AMS CF 1009 gtower These are well constructed Aluminum cases, but I've never been a fan of acrylic bezels. That was the first thing to go. My initial approach was a Diamond plate bezel. (pics somewhere) While modding an Addtronics 6896, out of curiousity I held its bezel in the front of the AMS. "Its the same width" in fact, other than length, its a perfect match. I contacted Jim at coolcases who sells Addtronics and asked if he had any scratch and dent bezels. He reluctantly didn't want to give up anything, ("theyre my spares!") but since he also sells the AMS, my request sounded intriguing. Jims cool like that. So I got one 6896 and 7896 bezel. Next is what I refer to as a Frankenstein mod. Chop up two bezels to create one. Since length was the only issue, it wasn't terribly hard to accomplish this. Question: What are the two big holes in the bezel for?! Answer: I'm sure you've already figured it out, but there is a slight twist.
Bean bag toss holes. I'll remember that one Phire Heres my bezel combo after Epoxying the two bezels Question: Ok then, where will the 5.25 drive go? Isn't the square opening too small? Answer: Yea, but why be normal?...lol btw: You could really come up with some really unique combos yourself, but the trick is finding two bezels in the same width. Your best bet is two from the same manufacturing like my approach. (You saw it here first ) The upper portion (square opening) was 1/8 higher than lower (holes). I applied several thin layers of PPG DFL 17 spot putty(autobody supply store) sanding with 400 grit paper between each application to remove any air pockets. 3 application per day, 4 hour intervals until bezels were flush. FYI: If your application developes cracks, your application is too thick. The square opening looked a bit blahhh. I need to do somthing about that. pencil outline on bezel Waterjet cut the plastic is the best solution, but we all don't own waterjets. Most of us own Dremels right? Pull out your thinnest cutting disc and make incision cuts into bezel. Be quick about it, otherwise plastic tends to melt! I bet you got a jagged edge too?..absolutely, but don't sweat it. Use a round or rounded side file and sandpaper to go over your rough edges. better yet, A Mouse sander with medium grit paper Its coming together now, but I'm not done just yet.
Looks like just one piece! And the feathery thingies are looking good as well. Keep it up (and tell me what those holes are for!!!)
This is a tin Template for machined alum bezel for PWR switch that will be made. Heavy equip recessed handle made from ABS plastic. found at local surplus store. I cut out the same 2 open handle portions in top panel and epoxied handle to panel ceiling. Filled in crevice between handle and case with PPG DFL-17 Finished with SPOT/FILLER primer. Quick Tip on fixing filler gaps I need to fill in this crevice opening Cut small piece of construction paper. Tape it to section w/ masking tape Fill in gap with spot filler. Bandage w/ masking tape. Dry for 24 hrs, then remove tape and rip off construction sand. Finish surface w/ 400 grit paper.
lookin good! some of my favorite mods are bezel mods because, imo, other than the bezels, many cases look almost the same. so if you've got a completely original front bezel and just a few other mods here and there, you're still looking pretty good!
4 pot rheostat control in top of bezel (I spy a Bulgin switch ) Changing gears, heres whats happening with the chassis after loosing the orginal factory bezel. The lower portion of the alum chassis that housed the 2, factory 92mm fan ports has been removed. An 1/8 alum plate was then installed and fastened into chassis frame with pop rivets. Here I'm using my custom made 120mm hole punch for 2, 120mm fan ports. Heres the circular cutting blade for the punch. Deburing the fan mounting holes.
This is one of the many reasons that bit-tech is my favorite modding site, there are so many people with awesome original ideas like this one. I'm really loving the work, keep it up.
