damn. i need to silver so that my mouse will go with my silver chieftec dragon case. Well theres always normal spray paint i suppose.
Here is my mouse painted with rattle can spray paint. Krylon aluminum Krylon candy blue (stain glass) Krylon clear
Sweet! I have the same problem with my Logitech Dual Optical. Where is a good place to pickup this stuff?
try local auto body store (Pep Boys, Napa etc...) look in the paint section for something called DupliColor Vinyl & Fabric Dye... about $4 a can... (you guys in the UK have it crappy)
wow WOW! ViperZ that is the sexiest mouse Ive ever seen! Could you answer a couple questions for me? -Did you disassemble the mouse body in order to paint? If so, how? (Im a sissy about taking my optical apart) -Did you just do a few coats of aluminum, a few coats of bloo, then clearcoat it? -I notice you took the optical symbol off of the lit portion on the back. How'd you go about that?
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to run out tomorrow and try this out. I wonder how it would work on drive bezels?
Thanks Guys! Shrapnill, Yes the mouse was disassembled for painting. Remove the teflon pads with a sharp knife (Xacto) and set aside on a piece of wax paper. This allows access to the 4 screws that hold the body of the mouse to the red plastic plate. With the screws removed you must gently pry at the sides to clear them from the base, it all comes apart quickly from there. The 2 thumb buttons remain with the red plastic plate, as does the scroll wheel. The left right buttons come off with the main body. The L/R buttons are a 1 piece affair, and is removed by unscrewing it from the main body. The body was sanded lightly with 600 grit paper just to clean the surface for painting. 3 coats of aluminum silver was laid down and allowed to cure for a few days. Then 5 coats of candy blue was sprayed on. This was again allowed a few days to cure. Actually the candy was applied over a 3 day period. After curing for a few days, 3 coats of clear was applied and allowed to cure for 48 hours. Then the whole assembly was wet polished with polishing films & water, starting at 3200 then stepping through 3600/4200/6000/8000 and finishing @ 12000. After the polishing, the mouse was again allowed to settle for 24 hours before Zymol wax was applied to protect the finish. It actually feels very seductive in hand as it is so smooth to touch The Optical symbol . Truth be known it actually was almost worn off so I just rubbed off the remnants of the symbol with my thumb and finger nails.... You see the mouse was looking pretty worn before the paint job.
is there sum sort of guide or tutorial on this polishing ... becus i always hear about it, never done it, never knew any of the lingo u used .. like polishing film etc ... any heads up wud be appreciated.
Only that i lived in Regina for some 5,5 yearz, and i was wondering if you were somebody i know, but i obviously don't know you unless you lived in Regina some three-five yearz back... well did you???
That's cool djgizmo! No I have never lived in Regina. What were you doing in Regina? ZzZaAkK, It's really simple to polish / rub out a paint job. The simplist way is to just use a polishing compound (automotive). You do have to be more careful as it can cut through the paint very rapidly. The idea is to level the paint surface, removing the high spots that that give it the orange peel look. Rubbing compound is basically a fine grained slury that has micro grit particales that act as the polishing agent. I have even used toothpaste with good success on smoother finishes. Using polishing films allows finer control in the finish with less chance of burning through the color coat. Polishing films are basically a very fine grit abrasive that tends to remove micro particals of the finsh unlike sand paper. I use Detail Masters for I like the cloth backing it is applied on, as well as the ramge of grits available. Here is a Link The key with any polish job is to take your time annd don't overwork the paint. The most important point is to stay away from the edges or use very light pressure here for this is the areas that tend to burn through the color coat. Using the polish films, i spent a total of 15 mintes polishing my candy Blue mouse to the finish you see. It really was easy. One note, Lacquers tend to polish up the best with little to no effort, however the paint odor tends to be very strong. The Krylon I used is a fast drying lacquer.
That's a very nice job on your mouse, ViperZ. I finally got some color on my Kensington TurboRing trackball today. The 3 buttons will get Flexi-Chrome. I wan't able to get my trackball apart. I tried, but I just couldn't get it to separate without a lot of force, which I was unwilling to do since they don't make this trackball any more. Grump
Wow, ViperZ, nice work. Very nice finish, I'm gona try the same here tonight. My mouse is gona suffer to.
