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Scratch Build – In Progress *** PHINIX NANO TOWER *** --- MOTY 2011 nomination !!!

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by phinix, 9 Nov 2009.

  1. TotalGaos

    TotalGaos Stainless steel.. hmm..

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    I think countersunk screws may be less distracting from the design. I love the fact that the hex design for the window comes back in the screws by the way!
     
  2. DeadP1xels

    DeadP1xels Social distancing since 92

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    This is so cool i personally like the button headed screws looks very sweet!
     
  3. Burnout21

    Burnout21 Mmmm biscuits

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    I have to agree, Liquid Solvent Cement would have worked a treat.

    however hasn't Tensol 12 got a higher viscosity thus it stays where its placed and better for bridging gaps that liquid solvent can't.

    The solvent cement only works if both surfaces are in perfect contact, i tend to round the edge a small amount by running a blade along the edge in a dragging motion. this allows for the cement to 'pull' in under the capillary action.
     
  4. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Guys, thank you all for your suggestions.
    I can now say that I just have ordered 40 black button head screws:)
    Small ones, M3, 6mm long - that will be enough just to screw those panels together with small nuts behind.
    I decided to go with button head screws - I also have black rivets, but I was thinking - in the future I can always do something else, like for example I can add small flat spacers between both panels and add leds between them to make nice light effect. Just a thought...:)
     
  5. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    I chose Tensol 12 for simple reason - I used it before, liekd it how it is clear after it dryes out.
    I don't know anything about this colvent cement - is it good? Does it dry clear? I used 3 different glues for acrylic in the past and all of them left white smears after dried, Tensol was good for this, cause it was alwyas water clear. But if you recommend the other one, I may take a look and see if its good for acrylic. Thanks for advice guys!
     
  6. oliverw92

    oliverw92 What's a Dremel?

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    It dries clear because there is no glue left after - it literally turns the two pieces of acrylic into one piece. I seriously recommend trying it. Here is a pretty good video about it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfgDnlOabEc

    You can either apply it with a brush (i like this for very small bits), with a syringe, or with a glue applicator (bottle with a needle on it).

    Here is the solvent: http://www.hindleys.com/catalog/pro...d=314&oscsid=4463e076789d8c520c99a034ed9ef989 and you can get an applicator or a syringe here

    Quick run down of how you bond:

    - Make sure the parts you are bonding have a clean flat finish (up to something like 120 grit if you have dodgy saw marks left over)
    - Put the two pieces in place where you want to bond them. It is easiest if you can have them resting there with gravity or have them clamped in place - holding them works, but can be more tricky.
    - Load solvent into your brush/syringe/applicator
    - Run a bead of solvent down the join of the two bits of acrylic. You will see the solvent sucked into the join by capillary action.
    - Run several more beads down. If you try this with clear acrylic you can see the solvent sucked in to the joint. You get used to how much you need to apply.
    - Once applied, leave it for a minimum of 30 seconds, preferably a few minutes
    - It is now strong enough to handle and join to other bits etc, and after about 10 minutes it is pretty dam strong. If you have a fairly small bonding area I would leave it longer than 10 minutes before fitting/tapping etc.
    - It gains absolute strength after 24 hours - 600 pounds of force per square inch!


    It leaves absolutely no marks because there is no solvent left in the join after it has bonded it, is easy to apply, leaves a perfectly clean join and is super strong :) Oh and it doesn't make you high and feel funny like Tensol :p

    You can see why it doesn't leave marks with a simple test - put some on your finger. It will make it feel very cold, and within a few seconds it will have evaporated.

    You can also do a really cool trick - dip a brush in it and then just leave the brush for about 30 seconds to a minute - crystals will start to grow on the brush, getting about 2mm long.
     
  7. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    Those panels are sexy.
    I say neither button cap or rivet. Find some blacked hex head bolts.:D
     
  8. The boy 4rm oz

    The boy 4rm oz Project: Elegant-Li

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    Definitely needs to be the button head screws mate.
     
  9. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Yep, decision made - button heads:)
    They should be here today or tomorrow the latest.

    I have been thinking about the color fo the panels: should I powder coat all matte black or maybe frame black, main panels on some brighter color, like gun metal or dark grey then cover panels on black again? Then those gaps between would be more visible...
    What do you guys think about colors?
     
  10. oliverw92

    oliverw92 What's a Dremel?

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    Satin black, not matte black. Matte doesn't look that great in my opinion.
     
  11. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    OK, do you know where I could see those? I need to see the diffference between them...

    Do you remember Aluchill? Built by NysoO? That had a nice black, I thought that was matte.. would this be satin then?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 5 Aug 2010
  12. Editor22

    Editor22 E22 | Hex-Gear

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    I'm sure I read somewhere in the log that it was satin :) but that was a long time ago :p

    Great log so far Phinix glad to see another Hindleys user :D
     
  13. slackerXL

    slackerXL www.SlackerXL.com

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    besides the looks...
    there's also the whole dust issue
    ever tried to clean an electrostatic painted dusty mat black interior?
    satin is much more convenient and quite good-looking at the same time...
     
  14. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Cool. Now, can someone show me satin black powder coat on pc case? Is the one above a satin?
    I need to read again whole log to make sure it is, cause I want exactly that color:)
     
  15. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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  16. Guest-23315

    Guest-23315 Guest

    Im pretty sure you cant get a truely matte finish with powder coating, only satin, because of the actually coating and melting process..
     
  17. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    That's fantastic, satin it is then! :)
    I LOVE how the powdercoat looks on those NysoO's photos - so "thick" and smooooooth:D

    I got all the screws I ordered - all small M3 for panels and for panel acrylic windows. Also I had to order huge M6 screws for my sweet feet, cause original oones were to short for this extra thick bottom acrylic panel, so I got countersunk screws. I drilled out some acrylic using countersunk drill bit and now feet look sooooo sweet.. But I will show it on weekend's update! :D
    Also what I haven't showed is, I got new mobo tray, cause old one didn't cut it:)
    I did few things so this weekend's update should be sagnificant... I hope you guys gonna like it;)
     
  18. DBA

    DBA I do my modding with a spoon

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    I've got my case powder coated in the same black satin as the aluchill case. I can highly recommend it since it looks and feels so much better than matt black (or any other spray paint for that matter) also, even after a few years of good use, the paint haven't got a single scratch!
     
  19. phinix

    phinix RIP Waynio...

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    Cool, thanks for confirming this:thumb:

    Now I know that satni is the color I want.

    Now, should I use second color for main panels and then satin for top covers? Or other way around?
    I was thinkin gunmetal color for main panels, then satin black covers, but maybe other way around?
    Maybe some other dark grey color? Or any other color?
    What do you guys think - what color would look good with satin black and yellow acrylic?
    I see grey, gunmetal or sth similar, but maybe something else?
     
  20. Dark~3nergy

    Dark~3nergy what was dat sandvich ?

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    awesome case you have here ! i really like the side panels !
     

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