If you want maximum cooling power you should have started of with a 100% silver rod, but that would be WAY too expensive
LOL yes that wpuld cost f**k loads lol. Well this copper will do nicely i am desgining the "top" today and going to tap it etc, im just waiting for the barbs to arrive. Also i really need to crack on with the channeling
If you were to talk about maximum cooling it would be gold. But then angain gold is at a 24 year high. Sell for $500+ for one oz in Canada. Yeah dude you need to. Check out my block that is what can be done by a drill press. It works well but you need to make room on the top plate to reduce weight and also give the block space for the water to move around.
ok i am going to go for a ring effect using the lathe. good news is, i have recieved the small barbs and PTFE tape, but no dangerden 1/2 hose tail barbs, instead i recieved 2 foot of clear tubing lol i have emailed sales at coolercases also got my crucial 2x1gb to look forward to tonite and also pictures shall be updated some time tonite next week the perspex and channeling shall take place. If you havnt noticed i am pushed for time so making proper channeling wont be an option sadly, but i have a very good idea
since the last picture, i have drawn a top view of the perspex block which shall be made on monday, along with the creation of the "channeling" but today i have started to lap the block, i have started off using 800grit, but unfortunaly thats as far as i got today because the college dosnt have any higher grit than that so i orderd 4 sheets , 2 1000 grit and 2 1200 grit "wet and dry" Here is the picture of the oil can, paper, and the block of course. I used a small amount of oil so that it will keep scratches to a minimum , next week pref tue the higher grit paper will be in (£1.20 !!) after giving it my "weetabix" for 15 min's it looks like this as you can see its just begging to become a mirror mirror on the wall type finish Here is my lovely suprise of the day (apart from the memory from my lovely girlfriend) i opened it up and saw some tubing , i thought yey i have been given some for free... lol not the case though. Coolercases got my 1/2inch dangerden barbs mixed up with 1/2 tubing doh !! never mind tho, i shall simply email them PTFE tape, 1/4 BSPT to 3/8 barbed hose tail brass x2 I love it here is the piece of perpsex that i could use, or i can order in a brand new piece, i shall see. As you can see this piece is around 12mm thick and has one or to scratches, i think i need a piece about 10mm in thickness, since the thread isnt to big on my barbs anyway more pic's on mon and tue, when it gets really good, or bad and ugly cheers peeps
i love it OK, stop bumping your log with pointless entries and get back to work, slacker... --Nexxo why is "i love it" in its own little post wtf i didnt do that ...heheh i love it
ok i have done some more work on it today, however the 1/4" BSPT tapered thread is not fitting in the hole that i made by using a 1/4 BSP tap wtf its sticking out half a mile and looks rubish now oh well
got some little updates, > just marked out the perspex by using the vernior height gauge, a set square and rule. Then got tutor to cut the perspex using the ban-saw, lord knows why i cant use it and here is what the sides looked like, quite ruffed up so after a light skim using the file it turned out better. sorry for the naff pic, know one wanted to help take a photo lol while i was file-ing me being me, decided to make it even smoother finish, so some 800grit sand paper did the trick, this was harder than i initially thought but left it smooth as a babys.. I then marked up where the centre's of each barb shall be situated I then used the drill to make the first pilot hole ready for the main hole > oh i forgot to take a photo of me tapping the hole's this is because me and the tutor had a little fall out lol Then thats it for now, and as you can see the god dam barbs dont fit in ? . I used a 1/4 BSP tap and the barb is a 1/4 BSPT so i dont know what going on with that, although coolercases did send me 1/2 tubing which i didnt ask for, so maybe these are the wrong barbs, possibly...? after this much work i cant afford to leave it so there just sticking out grr Enjoy please help me out by going to the project discussion page, cheers guys
ok very sorry for late update !!! i have been soo busy , oh iv come a long way since the last picture, having small problems though. since i cant get hold of a socket 939 motherbaord that works to test this on, i will have to resort to 2 resitors (above) they can easily get to 100c in 40 seconds, although a real processor would pop in 3 secs so i used one of these one of these to test the voltage etc, to get to 100c and beyond it they need 25v in Parallel but then they just keep going, iv seen them get to 130c!!! so to stabilze and maintain 80c i need to turn it down to 13v here is the power supply to mount the resistors i have cut a piece of aluminium and have glued 2 right angled pieces of sheet steel opposit each other, once the glue has set the resistors should slide between the two perfectly here is the glue (epoxy) this should hold them, turns out it did work, just one came off when i pushed the resistors through it, so tommorow i will re glue it so from getting side-tracked, basically this sheet of aluminium can act as the CPU, once i have pushed the 2 resistors between the holders i can put some insulating material perhaps neoprene to make sure all the heat goes one way (up through my cooler)
and now back to the water block !!! yey!!! i didnt have the camera to show you pics of this being done, basically a lathe again milled the circles out for me they dont go that deep and i think pressure will be a problem. So i wil probably use a mill to cut a union jack into it. and your probably wondering how does the water get from the first ring to the next etc, well the outer ring is 2mm higher than the rest, (if any cad experts out there want to help me out and draw this as a technical drawing i would be externilly gratefull ) this is the perspex top, i managed to screw the barbs in using the tapped thread, what i managed to do was put a 13mm drill bit and re drill it, my plan was to just glue them in. After i drilled them i put the barbs back in and to my suprise they screwed in really good and tight not bad eh ? I then drilled two holes 88.90 apart from the centres, this is the distance for a soc 939 motherbaord , these are the mounting holes so its already to be put togther, but... theres a big but, when i used the lathe to do the channels, i didnt leave enough space for screws to be screwed in to hold the copper and perpsex toghther fook !!! so i bought some blue instant gasket ! lol and since i am mounting the copper block ontop of that aluminium sheet (above) there shouldnt be a problem with that oh and i lapped the block again > more pics to come just need to take them
channels have been done not as deep as i wanted but it will do then will blast it to give it a quick clean
looking good, only problem is i will have to use an instant gasket filler since there is no room for socket head cap screws, as long as it water tight im fine with it next, gasket filler and PTFE tape
and here it is, no leaking etc works perfect i just need a test pc to try it on this is the test set up, leaked at first around the barbs, PTFE teape sorted that the results where really impressive on the resitors at 25v after 10mins the temp was 27c didnt move from there, where as without the water flowing around the resitors get to 150c in 1minute !! so i guess this will work fine on a real processor
sorry for extremely late update, project is complete and works hopefully i will get a distinction for it the gasket filler is really good although dosnt look it, its normally used on car parts so it wont come undone got some on my finger and believe me it is very sticky thanks for looking
you got it wrong, in terms of thermal conductivity Silver is the best of precious metals, although gold is a better electrical conductor. In terms of materials I believe solid diamond is the best conductor available and they've even made a diamond boron lattice semiconductor. "bling bling"
