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Project Infinity - 6th September, Up and Running.

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Da_Rude_Baboon, 21 Oct 2005.

  1. mandy_modded

    mandy_modded Minimodder

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    imho definately "Split the rads into four and space them equally over the side panel"
    it aesthetically looks better, and passive cooling would be better with the seperation allowing more air flow around each element
     
  2. Mr T

    Mr T 4 Left Into Long 3 Right

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    I agree with this one. I think they will look cool and work better separated.
     
  3. Top Nurse

    Top Nurse Minimodder

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    The four spaced elements will look nice and probably work better.
     
  4. tm36usa

    tm36usa What's a Dremel?

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    Ditto!, definitly would work better imo
     
  5. kiljoi

    kiljoi I *am* a computer king.

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    Personally, I like the 2x2 look. Then, you could add something cool in the middle.
     
  6. Gaoske

    Gaoske What's a Dremel?

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    Personally, I would consider changing the flow inside your cooling-pipes. If you make one long pipe of them all, by just using |_ _| this type of connecting, Firts of all your intake and outtake will be near each other(may be easier for your tube-routing), and second you have a longer cooling proces for the water. ok, it will flow a little faster so the difference will not be very big. But it would be better though to at least change OR your intake, OR your outtake from the first to the last coolingpipe. That should make sure the flow is equal in all the pipes and so your pipe-temps will be as well...
     
  7. papeniglio

    papeniglio Minimodder

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    Go for the equally spaced rads... Cleaner and simpler!

    Good work!
     
  8. RynoRFC

    RynoRFC What's a Dremel?

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    I don't know if this is in line with your theme for the case, but you could try mounting them vertically, one at each corner of the case. Airflow wouldn't be a problem, and you could run the pipes under the case if it was raised up on feet.
     
  9. Top Nurse

    Top Nurse Minimodder

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    ^^^ Now that is an interesting turn of events. :hehe: :hehe: Just thought about putting the radiators on the bottom of the case and they can pull double duty as case stands and radiators. Might even improve the thermal transfer depending on what it sits on.
     
  10. hitman012

    hitman012 Minimodder

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    I muchly prefer the four evenly spaced rads. Good work so far as well :thumb:
     
  11. Da_Rude_Baboon

    Da_Rude_Baboon What the?

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    Thanks for all the comments and suggestions everyone. I'm going for the four equally spaced rads unless something unexpected happens. :thumb:

    Ryno the rads in each corner wont work in with the overal theme as the the other panel needs to be kept clear for the signature mod. :naughty:

    Gaoske i assembled the rad as to the manufactures instructions but with the change in layout and orientation i was intending to change the water path to the one you suggested. Great minds think alike so they say. :wink: Hopefully in this layout i can use straight fittings and looped tubing as opposed to elbows or t-peices too. I should hopefully get some more work done on the case tonight as i didn't get the chance at the weekend.
     
  12. RynoRFC

    RynoRFC What's a Dremel?

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    Sounds exciting... I'll keep watching. *Subscribed*
     
  13. Da_Rude_Baboon

    Da_Rude_Baboon What the?

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    Apologies for the lack of updates but I’ve been a bit busy the last couple of weeks so i haven’t progressed as much as I had hoped and I am unfortunately still waiting for some parts to arrive.

    Thank you to everyone who too the time to comment on their preferred solution to my passive radiator predicament. By far the most popular choice was the 4 single radiators layout. I don’t have any pics of the marking out and hole drilling as that was covered in the previous update so I’m sure you don’t need to see it again.

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    I got two A3 sheets of funky foam for making some gaskets for the fans and radiators.

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    I cut some thin strips to go between the radiators and the side panel this acts as a spacer to stop the radiators scratching the side panel and will absorb any vibrations. A couple of holes were punched for the screws and the strip was held on with tape prior to mounting.

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    The passive radiators mounted to the side panel! Looks much better then they did before. Now I have the passive radiators mounted it’s time to concentrate on the active radiator. First of all the turbine fan which will secure the active radiator to the case.

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    I used a countersink bit on the fan mounting holes to enlarge them so….

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    …the fan grill would fit flush with the fan body. The reason why will become clear in a second.

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    The turbine fan is going to be mounted between the chassis and the removable front panel of the case. I like the look of it here as it means there is no gap between the intake plate and the turbine fan but there is also another more practical reason. The fan fits perfectly, there must be less than a 1mm gap between the fan and front panel! With the fan grill fitted the front panel would not fit properly which is why it had to be countersunk.

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    With the turbine fan fitted to the outside of the chassis it leaves enough room for the active radiator to fit between the chassis and the bottom drive cage!

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    The observant who know their Lian-Li’s will notice I have replaced the normal white edge trim around the top drive bays with some black u-channel moulding. Its probably the simplest mod I’ve done but its surprisingly effective.

    That’s it for this update and hopefully there will not be such a big gap between updates this time but I will leave you with a pic of the case to keep you going.

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    Don't forget to leave your comments, complaints or suggestions in the Project Infinity discussion thread.
     
  14. ShinySwede

    ShinySwede What's a Dremel?

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    damn i love the layout of the passive rads....good job man....but wont it make things tricky when ur doing the tubing?
     
  15. needmorstuff

    needmorstuff What's a Dremel?

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    ooh - what about a crossflow fan thing... bit of a boost when you need it? I am sure you can get the one that is designed for those passive rads... or what about one of the stacker ones? you could put it on a fan header on the mobo and use MBM or other to kick it in times of full load..
     
  16. needmorstuff

    needmorstuff What's a Dremel?

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    holy thread resurrection :(
     
  17. Heero195

    Heero195 What's a Dremel?

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    Indeed, where did the thread go ?
     
  18. Da_Rude_Baboon

    Da_Rude_Baboon What the?

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    I think its time to blow the dust off this project log and post some updates. :D There has been a rather lengthy delay due to waiting for parts to be machined followed by the mother of all RMA’s. The PC has been up and running since June and having a working PC has taken some of the urgency away from pushing the mod to completion. Anyways update time!

    One of the main features of the watercooling loop was going to be a custom pump assembly which would allow you to connect a CSP-Mag pump directly to an Aquatube. The idea and design came about from a thread on Wizd forums with ScopEDog coming up with the original idea of using an adapter plate and Starbuck3733T producing a rather neat design. The design attached onto the bottom of the Aqua Tube and converted its G1/8” connections into a single G1/4” connection, allowing unrestricted flow into the pump.

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    Once the design was made it was then a case of finding someone to make the thing. ScopEDog had suggested getting in touch with Enak, who he had worked with before when making his stunning Cerberus water block and after seeing the design Enak agreed to help.

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    The adapter plate straight from Enaks workshop fitted to the Aquatube. The threaded holes used to connect the adapter to the tube were there already.

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    CSP-Mag pump.

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    The CSP-Mag which will connect directly to the adapter plate via a G1/4” nipple connector shown in the 2nd picture.

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    The pump, adapter plate and aquatube all fitted together to form the complete pump assembly. The connector to the right is a banjo fitting which splits the G1/4” fitting into two G1/8” return feeds to the aquatube.

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    Side on view of the complete assembly.

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    Rear view.

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    Side view of the case with pump assembly installed.

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    Front view of the case.

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    A more detailed view of the pump in place.

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  19. Da_Rude_Baboon

    Da_Rude_Baboon What the?

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    Now I had all my components together it was time to get the hardware fitted and do some leak testing.

    Hardware fitted minus PSU and cabling.

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    It’s a tight fit up there!

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    The loop from another angle.

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    The rear of the case showing the tubing running from the active radiator at the front of the case, behind the mother board to the passive radiator. There is a loop of tubing connecting the ball valves at the rear of the case as I did the initial leak test with out the passive radiator fitted so I could keep a close eye on the fittings which would be hidden with the side panel on.

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    Close up of the return feed to the aquatube.

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    The tubing running in and out of the active radiator.

    Once I had all the hardware installed and the tubing connected it was time for an overnight leak test minus without the passive radiator fitted. The leak test went with out a hitch so the following evening I fitted the passive radiator.

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    Front shot of the case with the passive radiator fitted. The black tape on the intake fan is to hold the fan grill in place. The front panel is such a tight fit that it will not sit flush with the drive bay covers if screws are used! The nose cone is also missing from the fan as the girlfriend kicked it off by accident when the case was sitting on the floor.

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    The different sections of the passive radiator are connected with loops of tubing.

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    Side on shot of the installed passive radiator.

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    The passive radiator can be isolated from the rest of the loop by the two ball valve connectors. This means I can remove the side panel with out having to drain the entire loop. It also aids bleeding and draining.

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    The use of elbow fittings allows a short length of tubing to be used between the ball valve and radiator. I was originally going to use straight fittings and a loop of tubing but even with the super flexible tygon it was hard to do so with out kinks and it did not look as elegant.

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    The rear fan has been enlarged from 80mm to 120mm and another one of MNPCtechs billet aluminium fan grills fitted to match the front of the case.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Da_Rude_Baboon

    Da_Rude_Baboon What the?

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    A close up of the ball valve.

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    Two shots of the rear of the case.

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    Once the hardware was fitted the wiring knightmare began! Trying to fit the PSU and all the cabling and keep everything inside neat is proving to be extremely difficult as space is getting rather tight. I am happy to report though that the loop is performing extremely well, its is almost silent and is keeping my heavily overclocked hardware nice and cool.

    The next item to tackle is the side window, which if it turns out as I plan, might be rather special. Judging by the rate I work on this mod I should be writing the next update around the time your reading the review of Duke Nukem Forever. :D

    In the mean time you should check out the project logs of ScopEDog and Starbuck3733T who helped with my project.

    ScopE’s Cerberus and FRAMEstore Node 23 projects.
    Starbuck’s project Goliath.
     
    Last edited: 5 Sep 2006

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