I’m sorry guys but this is a really long post. I’ve been trying to solve this problem in what little spare time I’ve had over the past two months but have had zero luck and need some help. A few months ago I moved my room around and switched where my PC is to the other side of the room and to a new wall socket. Everything went fine, I moved the PC, connected it up and it posted as normal. The next day I switch it on and the displays wouldn't find a signal, they just keep flashing between ANALOG/DIGITAL and eventually switch them selves off. The PC sounds like it boots and posts but I can't tell for sure because I can't see. The reason I think it does though is because there are no beeps to tell me something’s wrong, the fans spin up and I hear the drives read as they would when the PC is booting. To finally get it to boot I have to pull the kettle lead and leave it with no power for five or ten minutes, after which it will begin to boot but before it gets to the windows loading screen it will display a second "Jmicron Technologies" screen telling me "Over clock failed: Try again or Revert to defaults?": I haven't overclocked anything on my rig what so ever..... Initially I suspected my own stupidity: My PC was connected to the wall socket through two multi-tap extensions (yes, I know, DUUUUH). So I rectified this and plugged it straight through a single extension, still no joy. Ok, maybe it's my extension, so I bought a new 8way 4m Belkin surge protected multi-tap: STILL no joy. The only way I've been able to use the PC without having to pull the kettle lead and wait fifteen minutes before I try to boot is by keeping both the PSU and the multi-tap switched off when I'm not using the PC which is irritating, especially recently as nearly half the time It wont post and requires a restart. So, after work yesterday I cracked my PC open and began checking connections and cleaning clogged fans/nooks/crannies/etc. All the connections are fine, nothing was loose. I also reconnected my new Belkin multi-tap to the old wall socket I was using before I moved my PC. After finishing up and putting my Pc back together, I used it for a few hours and then shut it down without switching off the PSU at it’s own rocker switch or switching the multi-tap off. I wake up this morning, switch it on and: ANALOG/DIGITAL. I’m getting really friggin annoyed about this and can’t figure out what the hell is wrong. Any help you guys can give me would be amazing and thank you for taking the time to read this epic story in advance. +Rep for all help as usual! Here’s my full spec: CPU: Intel Core 2Duo E6750 2.67ghz (Un-clocked) Mobo: Asus P5KC Ram: 2gig OCZ Reaper Ram 1066mhz (2x1gig) (Un-clocked) PSU: Antec Tru Power Trio 650w GFX: ATI Saphire HD4890 1gig (Connected via one six pin molex and one four pin molex) (Un-clocked) Case: Antec P180B Display: 2x Samsung synch master 206BW 20” 2ms CPU fan: Arctic freezer 7 pro HD1: WD Raptor 150gb Sata 2 HD2: Samsung spin point 500gb Optical drive: Generic Samsung IDE DVDr +/- Dual layer
Sounds to me like the PSU's on it's last legs, see if you can borrow 1 , all you'll need to connect is the CPU header and the 24 pin , no need to dismantle the PC. As you've already said, once it boots everything works fine ,so i would initially point the finger at the PSU. If you can boot and then reboot a few times as normal then it's problem solved...Let us know how you're getting on
Hey man, thanks a lot for the help. I was beginning to think as much. Borrowing a PSU is proving problematic though. I'll have to either pull my PSU or disconnect it and have the test PSU out on the side for the test otherwise when I leave the power running to the PSU overnight and I switch it on in the morning with only the CPU header and the 24 pin connected I'll have no way of knowing if it's booted properly without the GFX and HD's powered up to show me it's booted....if you get me. I'll definitely let you know though. This is becoming a sharper and sharper pain in the ass.
you only need it to post even if it starts throwing errors at you, then hit the reset switch a few times just to see if it kicks in. If it does with out having the 15 min lay down period you'll know that the PSU is the problem, you can then connect everything thing else up and give it a proper road test, if it all works then it's job done.
