Use uploadit.org , great site for this purpose. Anyway, I agree. If not, maybe just a box in the back for the PSU, or a stand or something!
Yeah! It wouldn't be hard to build trim out so that it blends with the overall look. It could house the PSU and/or the drives. Seems a shame to abandon the original case without a fight!
Hi guys. I've been hard at work with cardboard models and even the SketchUp demo. I'll need a case 2 inches wider and 1 inch deeper [than the Philco] to fit my components without modification [and without damaging the Philco too much]. Thanks for your tips though. I came up with a layout for my new radio case that uses dual 120mm input fans, with the exhaust air exiting through the speaker cloth. But before I build a case on this principle, I thought I'd better make sure I could push enough air through cloth to keep my case cool. So I spared no expense to built this highly-scientific wind tunnel with velocity meter: I inserted an 80mm fan into an 80mm cardboard tube and sealed it thoroughly with duct tape. This fan was powered by a variable-output DC power supply and tested at 7V and 12V. I placed another fan, unpowered, against the output end, and connected the RPM sensor to a voltmeter to measure the air throughput. When the input fan blows, the air will spin the unpowered output fan, producing a current via the RPM sensor. As a control, I did a preliminary test without any cloth at all, at 12V input. The unpowered fan on the output end produced 3V. Then I spent 87 cents at Wal-Mart for 3 potential grill materials. Sample 1 at 12V The first real test was of an ugly black plastic grill from the crafts section. You're supposed to weave yarn through the holes to produce pretty pictures. I feared that this would be the only product I could find that would permit enough airflow to be usable: Taping it over the output end of the wind tunnel and hooking up both fans, I found that the output was reduced to 1.6V, a 47% loss in airflow. The input fan sped up as it found itself with not enough air to push and got noticably louder. The rush of air through the grill was also quite loud. Sample 2 at 12V Next I tested a nice piece of cloth that actually looked like speaker-cloth. Also from Wal-Mart, in the fabric department. This was much more attractive (it's a smaller weave than the picture shows because I held the camera too close): This fabric allowed 1.9V of throughput, only a 37% loss of airflow. The input fan again sped up, but the rush of air through the cloth was less annoying than that through the plastic grill. Sample 3 at 12V Last was a sample of a very finely-threaded black chiffon: This fabric allowed 2.1V throughput, only a 30% loss in airflow. The input fan sped up as usual, but the rush of air was quietest in this sample, though still clearly audible at 12V. I was surprised at the performance of this cloth, since it had the tightest weave by far. Samples 1, 2, & 3 at 7V Next I tested all three sample again, at 7V. This time I had no output measurements, as there was not enough airflow to spin the second fan. The chiffon was quietest, and at a distance of about 9", the rush of air through the fabric was inaudible. The speaker cloth was very barely louder, and was inaudable at about 12". The plastic grill's whoosh was very soft, about the same as the speaker cloth. In all three cases the input fan increased in RPM with the output covered. It would be an interesting experiment to see how much more output area you need before the fan no longer struggles. I don't feel like performing it, however. The results were good enough for me. My new design calls for 74.5 square inches of grill cloth versus 35 square inches of fan area. This will, I hope, be enough area to not stress the fans. Sample 1, 2, & 3, appearance Next I tested the appearance of each sample. The black plastic grill was just plain ugly. Next! The speaker cloth was the blackest, and obscured the interior of the wind tunnel the most. If you don't want anyone seeing the insides of your case, use this. When the interior is lit, it becomes partially transparent, and you can see the inside, though not very clearly: The chiffon appears to be a dark grey, rather than pure black. It does a fairly good job of hiding the interior, but not as well as the speaker cloth: If you have strong lights in the room, objects close to the fabric will be visible. When you turn on lights inside the case, the cloth virtually vanishes, and it's like looking through tinted glass: I took that picture from about 4 inches away, so the threads are visible. From normal viewing distance, you can't see them at all. If you want to show off the inside of your case to full advantage, use the chiffon rather than the speaker cloth. Conclusion I was quite pleased with the results, and feel that exhausting air through a large-enough expanse of cloth is a valid cooling technique. Chiffon was the quietest and allowed the most air to pass through, and has the added benefit of virtually disappearing when backlit. I personally will use the chiffon, so that my interior lighting can be shown off at will. I no longer plan to have a plexiglass back, due to layout contraints, so this will be my only way to have pretty lights. Now you see them, now you don't. Project hours to date: 21.25 Project cost to date: $38.59
soooo...you're going to use the radio? NOOOOOOOOOO! Heh, i suppose I'll find my own project then...*skulks away* but hey, this is looking very good, and for being so cheap! Great idea with the test fans for your cloth, that gives me an idea!
Day 7 I missed a couple of days of work due to visiting family, but I'm ready to get back to work now. I've experimented with dozens of layouts via my cardboard models. I am hopeful that I have finally chosen a successful one: The motherboard is in the center, on edge, with the CPU heatsink/fan on the right of it, and the cards to the back (which is actually the face). The motherboard/card connectors will come out through the bottom, so that the connections to monitor, speakers, etc., will be out of sight. The power supply is to the left, with the hard drive rack over it, on edge. On the far right is the floppy drive, on edge. The CD-RW sits on top, and opens out the back of the case. Plexiglass back, stock appearance on front & sides. The cooling design I'll leave to your imagination for now. Outside dimensions will be approx. 13" wide, 16.5" high, 10.5" deep. Tomorrow I'll buy a few slabs of oak and begin laying out the parts. Project hours to date: 33.25 Project cost to date: $38.59
I've read that speaker-grill post twice and I can't find the part that is apparently misleading folks into thinking I will be using the original case after all. I am building a new wooden case that will mimic the antique cathedral radio look, but with slightly larger dimensions. I will not use the 1939 Philco for this project as I want this, my main PC, to retain the ability to swap components at will with my other machines. Perhaps it would be best if a mod moved this thread to the failed mod forum, and then I started over with a fresh thread for the replica radio once I have something concrete done. Sorry for the confusion.
ok i took one look at that and knew exactly where the Optical drive should go if it will fit. in the largest speaker section you see the steps in the middel bottem of it. mount them tere and then pull a Zap Wizard. IE stealth the drive with a plate and cover that plate with the same material that makes up the rest of the speaker covering. it would required a small frame around the opening to keep the cloth (should you go the cloth route) tight without deformity (is that even a word) anyway, if you make a replica of a radio or just use that one i hope all goes well.
I'm waiting for some money before I proceed further. I'm also distracted by another project I'm working on. [update: I got a new computer desk for Christmas...the radio project is dead because it wouldn't look right with my new style of desk.]
