a Dremel?

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    hehe reminds me of my old double wide full height server tower....thing had to have weighted 80lbs bare with only the dual 400W PSU in there

    nice work...for the future if you need any help with fiberglass drop me a line


    for stuff like that I would have said just make it out of cardboard and then just soak the cardboard in resin...no real need for fiberglass...but if you wanted to just get box tape cover the cardboard in it(fiberglass wont stick to it) and make yourself a nice mold

    and yeah a small amount of water wetter or antifreeze will go a long way to prevent crap like that from forming
     
  13. BMCreider

    BMCreider What's a Dremel?

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    That case...aint bad...
     
  14. Starbuck3733T

    Starbuck3733T Look out sugar, here it comes

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    Well, now that things are getting caught up to current...

    System specs & Overclocking, or the lack thereof... :(

    Now that those 2 rather huge posts have us caught up to the current state of affair with Goliath, I'll get to overclocking/system specs.

    Specs:
    Abit IC7
    P4 2.66GHz
    256MB XMS2400 borrowed from my Tbird 850 (to be replaced w\ 2x256 kingston hyperX PC3500)
    PNY GF2MX (to be replaced by Sapphire radeon 9700 pro if I can find one w\ a black PCB)
    Netgear 10/100 card (blue PCB,Realtek based)
    Adaptec 29160 U160 card
    Quantum atlas 10K III 18.2GB U160 x 2
    Pioneer DVD-303S slotload SCSI dvdrom
    HP 8x4x32 SCSI cdrw
    92mm Panaflo L1BX x 2(coming soon)
    ---WC---
    Dangerden maze4 P4 block
    Dangerden radeon 9700 block
    1/2" ID tygon tubing
    brass/poly fittings
    Eheim 1250
    1985 ford econoline van HC
    120mm polished Panaflo aluminum frame L1As x 2

    And the OC. CPU temps (from bios, uncalibrated thermal diode)
    Ambient 74-78*F (26.6*C-??)
    Idle: 36-37.5*C
    Load: 40.5*C @ 2.66GHz
    Load: 42.5*C @ 3.00GHz/1.575 Vcore

    And that's all I got for an OC. A meazly 340MHz OC. waHHHHHHH!!!
    I tried upping vcore to 1.650 tops, but couldn't stabilize at 3.1GHz even with the ram (which is rated up to 150MHz) running at CAS3 (which it is stable up to 187MHz, 4:5 divider, 150MHz CPU FSB)

    BWAHHHHHHHH!!!! I want more of an OC!

    Anyway... that's the up to the current, and at 3.00 I can run prime95 for as long as I want with the radiator fans at a voltage where they are damn near silent!

    ... back to the moddin...
    The top metal of my case comes off just like a normal side panel, 1 screw holds it on the back and several tabs engage on either side. The radiator is top mounted, but there is about a 1/4" space between the top of the rad and the top clamshell b/c of the chassis structure. So what to do? a regular hole would be ugly because of the gap...

    Que the modders mesh of course!

    Against my better ideas I ended up cutting a piece to fit the hole approximately instead of folding the edges out to sit under the sheetmetal ala Infidel's mesh mod. I tried for about 3 hours to do it but I just dont have the right tools to do so.

    I cut the mesh to approximate size, put tape down on the top of the sheet metal, and filled the back with JB Weld, and placed 2 gallons worth of distilled water (handy weights!) on top at let it cure. Here's what it looks like with just the 2 ends in place:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I've got to jbweld the other sides in place and then file out the holes so they're pretty on the edges, followed by some bondo action (using the real stuff this time not the crap spot filler) to get it all nice and even in preperation for automotive grade paint :D

    Comments please!
     
  15. thorilan

    thorilan What's a Dremel?

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    your project looks a whole lot like mine in most design decisions as i also top mounted the rad and made my own res that is vertical and mounted it in the same place and cut the mobo tray for many wire stealths , though due to the psu needing to be mounted inverted on mine i wont be stealthing the power cables behind the mobo.


    hehe great minds think alike
     
  16. Starbuck3733T

    Starbuck3733T Look out sugar, here it comes

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    :eeek: :clap: :eeek: :clap: :hip:

    Thanks for 5 staring me guys!!!

    thorilan: what chassis are you working with?
     
  17. thorilan

    thorilan What's a Dremel?

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  18. FlashPanHunter

    FlashPanHunter What's a Dremel?

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    Nice, that grill when painted will look great:thumb:
     
  19. Pug

    Pug What's a Heatsink?

    Joined:
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    Hey, hiya Star! :)
    That's a humongous case! Whatcha gonna do with all the drive bays?

    Now I see where you were going with the mesh panel bit - that double curved shoulder we talked about would probably be even harder with the round hole than the hex too, as well as the fact that the surrounding metal is thinner than I had to work with, like you said.
    At least those nice round holes you have will be easier to file out though... :hehe:

    I didn't know you were an electronics buff - I love the sound of your one-touch controllers.
    I'd love to steal your idea once you're done with it ...
    *whispers* mod guide? ;)

    Oh and I'll tell you now, not only did you drag me kicking and screaming through this on 56k but I'm in the middle of d/ling the Call of Duty demo too! :eeek:

    - Infidel [Ars]
    (aka Pug)
     
  20. Starbuck3733T

    Starbuck3733T Look out sugar, here it comes

    Joined:
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    Cheers Pug!

    When winter roles around (and I can't be painting) the electronics will get more attention, and then there will most certainly be a dual-posted mod guide on how to make a multi-channel touch-___-bus.

    As far as the filing out of the holes in the mesh, it would be easier if they were filled with bondo. JB weld is strong but holy moly is it hard. I may have to upgrade to diamond files so my steel ones don't go down the toilet.

    I was planning on jbwelding up the seams on the other side last night, but a night at the Pub (or bar here in the US) and some hot wings (is there an UK-English version of them?) side tracked me. I shall not mod while heavily intoxicated, I make too many small mistakes when Im trashed.:wallbash:
     
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