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Cooling My Rig ... 3 pics 500x375 ( 56K unfriendly )

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by [DE]FreD_S, 24 Sep 2002.

  1. [DE]FreD_S

    [DE]FreD_S Certified Specialist of Awesomeness

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    Those nerds finally sent me my cable ... so here goes the first pic ... more to follow :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Cheers

    [DE]FreD_S :rock:
     
    Last edited: 24 Sep 2002
  2. scopEDog

    scopEDog Minimodder

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    :eeek: Thats some nice stuff bro!! What temps are you getting?
     
  3. [DE]FreD_S

    [DE]FreD_S Certified Specialist of Awesomeness

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    My temps are crap ... I currently have 47°C according to the probe under hte CPU on my A7V266-E with an ambient of 29°C in the room :sigh: ... I believe it's due to my setup not fitting 100% ... I have a rad with 8mm i.d., my CPU Block has 8mm i.d. the pump has 12mm i.d. and the res 10mm ... My new system will be 100% 1/2" and be housed in my "old" case, a silver Chieftec Dragon Full Tower ... but that's gonna take some time ... in any case I'd like to have that OCPC Atlantis block on my CPU in the next system ... but I haven't seen any reviews of that block :wallbash: . Anyone know any links ?

    Cheers

    [DE]FreD_S
     
  4. Risky

    Risky Modder

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    I can see a Aquatube (1/8 fittings), a Miro rad (?) and is that a Maxxpert block? You are using some legris fittings (can't tell the size) and some heavy tubing between them. The pump is presumably a 1250.

    Is there a case for doing the whole thing with 8mm ID fittings and tube and a smaller pump? I can't see how the big tube helps with small interconnects.
     
  5. Risky

    Risky Modder

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    Ahh, I've check the gallery and see the spec. Don't quite get why the expanded tubing between the joints or to put it better the small joints at all. If you want legris quick connects for 10mm ID I'ves seen them at Fanell and RS, but you may need to use the stiffer tuning between them.

    That said I love the rad. What connectors does it come with? Is it welded barbs or is it threadded so you can chose your own connection system?
     
  6. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    Very, very nice. :rock:

    I note something is mounted on the left panel of the case... could you post a shot of that?
     
  7. [DE]FreD_S

    [DE]FreD_S Certified Specialist of Awesomeness

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    Here's a shot of the rad, which is mounted on the left side of the case. I chose the left side, because it's the only place I can install a 120mm fan on the inside. The fan sucks air through the rad into the case and the PSU and the fan at the top of the case blow the air out. The second pic is my system by night. I have three rather dull red LEDs in the plexiglas which protects the rad ...

    Oh yeah, the rad comes with open copper tubing. There are no special barbs or anything just the rad tubing itself open at the ends. It has 10mm o.d. which leaves us with 8 mm i.d. But there's enough space to solder on anything you like ...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I forgot one thing ... I only used the 90° FESTO connectors to reduce the pressure the tubing has on the CPU block and to be able to route the tubing so it's not in my way ... I didn't have any "proper" 90° connectors for my tuing so I just used what was lying around ...

    Cheers

    [DE]FreD_S
     
  8. Risky

    Risky Modder

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    Hmm. I'd need to solder something on to it to get a threaded end and use the push-in fittings.

    Btw, for those of you that are curious theses rad are available at www.cooling-solutions.de

    EDIT: I was reading this doc: http://www.low-noise.de/kompatiblitaetsliste.pdf
    and it said with reference to the Mora radiators,
    Which Google makes to
    Now I recon that tells me that you could stick a 10mm legris fitting:
    [​IMG] or similar straight on the end pipe and they you can run the wholw system on 10mm OD PUR tubing keeping a constant 8mm ID throught the system. (possibly excepting the Res as that is on an 1/8 thread).
     
    Last edited: 25 Sep 2002
  9. [DE]FreD_S

    [DE]FreD_S Certified Specialist of Awesomeness

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    Theoretically yes, but practicly no. The ends do have 10mm o.d. but they aren't "round" enough to keep the system tight if you just stick on one of those fittings ... Personally I'd solder on a brass piece with let's say 1/4" thread and then screw a Legris or FESTO connector in ... maybe the rev. 2 of the moras will be better, but noone knows when they'll be out and rev 1 of the moras is sold out. A heck, I'm gonna use BIXs in future systems anywayz ... you can hide them quite nicely ... and they have bigger fittings ... that's what I don't like about our German watercooling systems - they all use 10mm fittings. I like it big ...

    Cheers

    [DE]FreD_S
     
  10. TiTch

    TiTch h2o cooled

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    My instint says that one area of problem is the pump. 1250 is not suited for a 10mm setup. I will make the pump run hot and as they dump as much as 15w of heat in the water this can be a problem. Also the water could well be passing through the radiator too fast for the heat to get out.

    If you know someone with a smaller pump, borrow it for an afternoon and try it out.
     
  11. Risky

    Risky Modder

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    TiTch, I thought it was a 1048.

    [DE]FreD_S, I am temped by this passive idea. I was going to go with the HTF Dual from www.watercool.de (they have a new v2.0 coming out, look in their forums), but a passive system might be apprppriate for a Tualatin rig. Btw I've found a new tube rad that takes barbs if you're interested:
    [​IMG]
     
  12. [DE]FreD_S

    [DE]FreD_S Certified Specialist of Awesomeness

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    Hehe ... how come everytime one finds a decent part, it's out of stock ? First the Atlantis block, now that rad ... :wallbash:
    I've seen that res before, but to be honest I don't like it at all. For my taste it's far too big. Sure, the barbs are a nice option, but I can also enlarge the holes on my aquatube for 1/2" barbs or 3/8". I prefer the aquatube, because it's nice and small and you can attach it almost everywhere.

    Hey TiTch ... its an Eheim 1048 in my current system ... the 1250s gonna be part of the next system ... a full 1/2" system that is ;-) - if of course it is possible to enlargen the threads on the aquatube to that size ... gotta go measure :p

    Cheers

    [DE]FreD_S
     
  13. Risky

    Risky Modder

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    Yep, res not rad :blush:

    The aquatube is 1/8 thread, iirc. Obviously you can get all rorts of barbs to fit but I've never found out if 1/8 means 1/8 inch ID in the thread. The readson is that I'm trying to work out how much constriction there is on the flow. Witht he legris (et al) fittigs you have a constand Inner diameter (unlike barbs), but of couse if the thread is tiny then you have constriction anyway.
     
  14. [DE]FreD_S

    [DE]FreD_S Certified Specialist of Awesomeness

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    From what I've seen and used, the inch parameter always refers to the threading, not to the i.d. For example : I have 1/2" barbs here with an i.d. of 10mm, where as 1/2" are about 12.7 mm which fits exectly to the threading ... that's another issue I have with vendors everywhere - they mostly refer to the thread and not the i.d. of whatever fitting they use ... :nono:

    Cheers

    [DE]FreD_S
     
  15. Risky

    Risky Modder

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    So with 1/4 thread, thewre's little point going over 1/8 ID? I notices www.multimediashop.com doing 10mm ID plug-in fittings.
     
  16. Coolrunnin

    Coolrunnin What's a Dremel?

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    To clear up the barb spec problems-


    barbs are almost always spec'd in the following format-

    1/2"x1/4"BSPT (NPT) or something along those lines in metric ;)

    this refers to -

    1/2" - size of the tubing to fit on the barb side not measurement of the barb itself.

    1/4" BSPT is the thread PITCH on the screw side - not the actual diameter of the threaded end

    easy huh :)

    hope that helps :hip:
     
  17. Haddy

    Haddy World Domination

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    go post in case gallery =)
     
  18. aurazes

    aurazes What's a Dremel?

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    dude... how did u stealth that cdrom with those case bezels.. i have the same front panel and those things are hard to stealth. they get caught onto the lower or higher bezel
     
  19. Haddy

    Haddy World Domination

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    probably all about getting them perfectly centered......or maybe shaving a lil off the tops and bottoms of the drive covers
     
  20. [DE]FreD_S

    [DE]FreD_S Certified Specialist of Awesomeness

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    Sorry bout replying a bit late ... I had that problem aswell, which pi**** me off pretty much. What I did was took some sandpaper ( is that the correct word ? ) and started working on the edges of the panels, installed them, looked if it was enough and so on until it fitted alright. But what still doesn't work properly is the eject button ... I think I'll solder some wire to the button and redirect it to the top of the case ... Oh yeah I almost forgot, you have to work on the plexi aswell, cause that's what's really in the way when opening a drive ... I started off by just sanding the plastic and wondered why the **** it still wouldn't work ... :wallbash:

    Cheers

    [DE]FreD_S
     
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