I may have given some of you bad e-mail addresses to get a hold of Sharka. The one you should use is sales@sharkacorp.com. If you use the sales@sharkacomputer.com it is likely they never got it. Sorry for any problems. EDIT: I don't know which one is which So why not try both
Top Nurse: Glad you like the case. I saw the same thread @ the Aqua-Computer forum about converting a Aquaero LCD to a VFD. If memory serves, there was no conclusion reached one way or another (you could kill a nice LCD attempting it).I am looking forward to Sharka's Aqua-Computer shipment. I plan on placing a "token order" Monday (some fittings or a fan grill) just to see how things go as I have never ordered from them before. Firehed: Yes, I will need to use the stock reservoir cap as a template. My concern is countersinking the 6-bolt holes. They need to be like 1-2mm from the edge of the cap. Perhaps I won't countersink and just use metric low-profile hexhead bolts (the type used with all AC gear). We will see. The other issue is thickness, I will need both the stock cap and the red one . That means the reservoir will need to be lowered down into the case to get the red acrylic cap flush with the top of the case..OR I could polish the edge of the red acrylic circle and let it sit (it's thickness) above the case. I checked, it would then be flush with the 6-outer mounting bolts. That would be different. I don't think I have seen anyone do that. Another we will see.
Does the res have the same fitting dimensions as the aquatube? If so Leftclicks.co.uk can supply the coloured plexi covers you want. They threw a couple in free for me with my recent orders. I've finally got all the kit I need to complete my rig. Like you I have an Aquero. I was wondering where you are going to put the other temp. sensors and how you were planning to fix them? Apologies if you've already covered this in the thread. Keep up the great work
The last post was from someone who said that flashing the bios with the VFD version didn't harm a LCD version other than making the back lighting not work and re-flashing back to the LCD version wasn't a problem. So it appears that a conversion is quite possible and they of course sell both LCD and VFD screens as well. This originally came up a while back because I was going to buy an Aquaero LT version (has no screen, mountings, or faceplate) and wanted to know if there was a way to add on a LCD or VFD display at a later date. See this A-C thread. I'm sure you have machined plexi before, but I would just suggest that you use very sharp tools, flood the part with a constant water stream (machining coolant would be better) while you do it, and go very slow. It might take more than 2 tools to do the job if you are using HSS. Solid carbide tools would be better, but they need a very rigid setup so you don't break them. BTW, that liquid in the cooler looks strangely reminiscent of Coca-Cola. Now that sounds like a cool thing to have coke on tap!
I kinda like the latter idea about letting it sit above a bit. I believe the acrylic will be 1/8" thick (~3mm IIRC) since Chris said he only has 1/4" and 3/8" in clear and two others and I know red wasn't one of them. I kinda like the look of the standard AC-type bolts rather than those extra-wide looking things. Although I personally prefer the rounded-top things (button head I think) over the stock ones even more, but that's just personal preference.
The bolts I am talking about are hexhead but, low-profile. A picture of standard Metric and low-profile. The only place I know of to get them is http://www.mcmaster.com/ The button-head bolts are cool, but as I have not used them anywhere else in the project they might look out of place.
You know I never noticed it, but you are 100% correct. It does look like a Coca-Cola add. If I have something on tap, it won't be Coca-Cola.
No, the Innovatek is not the same size (OD) as the AquaTube. Temp. sensors will be: Ambient (that one is done) Reservoir (also finished) Case Pump
You got a part number for them? I need to order some more stuff from McMaster Carr anyways so it would be great to add some of these bolts to the list.
92855A408 perhaps? Not sure, but I think that's the right style. Search for socket cap, find socket cap screws on the list, choose "low" as style. I know the Aquatube at least uses M4 screws, 8 and 12mm in length IIRC (longer for the thru-plexi screws) Although looking there, the flat socket-cap would look very nice countersunk. /edit - wow, even their own link really sucks. But the PN should still work.
Did I read a while back that you are using the same in-the-coolant sensors I am using from Innovatek? Are you going to just stretch the 6mm ID over their fitting or do you have another plan? I was thinking of removing the sensor part from the union and machining a new union that matches the 6mm ID. Just don't know if it is worth the trouble. BTW, something you might be interested in if you haven't already gotten your GPU coolers: It appears that there may be a SLI version of the Twinplex's making it's way to the market. The rumour is that it will be thinner and of a different design to get better cooling. I suspect that it may be available for sale in about 2 weeks. AFAIK there are no prices available as of yet, but if I had to guess I would estimate about $60-80 USD.
My loop is finished TN. It's all 8/10mm Black Tygon and compression fittings. The only in-H20 sensor I am using is from Innovatek, but it's in the reservoir. I thought about using the "inline" type as well, but it made a complicated H20 loop even more so. It went by the way-side.
Preview I embarked on the case lighting setup, but I changed my mind (I do this a lot) about the switches I was going to use to control the former. So, new switches on order (SPST-toggle type). BUT, While the machine's side panels where removed I came up with an idea having nothing to do with lighting..Instead more Aqua-Computer gear goes under the knife (well, Dremel actually). I uploaded the pictures and will update Sunday night.. Until then.
Well I had to cheat after you said you uploaded them. I'm sure I missed a few, but still... Very original
I think i kno what your upto with your AC grill i wont spill the beans though (Im PMing you now tell me if im right)
Sharka update Just a quick update as to the status of Sharka's A-C stock shipment. The shipment was delayed out of Austria and shipped last Thursday for reasons beyond control of IT-Trade or Sharka (i.e. shipping company schedules). No one is happy about this (especially me) and I'm sure it is but a minor delay. The shipment is currently inroute to Munich, Germany and will be placed on a direct flight to LAX presumably Monday or Tuesday. In regards to my previous statement of delivery I was relying on an assumption by Wes that the shipment had been picked up as arranged which should have gotten it here by Monday April 25th at the latest. Unbeknownst to anyone here in the USA Franz at IT-Trade had called the freight company Wednesday morning asking why they had not picked up the shipment and arrangements were made to pick it up, but they didn't pickup the shipment till Thursday. The local German based freight company here in Los Angeles apologized and said that it was expected in Munich by Monday and will go on a jet to LAX Monday or Tuesday. The long and short of it is that we probably won't see the stuff till the end of next week. While this may not be a delay of consequence to you I was really bummed as I had expected to be in modding heaven by mid-week. I suppose that this will become done right the next time or Wes will find another custom's broker to move his goods out of Europe. It has been said that beginnings are a delicate time so I assume this is just a bump in the road and the stuff is definitely on the way per everyone concerned.
For Shame Firehed, hacking into my photobucket (kidding). I will update later tonight. I think the mod will work out well..
