Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by modsquad, 27 Jul 2008.
$80 for a sheet of copper??? Never realized it cost that much.
You and ME both... but what would a project called CopperHead be without an abundance of that metal...
I am FIN for tonight guys.. Need sleep..
Never chunk out copper, gets premium price at salvage. Even the crooks figured that out, just arrested some nut here for stealing 5 grand worth of copper wire.
I like the contrast the polished copper has in my black case and black Asus mobo. Keep up the good work on Copperhead. Now where is that can of Brasso???
Looking real nice, can't wait to see where it's going.
$80 is pretty cheap considering that I paid $650 for my sheet.
thanks for the gfxblock props earlier, and the link
Thanks Langer.. I doubt what you purchased was "sheet" for that price it must be "block"..
@ Darkraven - you know, vinegar and a little salt makes a very-good copper cleaner
McMaster is very quick and my copper sheet came in yesterday.. I was stoked and made my Aqua-Computer aquatube mounting plate
still needs a bit of work, but it came out pretty-nice..
OMFG THAT IS LUSH!!!
can i have the copper left over bits lol they looks '****' tastic
Awesome project modsquad glad to see you are back at it!
That looks killer mate, well done.
I was offered one of those reservoirs form AC, but my design doesn't have a res, so I turned it down.
However I would incorporate a "CopperTube." Have you ever seen the copper version they made a while back... I WANT! I asked AC to fabricate another for me (at whatever the cost) but they said that it was a pain to fabricate and turned me down.
*click for link to AC forum*
The copper I purchased was indeed a sheet, not a block, only it was 4'x8'x1/8".
Thanks Langer, yes the reservoir is one of there limited runs (I think they made a few hundred).. I do remember that copper version, I think it came out about 2-3 years ago (another limited run).. I would love to have one, it would be perfect for our projects.. No reservoir whatsoever in your projects loop? Having the extra water a reservoir holds can really help cooling, I always use them..
Looking forward to your next update..
@ x06jsp : good to hear from you and thanks for following
@ dbruguera : there will be nothing remaining, for the price of the stuff I will use each and every inch
Who doesn't like copper lol. I was thinking of doing a copper and black themed myself later down the track. How do you find it to work with?
My last case I made had bits of copper on it. I can't tell you how many times I nearly burnt my fingers when sanding the stuff on a belt sander. Damn conductivity! Other than that, it's very soft and malleable. And never touch the stuff with your bare hands. NEVER.
It's a dream to work with as long as you are wearing oven mits, haha.
It's really nice to file, sand, and especially bend. The malleability of copper lets you make very drastic bends in it, with proper tools, with little visible stretching.
The softness of it simply makes it really great to form and work with.
What's really crazy is how something as simple as a thumb print will create a very visible oxidization mark in mins. Which is why you don't want to remove the protective layer, or better yet spray it with a very thin rubber/plastic coating.
Patina in 48 hours
Patina in 48 hours
Check this out:
Having never worked with copper before, I have to say I was very surprised by the look of my aquatube mounting plate today..
I guess the copper used within the Lian Li case is treated with "something"..
The only product I can find is:
----- $32.00 bucks a can------- the road of tears....
So, I guess the drill will be fabricate all the copper parts for the project, clean them and then spray on this expensive stuff..
I was "so happy" with the results from the home-brew vinegar and salt cleaner, only to find out it is very short-lived..
I love the look of clean "new penny" copper. In my mind I thought I would have perhaps a year before the patina would show.. Not to be..
goodnight from a pensive
I think that if you sand the copper once with a high grit sandpaper, thereafter use normal clear coat, it will stay like a "new penny". The main reason the copper oxidises is that oxygen reaches it and the clear coat would suppress that.
But by the way: very nice mod you are creating
Oxidation sucks doesn't it lol. I touched the base of my Apogee GTX by accident and now it has a thumb print on the base lol.
Don't want to do any-sort of sanding ( not even 2000grit wet sanding ).. The copper sheet I have from McMaster Carr is finished in what they call "satin".. It is a close-match to the finish Lian Li does on there cases.. I have done a bit of painting in my day.. That $32 "rattle-can" is most-likely cheaper (and EZer) than PPG speed clear shot with my Badger M400.. I have NO PLANS for custom paint for this project.. I don't want to pick up an airbrush..
So, the road stays the same
fabricate-- clean-- clear coat via "rattle-can"...
BOY, what am I doing.. I have to go to go to work in like 12 hours.. I should not be drinking beers and typing @ you.. (but I am)...
STOP-- Good Night
O-ya: even more stuff on the way from Performance PC.. Hank and his posse are taking VERY good care of me..
that's it.. I am FIN..
I would try it on an off cut before you rely on it. See if they will let you have a demo at the shop before purchase. Explain what you wanna do and they may have some other suggestions.
I found this link you may find useful:
thanks for the link.. I am on vacation next week, I hope to get some work done.. expect no-less than two updates in the up-coming week..
I have lots of parts and ideas for the project.. It's just a matter of implementing da' stuff..
Here is the first of two (hope) updates this week..
Pump Mount.. I am using an Eheim 1046 in an chrome plated Aqua-Computer Full Metal Jacket for this project. It would seem Aqua-Computer has stopped production on these FMJ's.. Shame on AC, these are (where) very-cool units. Stock Eheim 1046 or AC aquastream pumps are not pretty (IMHO). The FMJ makes them pretty.. I will say no-more on the subject..
and it's position
In life, we have to learn from our mistakes. In my last project I did not plan-ahead for the placement of the video card. It caused a major rev2 in Soylent Green, I don't want to go down that road again..
The Nvidia GTX280 "reference board" layout.. Standard Graphics Card Dimensions:
Height: 4.376 inches (111 mm)
Length: 10.5 inches (267 mm)
Width: Dual-slot (# 2 and 3)
That is a "long" card.. Space is at a premium. I will have to "go" with a 25mm fan behind the radiator to conserve space.
I had planned on using a 38mm fan behind the radiator .. I will lose more than a few CFM's.. BUt..
It has to-be..
Lets rap this up:
These eheim pumps carry a (5) year warranty. It would make no-sense to cut the cord and kill than warranty..
add some -- U guessed it, C-strip:
Man.. I am drunk..
Glad I finished this update..
Expect another in a few days...
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