Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Monkey Puzzle, 17 Jul 2009.
I never thought I'd see an optical mod again.
Me neither long overdue. I miss a bit of old style mechanic movement in a PC case (not counting the fans or water pumps)
Small update - made a sanding jig for the resin manifold boxes - they're sanded down, but even with sanding with large plate metal with sandpaper glued to it, it's difficult to get everything exactly square, what with copper ports in the way etc, so I made a thick steel jig that would clamp around to give a perfectly flat guide that I can sand down to to give flat and square resin plenums. Should help the walnut veneer to adhere better and stop delamination hopefully!
Bits used - some 3mm thick steel 21mm(iirc) x 500mm equal angle section x 2, centre drill with 3.2mm centre drill, some equal aluminium blocks lying around to mount the steel angle section, clamps to clamp the 2 bits of steel angle together (the steel angle will clamp at both sides of the resin to give a flat plane to sand down to), m4 tap.
Clamped in place (very fiddly to clamp it all in place!), drilled and tapped;
One side of the jig/sanding guide-guard then needed cutting down to accommodate where all the copper pipes go through. This killed a large dremel diamond cutting disc and about a dozen grinding discs. Should hold up to a bit of inadvertent sanding when used as a sanding guide I guess!
Finished! Held with 2 m4 bolts, both sides tapped in m4 and level.
Did some sanding on the resin boxes/manifolds using the steel guide I made, using rotary sanding discs on a drill.
Quick mockup of the veneer, held down with sockets and spanner etc:
3rd coat of tung oil to walnut veneer test pieces - left it on quite wet this time - finally was drying after a week, had only some patches still wet. Got inpatient, put in the sun to help the final bit of drying. Came back 2 hours later and the final wet bits of tung oil had turned into these weird gummy rubbery bits on the surface. Will need to sand down this gunk and apply more. It looks light here, but this photo is taken outside on a sunny day - indoors the tone is darker. Colour looks good though, but still no depth to the finish yet when dry.
And finally, received some trinkets and baubles in the mail... Shiny!
Thanks for reading.
Sadly it seems even the newest 700w passive PSUs are not enough to deal with GPU power spikes, so ordered a corsair AX1600i PSU - 95-96% efficient between 1000-500w power draw and fan stays off below 650w power consumption, with an adjustable fan profile via micro-USB hook up and software.
Just need to decide whether to have it mounted internally (like this previous update - this is viewed from the back of the case, psu would sit with fan facing down over the lower radiator fins at the back - the alternative would be to mount the PSU outside on the back panel here above the psu hole at the bottom there (and that PSU hole covered with a veneered panel with PSU cable pass-through holes...)
It would block radiator airflow if it can run completely fanless, would aid cooling a little if the fan comes on at high loads), or attached to the back of the case (adding ~80mm to the back, which is needed to allow air to get to the case anyhow). Veering towards back-mounting atm - will give a very clean look inside the case with just a few cables from the PSU routed inside...
Also ordered an EK D5 PWM...
A lot of this update is faff.
Cat decided not to supervise.
A 25mm outer diameter steel pipe...
A sharpened 25mm OD pipe for stamping holes in the veneer for the copper ports.
Gives a nice tight fit (video):
I recast more resin on the top pipe manifold... Trying to get it so I can have this veneered manifold sit flush with the aluminium frame...
Blurry photo with cast resin on the top manifold up to the edge of the aluminium frame (if you squint hard enough it sort of looks like this).
And some sanding with the sanding guide/frame to get nice sharp edges - snowstorm:
I then needed to reattach the aluminium frame to check the cast resin level - still a mm to be taken off one side. The other side with this polished top fill port is more problematic - milling needed to tidy the 1/4" plate with 'HUSH' at the top to sit flush as the original milling for the aluminium angle leg to sit in and be bolted to it is off and needs extending by ~2mm, so new aluminium legs needed for the now repositioned countersink screw holes, new aluminium angle leg with the optical drive slit, as it sits too high atm (the drilled holes to bolt to the copper wall are 3mm of so too low on the legs, so the top edge sits too high and can't be milled to sit flush with the veneered manifold...
Fiddling around to get the fins at the top to sit high in the slots to try to get a flush fit at the top of the case between the aluminium frame and veneered manifold...
Few pics of the case with lacquered polished pipes at the side - spraying this had been difficult - the structure of 16 rows of 3 pipes curving with a flat wall behind meant in ensuring all the polished copper pipes got covered that there ending up being a lot of overspray of lacquer on the flat copper back wall and orange peel, and some overspray on the pipes at the ends.
May be able to polish this down later to reduce hopefully, but regardless the pipes catch the light beautifully, giving a copper red glow in daylight and catching salmon-white on the pipe arrays in white artificial light, that doesn't show up that well on a phone camera...
On a brighter note (pun unintended) - I jerry-rigged some lighting in just held in place with some micropore tape (the lighting strips do have 3m adhesive backing for attachment- COB LED strips (direct mounted LEDs to a PCB strip allowing more LED density compared to usual LED strips - these are around 400 LEDs/metre with a silicone diffusing coating, so much more continuous bar or light rather than specular... I tried a square strip behind the front aluminium frame - quite difficult to see the LED light strips from normal viewing angles. A full square is probably a bit too much, though will be using some very thin lower wattage 2.7mm thick LED strips rather than these, which are 8mm wide with flexible PCB strip and contact points to the sides, so should be a bit less bright. I may remove the horizontal strip at the bottom and have strips under the radiator fins at the bottom front and back to give underlighting - the light bounces off the shiny pipes, but didn't get pics yet.
The shiny backwall gives a nice infinity radiator effect, but refpect the light strips....
The effect of underlighting under the fins looks really nice.
I added the veneered wall - still unattached and looking a bit hideous here as the low tack plastic sheeting is still on it, and the veneer is still unattached (as are the venner sheets for the manifold, that have gone a bit wavy in the recent heat and are unttached still so all a bit wonky..just to give a rough idea...
Getting smoother/cleaner looking every day.
FYI: The factory sticky on most led strips come loose at gaming temps. -Of course, this town melts hot glue too.
Mmm, that could be a problem. Sorry, I mean, 3M, that could be a problem. From previously I imagine the copper gets up to maybe 45C with around 600w of heat going into the loop, the frame cooler by a fair whack (6061 aluminium is not a great heat conductor and the contact with the fins is not huge for each fin, so hopefully not an issue... We'll see I guess
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