ya, aww well i ran it on my HD44780 display... FUNNY++ thanks man! (*bows down*, i'm, not worthy! i'm not worthy! ) i always knew you were hiding on some board somewhere... dam, too many message boards... the [H]... pheaton, bittech, when will it end! ah w/e its all fun right?
Ok, as my code is already ready for the user defineable wirings it's just a matter of changing couple constants and rebuilding to make it work with your wiring (i hope). So you should soon find new versions available. I noticed that in your wiring you have the CSS pin wired to GND but in Zotty's wiring it's connected to the LPT port. But I think it should work anyway. EDIT: I have now the FLECOM Special Edition versions available but as I haven't tested them I've no idea if they work.
I know this forum isn't about technical support, but I NEED TECHNICAL SUPPORT! My software setup consists of the following applicable software: Microsoft Windows XP Professional Winamp v2.81 LiQuiD-MP3 v0.9.3 Beta DriverLINX Port I/O Driver The wiring follows the pinouts for the LiQuiD-MP3/LCD Info software. I have been from time to time swapping the display with a parallel port printer using the same LPT1 port--I'm not sure if the printer's use of LPT1 can possibly interfere with the VFD while the printer is disconnected. So here's the problem. Upon receiving 5 VDC by an external power supply, the vanes inside the vacuum fluorescent chamber glow orange as expected. After inserting the DB-25 male connector for the parallel cable and setting up LiQuiD-MP3 as directed, nothing happens--HOWEVER, when I wiggle the DB-25 male connector inside the socket, various parts of the entire screen light up randomly. Then, when I click "Start" in Winamp, the screen clears. This tells me that the VFD is receiving data, but not quite correctly. I have fooled around with various settings in the BIOS, such as parallel port IRQs, EPP/ECP, and EPP port versions (1.9 or 1.7). Nothing seems to change the results. Yarvieh's test application does not run, however. Advice?
It ain't the bios, It's your connection... Mine gets a bit flaky at times too, but it's due to the connector (db25) not making good full contact with the female port on the PC... If I wiggle it right, It works like a champ, So I screwed it to the back, and voila, it works every time now... It's not the bios, or the ecp-epp-spp settings, it's your Physical connection.
and my problems still go unfixed, they sounded like his... but his fix dont work for me. i just neeeeed to find someone with one spare display who wants some money..
I'd double check all soldering and wiring... 50% of all people who attempt a parallel wiring for the first time make a mistake in my experience. Rob.
in one night alone me and ram z went through stuff, and i had spent 4 and a half hours on my wiring and thesoftware in the ONE night alone. then there are the nights before that. i have since given up on those two displays as freaks. whos up for blowing up some VFDs ?
ive got a section of blue gel that is two feet long and about as high as two of these displays. ill cut some off for RAM Z, but anoter person or two might be able to get some off of this sheet. just email me. first come first serve. pizzaeatnmonkey@mchsi.com
hi I would like to know what the standard price for this display would be (if bought straight from nortiake). Thx
The latest revision of the display, 800A, is the only one you can buy from noritake. Costs around £65, or $100, Rob.
Okay i admit it... i did a stupid thing near 2am this morning and let some fo the smoke out of my vfd Wired everything up, tested and displayed perfectly... then moved it off the breadboard to a more permanent wiring...I should have just leftit be and gone to bed...but i was hell bent on finishing it and some dummy reversed the polarity for the power connector...brief blue flash from the fuse and the vfd is toast. I didn't pay attention to the pin outs on the power (they are numbered backwards in my opinion), and really should have either used a keyed header, or at least payed attention to what i was doing. 2nd display just arrived via UPS so i'll still have something to play with when i get home from work. But i know i'm not the first one to hose one of these up.... i soldered a bypass across the fuse but that made no difference, it killed something else. Before i start tracing out the entire display i figured someone else may have done the same and hopefully will save me a bit of work by not duplicating thier repair/troubleshooting efforts.
when i made a board to fit on the back of my display and allow me to use a standard molex and a regular parallel cable, i to botched the power. killed my displays. and dispite what people have been saying, ypassin the fuse did nothing for me either.
Thats about what i was figuring too.... i'll play around with it for a spell and see if i can find another likely point of failure due to reversing the polarity that may be repairable to any extent.... Other than that looks like i have a new paperweight.... or victim in the waiting....
Already have a spare..... thanks though...ordered two for a reason... every now and again i do something dumb... ie... goofing around at 2am instead of sleeping before work=a good way to let the smoke out of stuff.
w000000t thank you bit-tech and the folks on bit-tech forums for making this possible, i'd like to thank my mom and my dad for giving me the money, and most of all i'd like to give a big hand to all those fans that believed in me!!! btw, i want world peace!!!
I am really interested in one of your spare displays. I already emailed you, but heres my email anyways. pizzaeatnmobkey@mchsi.com
