Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Captain Slug, 29 Oct 2004.
WOW...now THAT is hot!
Man.where did u get this litle lcd ?
Fakking cool case to
It was $60usd shipped on eBay. Was originally a 5.4" gamecube LCD lid unit.
nice mod!! I've been planning a mobo cover for ages... but not that that ideas taken i shall be looking at other stuff
PQi ram? .shudder.
Question for you...
What did you use to thread the wires into the 90 degree molexes?
A small bolt and a hammer. An upside-down finishing nail would also work.
A reader wanted more information about how I made the LCD unit for the front of my case. Here's a complete description of everything I did to my Interact brand 5.4" gamecube LCD unit to get it to work as a standalone unit. Units like mine can be purchased cheapl on ebay for around $60usd.
The Brigthness and Volume Potentiometers are the only connection I'm unsure about. nntrw means simply "No Need To ReWire". They already have the input connector type you need for external use. If you don't want to rewire the audio or video connections, you can simply use the external source dongle and flip the input selector switch.
The PCB includes an audio amplifier which powers the speakers and the headphone output. I'm fairly sure that the amplifier is what is using the large capacitor inside the screen unit, so if like me you kill your capacitor while trying to remove it from the shell don't worry since it won't effect the usage of the screen itself.
There is a red 22awg wire that is soldered directly onto the daughter PCB and the PCB of the screen itself. This is nothing more than brightness adjustment extension. There is a brightness adjustment POT on the LCD itself, so if you don't need to use the brightness adjustment on the daughter pcb you can remove the annoying red wire.
I rewired the video and audio inputs which were originally inside the Gamecube AV plug. I seperated the two wiring a male rca Composite end onto the video lead, and a female stereo headphone jack onto the audio input lead. Each lead on the pcb is easily removable, so whatever items you are not using can simply be negated. I am not using the audio at present .
In other news, my replacement RAM arrived and is error free. I also finished soldering all of my power cables and have begun reassembling the machine.
It's running test loops again and I tidied up one last bit of wiring in the case. I also made the junction connector for the pin 39 mod a little bit easier to connect. It makes assembling and dissecting just that much easier. I think the only other item I could improved would be to make a more accessible plug-bus for the fan controller. But that's something I'm not too worried about so it may not be made any time soon.
Because of how throughly I managed to light every part of this case, every tiny little hole in the case is beaming light out of it. Even the small and seemingly pointless holes underneath the motherboard tray. This picture was taken thorugh the threaded holes in the top of the case where rackmount rails would normally be attached.
This theme has exceded my expectations from the start and I'm glad to see it finally finished.
Looks beautiful! Excellent case and theme!
Indeed looks great! I really like the way the wiring harnesses (sp?) turned out nice job!
Love it man. Great work.
I might have missed it but where did you order the power cable connecters and stuff from? I'm been thinking of doing a custom cable for a while now.
BTW you can get a few of the custom molex stuff from both http://www.jab-tech.com/ and http://www.frozencpu.com
I've also ordered mine from Performance PC as well as Jabtech.
He used Performance PC for the cable and molexes (Look in the DIY section on their website). Like yourself, I have used JabTech in the past. Both have a great selection. Jab normally has better pricing, but it is close in some circumstances...
I ordered all of my connectors, wire, and pins from Performance PCs. Their USPS priority shipping is really fast and cheap so I've been very happy with them.
I got my desk setup again last night.
I meant the stuff for this, PPC only carries the molex connectors.
1. The wire is from PPC but if you don't want to have to braid pairs of it you'll probably want to pick up some 14AWG wire.
2. The clear 1/2" ID Nylon tubing is from Home depot. Any water-cooling specific tubing will work just as well and be twice as flexible. Similarly you could just opt to sleeve the wires.
3. I purchased the Hospital Grade 3-prong Appliance plug (NEMA 5-15P type) from a local electrical supply store. You may find a number of online results if you search for 5266
4. I ordered the IEC320 C13 plug (Schurter Model: 4781.0100) from Mouser.com
If you want to order both plugs from the same supplier you'll have to poke around for DIY Hi-Fi cable stores. You'll pay a few dollars more, but you won't have to bother finding a local electrical supply company and you'll get uniformly styled connectors.
Take Five Audio
There's a VERY wide variety of connector styles, but those are the cheapest ones. If you're willing to pay a little more you could theme your cable any way you want to. You can occassionally find the right connectors on eBay, but you have to be careful because most of them come in yellow (marine-grade usually). The two plug types are universally labelled as NEMA 5-15 (sometimes 5-15P) and IEC 320 C13.
This was the easiest cable to make. Here's the short list of tools you need
2. Philips and Flat Screwdrivers
3. Standard power cable to use as comparison template with multimeter
Anyone else have any questions?
BTW I'm not really a stranger to braiding either.
The chair I've been using is atleast 6 years old by now and was ready to be sent to the trash. While cutting the arms off my replacement chair I got a little carried away and figured out how I could mount a set of speakers. 3 hours later I'm back to having an orderly and contained surround sound setup at my desk.
The set on the desk is a set of portable flat Sonic Impact SI-5 speakers. The unit attached to the chair is half of a Philips 4.1 Surround sound set that I bought from the clearance rack at Staples for $25. It's a very clear and clean speaker set and I was a little disappointed when I had to stop using it because I was running out of desk space. Now I'm enjoying for the second time. All materials used were what I had on hand, so this project essentially cost me nothing. The clear tubing and wire management supplies are leftovers from my recent project and the plastic and aluminum used to make the frame are right from my scrap pile.
i defenitly like your mod
great eye for detail!
but i was wondering...
what happened to the 'number 1'? where did it got incorporated?
Separate names with a comma.