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Case Mod - In Progress Project: Isis Ascendant - October 27th, Crystal indicator lights

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by longwing, 4 Jun 2009.

  1. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    You are not cooking meth in a fiberglass bathtub, so your paint booth is not the worst fire hazard I've seen a tenant make. :hehe:
    For the aged paint look I do the black as a base coat with the metal paint drybrushed on.
     
  2. longwing

    longwing New Member

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    @Bad_cancer - You're just jealous of my superior cardboard and duct tape mastery. :D Seriously though, thanks for the encouragement.

    @Cheapskate - In a fiberglass bathtub? I... they really... The mind, it boggles.

    As for drybrushing, I've tried that tactic before, and my experience is that it yields significantly better results, but only if you're both patient and skilled. I am neither patient nor skilled, so I compensate with solvents. :naughty: Of course, we can't all be, well, you.
     
  3. Jipa

    Jipa Avoiding the "I guess.." since 2004

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    Well, atleast it's turning out better than my attempt at worn/dirty looking paintjob... And you've used far more time, patience and skillz than I did :D (my method was hitting the base coat, then spinning the fan in a card board box while dripping neon orange paint on the blades. End result looked like rather colorful **** had hit the fan http://www.nic.fi/~jvasama/2.1.2005/pimeassa_uv.jpg)

    Keep it up! But I still think solvents are best used internally, though you shouldn't try much else but ethanol for that. Cheers!
     
  4. Bad_cancer

    Bad_cancer Mauritius? 2nd speck east of africa

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    Damn, was i that obvious? :duh: I hate you! (goes and sits in a corner and cries silently).
     
  5. longwing

    longwing New Member

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    @Jipa - Actually, that tactic could've worked with the right color selection. A rusty base coat with black paint dripped on, especially if you'd just hit the blades and not the center. I salute the attempt either way. The only way we ever find better tactics is to try them out and see what works. Somewhere in the past, a modder picked up a dremmel and said "Hmmm" :dremel:

    @Bad_cancer - Aww. Well I don't hate you, I think you're alright.
     
  6. longwing

    longwing New Member

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    July 7th - Switch and drives.

    This update is relatively minor, but I did manage to take care of a few important steps.

    First off, I added a securing method for the drive cage. Namely, 3M adhesive pull strips. These are the version with plastic-velcro attached. It might seem like an overly simple or kleugy method of attaching the cage, but these exact same strips have been holding up the hooks for pots in my kitchen for upwards of two years now, so I've a lot of experience with their staying power. The velcro-ish fasteners will let me lift out the drive cage without needing to remove any other components, so they're perfect for my needs:
    [​IMG]

    Once I had a fastener for the cage, I added the drives:
    [​IMG]

    That gave me a good idea of the DVDrw's position:
    [​IMG]

    So I taped it off:
    [​IMG]

    And cut out a hole. Eventually, the DVDrw will get a brass faceplate, so that it'll blend with it's surroundings better. I just haven't gotten to that yet:
    [​IMG]

    Then it was on to the electrics again, though this particular bit of modding was a lot simpler. I wired up the override switch, which will let me run the pump when the computer is off, or no computer is connected (good for leak testing, amongst other things):
    [​IMG]

    Once the (pretty simple) wiring was done, I cut a hole and bolted the switch to the outer grille. I added a healthy dose of hot-glue to guard against any possibility of an AC short:
    [​IMG]

    A couple of washers, nuts, and bolts hold the whole thing in place:
    [​IMG]

    And here's where I need your help :D. I could use some advice on switch plates. I have two competing possible plates.

    One Victorian:
    [​IMG]

    and one Industrial:
    [​IMG]

    Please add your thoughts in the comments. :thumb:
     
    Last edited: 19 Aug 2009
  7. woody_294

    woody_294 Wizard Ninja :P

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    Victorian! Seems to fit better with the detailed decor, i reckon the industrial one sticks out too much, maybe if you re-painted it to "age" it more it'd be fine?
     
  8. ModMinded

    ModMinded Are you throwing that away?

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    Victorian, me thinks... :)

    Can you think of anything to camoflague the back of the switch? Maybe a bent brass piece, or even more of the grate/mesh thing you're using for the sides?
     
  9. whiteagle

    whiteagle New Member

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    Definitely the Victorian one. Thanks for posting the grime tutorial. I'll use that for sure.
     
  10. skreenname

    skreenname SFF Forever

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    Definately Victorian.
    It matches better, more ornate and such.
     
  11. Bad_cancer

    Bad_cancer Mauritius? 2nd speck east of africa

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    yeah ill have to go with the victorian too, it looks so much better with your grill.
     
  12. longwing

    longwing New Member

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    Overwhelming votes for Victorian settle it. I may age the switch plate a bit before actually installing it, to get a better match to the existing paint job. :D

    @ModMinded - I'd honestly just intended to hide the switch behind the junction box, but I hate how the hot glue looks, even if it'll hardly ever be seen. I'll probably add some kind of cover or shield when I get around to working on the brass portions of the case.

    @whiteagle - Just be sure to share your results with the rest of us!
     
  13. ModMinded

    ModMinded Are you throwing that away?

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    yeah, that's the thing about these project logs... even though the rest of the world may never see/notice something, just the putting it in a log causes me to cringe sometimes and say... hmm, that's not so great :D
     
  14. longwing

    longwing New Member

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    July 14th - Ship in a bottle

    It's Tuesday, so it's high time for another post. Today, we're reviewing my battle with one of the most pesky properties of physical matter. Namely, the fact that physical matter isn't willing to occupy the same space as other physical matter. :wallbash: Hardly a problem when your computer case is gigantic, or designed by engineers so that (almost) everything fits, but it gets a lot more troublesome when dealing with a tiny and highly enclosed space, such as the interior of a fish tank.

    One of the users on the Puget Systems forum described it as building a ship in a bottle. I feel the analogy is apt. After some of the work on the outer body was completed, I decided to run a quick test fit, so that I could get some ideas as to how easy/hard it'd be to get all the parts into the tank. It em... could've gone better:
    [​IMG]

    Clearly, I needed to make some changes. I needed to get a good sense for the spacing of the internals, and I needed the ability to make adjustments and determine the true fit of parts. This called for the liberal application of power tools:
    [​IMG]

    I ordered a replacement tank, then I promptly cut a giant hole in the front of my current tank. This would let me move, place, and adjust parts without having to move the motherboard every single time I got a new idea:
    [​IMG]

    Uh oh, it seems there's a warranty void sticker over one of the screws. I'd better take this power supply to a trained professional... :rolleyes:... :worried:... :dremel:
    [​IMG]

    The power supply was my greatest nemesis. It simply wouldn't fit. So started by removing the cover. Now it fits, but only barely:
    [​IMG]

    Further changes will need to be made. That's way too much wire in way too little space. Tune in next week, same bit-tech time, same bit-tech forum thread, as I hack my poor power supply to bits.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 19 Aug 2009
  15. longwing

    longwing New Member

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    July 21st - Power Supply Hacking

    So with a testing case built, and a power suppy shoehorned in, it was time to solve a few essential problems. All of which can be summed up in a single sentence:

    The power supply hogs space.

    Fortunately, I'm armed with that most essential of tools :dremel:
    [​IMG]

    I added plastic and packing tape as I went, to reduce the amount of metal dust that could work it's way into dangerous places.
    [​IMG]

    The result, a significantly more skeletal power supply.
    [​IMG]

    Next order of business, deal with this comically long power wire. I like this supply well enough, but next time I'm going modular.
    [​IMG]

    So I need a shorter wire, but how short? I tied the wire to itself to get a good sense of where to cut.
    [​IMG]

    With the length decided, I cut and stripped all the wires.
    [​IMG]

    Then I soldered and heat-shrunk every. Single. One. You're looking at the whole week's worth of work, right here. I'm sure many people are quicker than me, but I have to work 9-5, so this kind of fidgety wiring takes quite a bit of time.
    [​IMG]

    My new, shorter motherboard cable. I still need to cover it with wire loom, but I'm out of loom for now. Soon. The sheet of paper was an improvised template, to help me judge needed distances.
    [​IMG]

    I also took a few minutes to route the motherboard's secondary power connector. Keeping it out of the way.
    [​IMG]

    I'm about half done with the power supply at this point. I need to shorten a number of other wires. I'll have a properly routed version to show off next week... I hope. :D
     
    Last edited: 19 Aug 2009
  16. Bad_cancer

    Bad_cancer Mauritius? 2nd speck east of africa

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    looking good there! I hope it will all fit in now :thumb:
     
  17. longwing

    longwing New Member

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    July 29th - More Powersupply hacking.

    Does it still count as Tuesday if I haven't slept yet?

    @Bad_cancer - To my relief, it does fit! See below for all the soldery soldery details.

    After cutting the motherboard cable short, I decided that most of the other power supply cables would need a similar treatment. So I set my sights on the GPU supply next:
    [​IMG]

    Sadly, I've failed at good mod reporting. I was on such a roll that I moved right along to the drive cables without taking proper pictures of the GPU cable first. :duh: :
    [​IMG]

    So here's a picture of a completely unrelated GPU cable instead. I wanted to run a second monitor off of a second card, so that my main GPU could focus on important things... like games. I yanked my old computers GPU and added it to the case. Only one problem, not enough GPU supply cables. My main GTX 260 chewed up both cables. Solution? Get one of those molex-to-gpu cables, and hack up a new frankencable with it:
    [​IMG]

    I also created a much-shortened molex connector to attach to the hard-drive pass through slot:
    [​IMG]

    The result of all that hard work? A much cleaner set of wires:
    [​IMG]

    The fit's a little tight, but it's still worlds better than it was before:
    [​IMG]

    But it gets hot as the dickens*, so I propped the power supply's own fan across the front. It helps keep things cool until I'm ready to deal with the problem.
    [​IMG]

    *no dickens were harmed in the making of this post.
     
    Last edited: 19 Aug 2009
  18. The boy 4rm oz

    The boy 4rm oz Project: Elegant-Li

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    Cool, another mineral oil PC. This is looking fantastic mate, I love the weathered victorian/steampunk feel to the mod, really cool.
     
  19. Bad_cancer

    Bad_cancer Mauritius? 2nd speck east of africa

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    *geek mode* Cute power cables, arent they cute?? awwwww, look at how small they are! awwwww!!! *End geek mode*

    Nice work there! Looking good!
     
  20. DonT-FeaR

    DonT-FeaR I know what a fk'n Dremel is ok.:D

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    lookin good
     

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