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Project "Beanie's Vapo-Li" Window Pics - 26 September 04

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by MrBean, 5 Jul 2004.

  1. ModKid

    ModKid What's a Dremel?

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    get your motherboard protective bag, put the mobo in there, seal it up with tape. put it in your freezer for some time, 8 hours or so.

    as soon as you get it out, get a plyer and carefully pull the northpole off. Don't worry nothing could go wrong as long as you are carefull. /edit, hrmms small fragile chipset. Well i mean it is possible, i ripped the bga sinks off my 9800pro and the card still worked.

    to be save, get all of the things out of your freezer, crank that baby up to lightspeed and make sure the mobo is really frozen. If you do it quickly, but gently, the chipset would survive. If not :dremel: well then you'll have to buy a new one, but i mean wcing the chipset looks nicer :waah:

    The lightspeed? Im in discussion for selling the vapo, then i need to speak with asetek for the LS and then im getting one :)
     
  2. MrBean

    MrBean Minimodder

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    Ok, I have removed these pics, as I have decided on a different approach for mounting the rad. Sorry about this, getting some issues from Photobucket about bandwidth limits exceeded etc.....

    See page 4 for alternate rad/mounting etc.

    Thanx everyone.

    edited MrBean 26 July 2004
     
    Last edited: 26 Jul 2004
  3. ModKid

    ModKid What's a Dremel?

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    be sure to tap a hole in the reservoir. the bottom is 1cm thick. You can drill a hole safely up to 5 a 6mm into the bottom and tap it. when you add your tubing to the reservoir, and have a screw fixed onto the bottom and into the aluminum bottom of your case, it is 100% stable.

    It's what I did with my reservoir
     
  4. kill_me_quick

    kill_me_quick Big and Blue

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    That seems like a really good way of keeping it clean, would it be possible to get the rad in the vapo housing as well, or is that asking too much of the space in there?
     
  5. ModKid

    ModKid What's a Dremel?

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    that would prolly be useless for the cooling capacity of the radiator, cuz the inside of the lightspeed is quite hot, with another heatsource in there ( the rad so to speak ) would not get cooled enough to make it efficient.

    bean to be honest with you, get rid of that radiator and get your self a 120mm black ice pro. If you pay this amount of money for your case and hardware, why not spend some more for the cooling.
     
  6. MrBean

    MrBean Minimodder

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    Exactly just that......I would be able to fit the rad in there with careful planning, but secondary heat from the LS Condensor would become a prob.

    I was considering that, but this should be sufficient for cooling just the GFX GPU. I know it is not the best, but should be ok....I will check it during operation, and if crappy, will replace it with Black-Ice Pro :) Thanx for the heads-up, ModKit!

    The pump will not be used either, I will order an Eheim 1048 tomorrow from my friend Arthur over at www.synapsys.co.za, he stocks most watercooling goodies in South Africa.....I decided not to risk my system on that crappy Heto pump.... :)

    Should have the pump Tuesday eve, so, in the meantime, I will prepare the case and drill a few holes.

    Thanx for the tip concerning the reservoir, I was considering drilling 2X 3mm holes, and tapping them with a metric-fine tap. That way it would be very secure, even during transport.

    I'll keep you guys posted!
     
  7. MrBean

    MrBean Minimodder

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    Hello Everyone,
    Ok, a small update...we need to get these small things out of the way, before we can focus on the big picture.....at least that is my side of the story.

    Thanx to ModKit who reminded me, I have drilled the base of my reservoir with 1st a 1mm pilot hole, around 5mm from the edge, and 10mm deep. Then I used a 2.5mm drill, and drilled it to 10mm deep. I did not tap it, as I use longer than standard 15mm case screws (metric coarse thread) and they cut a nice thread in the base of the reservoir.....some pics...

    here
    [​IMG]
    Yip, the hand belongs to me...... :)

    Today I have received the last of my problem components, namely the Eheim 1048 which I so gladly wanted.

    Here is a shot to show it's size relative to a Asetek reservoir, and the Waterchill GPU block I will be using......

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 26 Jul 2004
  8. MrBean

    MrBean Minimodder

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    Note the standard Eheim-type fittings, which is ok, but not easy to use in this type of application, I prefer the Industrial o-ring push-lock type Festo fittings....

    [​IMG]

    The Eheim 1048 uses a 1/4" BSP fitting on the top (discharge), and a 3/8" BSP on the inlet. Festo 10mm fittings have a 1/4" BSP thread, so, the top is a direct fit, while on the inlet I use a simple 3/8" to 1/4" brass reducer, and mount the fittings, so we have the final result....

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 26 Jul 2004
  9. MrBean

    MrBean Minimodder

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    Here is a pic of the cable I did last night, I felt a re-route was needed, as it looked ugly......a little better....

    [​IMG]

    Finally, for tonight, this is the Madcat VTT memory voltage fix, I used his circuit diagram, but assembled my own components. This helped me push my Mushkin Level II blacks from 220fsb 2-2-2-5 timings up to a quite good 245fsb 2-2-2-5 timing setup. That is DDR490 100% stable at incredibly tight timings.... :naughty:

    For those that don't know, this fixes the VTT tracking problem on the Max3 board where it would not track correctly over 2.80Vmem, which makes the higher Vmem settings not useable. This fix tracks correctly to exactly 1/2 of Vmem, and does so automatically...no need to adjust pots. :D

    [​IMG]

    Ok guys, any bright ideas where I can mount my pump, and reservoir, to keep things really clean, and simple? Come on, feedback will be appreciated, and I need your views on this.

    Best regards,
    MrBean.
     
  10. sinizterguy

    sinizterguy Dark & Sinizter

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    For pump and watercooling sys install tips have a good close look at Nexxo's project log over here -> Project Metaversa

    The whole watercooling loop in that mod can be removed without moving anything else.
     
  11. Tulatin

    Tulatin The Froggy Poster

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    Hmm... a little thought about your water cooling... Reverse the direction of flow, so that hot water goes to the rad, then the res. It's not good to have hot water sitting in one spot, as i'm finding out now with a heavily modified hydrocool. You're best off to go Res->Pump->block->Rad however... this may be impossible with how clean you want your case to be.
     
  12. matrixx

    matrixx What's a Dremel?

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    Extremely nice cable management there. I would like to know where you get the cable braid though as the supplier I used is no longer in business. If you could provide a list of suppliers you used I would appreciate it. Keep up the good work.
     
  13. TroopA

    TroopA What's a Dremel?

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    nice to see some south africans crawling into the limelight.

    First time ive really sat and looked over yer case bean, very impressive on the cable routing. Love it.

    With the watercooling, id keep the flow the same, except your diagram is wrong, how does the water mystically get cooled by the pump :p Anyway id try keep it like that pump below rez up topside. The ultimate.. and probably no point seing as its just gfx.. would be a dual radiator bypass... IE, (and someone has prolly already done this.. but i just thaught of the idea now) From the gfx to the radiator to the res to the pump back thru the radiator and out, so it avoids building up hot water in your res like Tulatin was saying.

    Obviously thats just gona create a tubing nightmare tho... hardly on the neat and tidy side.

    Is there enough space behind the motherboard tray to route the cables from the pump below out from the motherboard tray side up and to the gfx ? Itd prolly mean mounting yer res in the front for neatness.
     
  14. Tulatin

    Tulatin The Froggy Poster

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    the other option is to have the pump shoot into the res and suck water through the circuit. In theory this should produce better temperatures, as the water is moving more in the res and should dissapate some heat there.
     
  15. MrBean

    MrBean Minimodder

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    Hello Everyone,
    Thanx for the feedback...quite a debate going here, but rather good, as a few options gets looked at then.

    Ok, what I have found to work good in the past, is having my huge Eheim 1260 pump pump into the rad, then waterblocks, because the 1260 is a monster, and add a bit of heat to the water.

    In this case with the small 1048, however, I am sure you guys are correct in that I need to go res-pump-wb-rad-res. This way the rad will be more efficient, as there is a bigger delta between in/out. Mmmm...maybe not, as wb-res-pump-rad will have a bigger temp delta.....let's study this a little, and I would appreciate some more debate around this topic. Thanx guys.

    Once this project is done, I have a rather neat Project going to do a special watercooling setup on my wife's gaming box, with a P4800C-Deluxe, Antarctica cpu block, std Asetek blocks for the NB and GFX, and some nice Dual-BIX rad action......but, this for later...lol...

    Hmmm....no need to do this, as I will use the 220V that switches the VapoLS compressor on for this, so the pump-power gets routed inside the VapoLS housing to the rear, all hidden......will take a pic tonight to show what I mean.... :)

    Mmm....dunno if this would help you at all Matrixx, but I am using HellermanTyton (South Africa) to source the megamyte sleeving, as well as cable ties and craddles.

    Something to remember: "When it is good, it is wonderful, when bad, it is experience"
     
    Last edited: 14 Jul 2004
  16. TheGreenOne3589

    TheGreenOne3589 What's a Dremel?

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    very nice job, the wireing looks very clean, i also like your method of cooling :D
     
  17. ModKid

    ModKid What's a Dremel?

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    u drilled 1cm? damn man, your lucky you didn't go all the way through the bottom :duh: :p.
     
  18. MrBean

    MrBean Minimodder

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    No, not lucky, just carefull measurement......I drilled at the point where the base actually overlaps with the wall of the reservoir, about 5mm from the side, and 2.5mm wide, so I could drill almost 3cm into it without a prob...lol...

    Well noticed though! :thumb:

    Talk to you all later.
     
  19. Tulatin

    Tulatin The Froggy Poster

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    It's just a personal thing - why i suggested the change. I've found that temps will rise over time if you keep dumping hot water back into the res. Albeit, this shouln't be much of an issue if the Rad can handle it, yet, i have seen a 1-2c increase in temps over an hour because of it.
     
  20. MrBean

    MrBean Minimodder

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    Typically temps will increased in a closed-loop system like this, until it reaches a point of equilibrium.Even if the water in the reservoir is slightly warmer than normal, you will find that after it went through the pump, then the rad, it should be slightly lower than if you went res-pump-wb-rad-res for example, purely because the rad will be slightly more efficient with a larger delta between water and cooling air across the fins. That is the theory anyway....

    In practice the difference is neglegible. Surely 1 or 2 Deg C will not yield any performance increase in terms of overclockability, you need to start looking at 10-15 Deg C changes before it will affect you.

    Played with this quite a lot when overclocking, eg. my 9800XT can do 500 on the gpu with ambient temp water (20 DegC), and chilled water would yield around 530 on the gpu (water=1-2 Deg C), and with the VapoPE on the gpu, it can do around 552-560 Mhz. So in this case, every 20 DegC drop in temp gave another 30 odd Mhz increase in clocks.....so by looking at a 2 Deg C change, we should theoretically only be seeing 2-3 Mhz lower clockability...

    That will not give anything more than 20-40 points in 3dMark01......as I said, neglegible, unless you are sitting at 25 980 or something....lol...

    But, I like where this is going, keep contributing, it can evolve into a nice debate. Like to know what the watercooling gurus out there thinx! As I said before, I have been doing extreme cooling since 1998 'ish, Celeron 300A ring any bells.... :) So always nice to exchange ideas on this interesting topic.
     

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