A/V Passive Subwoofer Boxes

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by Altron, 22 May 2003.

  1. Altron

    Altron Minimodder

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    Soon I will embark on a quest inspired long ago... dual channel subwoofers!

    The plan:
    Build a pair of affordable passive subwoofers

    The budget:
    Around $60

    The Parts:
    10" Ultimate Pro Subwoofer 4 ohm - $7.88
    2.5mH 18ga Air Core Inductor - $7.20
    80uF 100V Cap - $1.80
    Binding Posts - $4.95

    The box:
    A 4th order bandpass, depth 30" height 18" width 12" wuth a divider in the middle and a 4" port tube on one side of the divider

    The crossover:
    A 6db/octave low pass at 250Hz
    A 6db/octave high pass at 250Hz for the main speakers

    Various info:
    I am using the bi-amp terminals as the input and the high pass output.
     
  2. micb

    micb Minimodder

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    A few questions:

    WHY those very cheap drivers?

    Subwoofers are about moving air, the drivers you have selected are more midwoofers than subwoofers there X-max alone is a a low 4mm that means you will have not very much decent linear excurtion for low bass.

    Bandpass often not very good alignment for hometheater or music in the home, generally a flat frequency responce as possible is desired for in home bass, Bandpass enclosures do not do that very well at all, they perform best in there limited passband and roll of sharply above and below.

    What tuning point are you using what is you enclosures f3 and f6?

    Have you got any simulated responce curves you can show me for your subwoofer? I would be very interested in seeing them.

    You want to use subwoofers rolling off at 250 hz my god is that high, surely you will have no low bass output due to you using a extremly limited passband design.

    A well proven and acepted DIY Subwoofer for home audio from past express is the Dayton DVC, it has been used many times with very good results, it has a very good x-max of 15 mm, this means just one of these drivers could eclipse close to four of you drivers on the lowest bass scenes.


    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...8&St3=-78461781&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=7764&DID=7


    Please do not take offence with any of my post/opinion but the design looks very very strange to me.
     
    Last edited: 22 May 2003
  3. Altron

    Altron Minimodder

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    Yes, but the Dayton DVC is $120. If I had $120 I wouldn't be messing around with this car buyout crap :haha:

    I'll take another look around, i probably don't even need subwoofers .

    Yet again another project I started jsut to be cool "hey check out my dual bandpass subs" not because I particularly like dual channel bandpass subs.

    I suppose it makes far more sense to get a nice mono sub thna crappy dualk channel subs.

    *THe third dumb project I was to embark on before someone with common sense stopped me*

    What do you reccomend, in the sub $40 rnage for a good subwoofer?
     
  4. RTT

    RTT #parp

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    250Hz is well high to be crossing over at mate!
     
  5. Altron

    Altron Minimodder

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    So ~150Hz would be better.

    I think I will do the single sub and make nice speakers that can go down to around 150Hz.
     
  6. penski

    penski BodMod

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    20Hz ;)

    *n
     
  7. Altron

    Altron Minimodder

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    Nope, I'll need another subwoofer just to make it down to 20hz!

    I thikn you need a really really big subwoofer to go below 20Hz. Maybe Nelson Pass's El Pipe-Os could handle 20Hz, but they are 12 feet high. www.passdiy.com
     

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