Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by shplade, 15 Feb 2006.
I'll wait and see how it looks inside the case, if it looks unfinished I'll give that a go
Like promised I did some more work today. The case floor is pretty much done, but it looks a little bare IMO. I think I should get a logo/design for the project and cut it into the floor, put mesh behind it and get some kind of lighting down there.
Here's the floor, I think it looks much better than the original.
I made it fit nice and snug, at the moment its held up by the same square tube aluminium as I used previously but is yet to be screwed down. It fits perfectly under the bottom edge of the mobo (mobo in pics is a dead mobo I use for testing) with about 1mm to spare
This next pic is of the area under the removable HDD rack showing the base of the powerpole.
Wires will run through the small gap to a terminal block for easy access. Also note the thin piece of clear plastic under the HDD rack so the bare CCFL inverters don't short out.
I mounted the serial extension cable and a male molex plug on the alu plate that sits in the back of the floppy bay:
To accomodate the sockets I had to modify the fan bracket:
Together they form this:
One last detail. At the top of the case I wanted to have somewhere to organise the wiring for the powerpole, and there was a nice spot above the top 5 1/4 inch bay. A plus side to having it right at the top of the case is that I can easily access it by simply removing the top panel. Terminal blocks are going to be used and they need something to be mounted to, so a piece of perspex was cut to shape:
L brackets fabricated and mounted:
The perspex plate sits such that its bottom is flush up against the top of the optical drive below it.
The plate mounted:
That's all for today, for the next update I should have some wiring done, maybe a few logo designs, and I'll keep working on the window.
Updated, my Photobucket bandwidth is almost gone so I'm going to upgrade to a premium account.
I did a quick logo concept in autocad, printed it and put it on the floor.
The dot on the 'i' looked a too small so I've tried larger ones, as well as changing the size of the 'u'.
Which one is the best?
I like the first one
Ok three more:
Bandwidth problems will be fixed tomorrow.
Until I have my bucket account back up all the pics are hosted here:
Pics are back up, I apologise for the downtime.
Today I worked on the final logo design. Here you can see it taped down on the false floor ready to be cut out.
I mirrored the image in AutoCAD so the design could be cut from the bottom of the floor to avoid damaging the visible side while cutting. I started out by doing the 'M' and 'L' because they were the largest letters, and hence I could do them with my hand nibbler instead of the dremel. Firs though, I needed to drill pilot holes:
Not long afterwards:
Then I set to work on the smaller letters with my rotary tool equiped with a re-inforced cut-off disc. After I was done with the rotary tool:
It was still really rough and needed alot of work. After many hours of filing, sanding and cursing I was left with this:
The dot on the 'i' is going to be round for now, I may one day get some jewelers files to square it out though. I still need to clean up the inside section for the 'o' and 'd' and add the '-' between 'u' and 'L'.
I put the floor back in the case with a little bit of black vinyl taped behind it to make the logo stand out.
I also finished off the rear section of the floppy bays, all that's left to do is make an L bracket to mount them.
The aluminium section is now attached to the perspex fan mount. Here you can see there is a screw on either side of the sockets:
The flat top of the screws was epoxied to the aluminium plate and the perspex was given some countersunk screw holes to let the two section mate together. Here's a view from the other side to show that the screws aren't visible:
To finish off the day I began on something new:
This is only a concept. If I do end up using it I'll use black perspex and ontop of it will be a sheet of aluminium cut to the same size. Routed edges would look cool on the plexi, and obviously I would cut out holes to accomodate for the optical drive(s), rheobus, LCD, etc. I also considered having the perspex cover the power buttons & LED section but I'm not sure just yet.
As usual you can expect an update tomorrow
Apologies for this somewhat lackluster update.
I cut the middle section for the 'o' and 'd' for the floor logo. Tonight I'm going to cut a piece of perspex to go under the logo, frost it, and see what it looks like with blue lighting.
Speaking of lighting, I tested my cathodes today:
They're not very bright because the case was next to an open window and I had most of the panels off. You can see the window I have started to cut on the left panel.
This is a shot of the floppy bay installed from inside the case:
The fan suck cool air through the front panel of the case, and pushes it out over the videocard. The fan mount assembly isn't mounted yet, but it's a tight enough fit to hold itself in place.
I came across a problem when testing the internal serial connector on my mobo; it doesn't work! Grrr... I did some research and found that many people who use the A7V600 have the same problem. Not to worry though because I've simply snipped the 10 pin IDC connector off the ribbon cable, and will replace it with a serial connector so I can run it to the I/O panel at the back of the case. The ribbon cable will run between the mobo and mobo tray so it won't be visible.
I started on a bit of wiring today.
First off was the front panel button and LED wiring. This is the wires as they come out of the box:
After a few minutes with some heatshrink they looked like this:
The grommet was used as to neaten the hole they run through in the case floor:
I also started on the powerpole wiring. I've run the ground wires from a terminal block at the top of the case...
... through the powerpole to the bottom of the case and to another terminal block under the HDD cage:
I also mounted the first CCFL inverter under the HDD cage along with a switch to turn the lighting on and off.
I always find it hard to connect the front panel USB port connector on the motherboard because the edge of my TV tuner card and soundcard make it really awqward to get a hand down there. For this reason I've decided to make an extension cable for it which will stay attached to the mobo even when I remove it from the case. Here are the parts I'll be using to make it:
Last night I saw this suicidal skink on my cupboard and thought I should take a picture:
I wont be updating again till wednesday/thursday because I have uni orientation tomorrow, wednesday and friday.
Logo is awesome on the bottom of the case!
OK I had a bit of spare time today, so I did a bit more wiring.
I mounted the first terminal block on the perspex wiring shelf:
That particular block is for the optical drives, rheobus and the misc power which runs down the powerpole. Here's a shot of the power running to the optical drives and rheobus:
Those wires won't be visible as I will be fabricating a dividing wall to cut the top section off from the rest of the case (as I have previously explained).
In my last update I showed you this:
I soldered the 10 pin (now 9 pin) IDC connector to the 9 conductor ribbon cable to create an extension for the front panel USB connectors.
After an initial test it was working however some of the IDC pins were pushed out by the USB header, so some hot glue was used to prevent it from happening again.
Here's a shot of the extension connnected:
The extension won't be visible but I will be heatshrinking it just to keep things neat.
I finished the wiring for the CCFL inverter under the HDD cage:
This is another terminal block which will be underneath the HDD cage, and will serve as the power for the HDDs.
Next to it are right angle molex and SATA power connectors, which let me add extra drives without having to alter the cable. Wires will run from the top perspex wiring shelf to the HDD terminal block for power.
I'm wondering though, there is an orange wire used by the SATA connectors, is it necessary? Have a look at this molex > SATA adapter:
It doesn't have an orange wire?
I'm guessing its safe to run a drive without it, and these particular SATA connectors are really easy to de-pin so next time I reboot I'll give it a go.
And finally I was looking for bolts yesterday and came across 8 of these:
I'm not sure if I'll use them, but if I do they will get a polish.
I have to go to uni again tomorrow so I will update on Saturday.
Cheers saab, and updated
I promised to update on Saturday. Come 8pm Saturday night I hadn't done anything
You guys are motivation enough to make me do some more, so tonight I did a bit more wiring. I find wiring to be quite relaxing, but maybe I'm just weird.
I began with this:
Sorry for the slightly blurry pic. In the pic is a 12 pin socket and plug, as well as the pins for said plug. The socket/plug combo is identical to a 3 pin mobo fan header, except its 12 pin.
After a short while I'd attached 4x 3 pin plugs to the 12 pin socket:
So you're probably sitting there thinking 'Wow... what is it?', and I don't blame you. Basically the 3 pin plugs connect to the 3 pin sockets on my Rheobus like so:
So now instead of disconnecting 4 seperate plugs to take the fan controller out I only have to disconnect one big 12 pin plug. Here you can see I've attached the 12 pin plug:
Currently it only has one fan output, that one is for the top 2x 80mm blowholes. Currently I only make use of three output channels; the 2x 80mm front intake fans, the 2x 80mm top blowholes, and the 2x 80mm rear exhaust fans.
I'm going skating tomorrow and then have uni everyday next week so I may not update again until next weekend, hopefully by that time my order of black cable sleeving, 20 pin ATX extension, and Zalman V700-Cu (to match my CNPS7000B-Cu) will arive.
Hehe, same fan controller as me, and almoast the same way to mod it
I got a package today! I like packages
Open the package and what do you get?
Another package! Open the package and what do you get?
Open the bubble wrap and what do you get?
A 20 pin ATX extension, black sleeving, a Zalman VF700-Cu and a pack of 4x 1000mA AAA NiMH batteries (for my MP3 player).
While better than the NVidia reference design, the stock Leadtek cooling solution on the A400 TDH (6800nu) is fairly inefficient. Even at stock settings the card ran hot, and it became even worse when I bumped the core voltage up from 1.2v to 1.4v. Here you can see the Leadtek HSF installed:
Average temps with the Leadtek HSF were around 55-60 idle and anywhere from 65-80 under load. Those temps aren't too high, but the heat pooled in my case making my CPU run warmer. The fan they used is really small and doesn't line up with the grill on the HSF 'shell'. Its also quite heavy for what it is. So I bought a VF700-Cu for it, in the hope that it would run a bit cooler.
I removed the Leadtek HSF which turned out to be quite difficult, and then cleaned up the chips. Naked 6800:
The shiny new VF700-Cu & ramsinks:
Installed with some AS5 (slightly blurry sorry):
Idle temps are down to 45 so I'm really happy with it so far, I will do some load temps later.
I've been waiting on the chance to get some black sleeving and now its here so I can get some more wiring done.
Also got a 20 pin ATX extension to keep with the modular theme, you'll see what I'm doing with it eventually.
Lastly here is something I began working on the other day. I wont say anything just yet as I'm still unsure of what I'll be doing with it. Expect to see more on it over the coming days.
OK I sleeved the ATX extension. Starting with this:
I began to depin the ATX plug, was 3 pins away from finishing and then the ATX depinning tool broke
I tried using a pin for a while but it didn't work so I squeezed the sleeving and heatshrink over the entire ATX connector (nearly ruining it in the process) Finally, after almost 2 hours after I began, it was done.
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