Project: Nutman Sponsored by: First of all: I'm from Denmark, so english is not my native tongue. Yada-yada-yada... bear over with me, if... Yada-yada-yada... Oh, and I'm also linking to some danish and german suppliers AND I use the metric system! Uh oh! Well, here we go: In march 2008 I was playing with the thought of trying to watercool my computer (Socket 478, 2.8 GHz P4, etc.). I got hold of a Thermaltake BigWater 735 kit and was about to build it into my oooold casemod (see pictures here and here). I had already made 120mm holes in my Codegen iron-case, when someone offered me a cheap, more modern computer in a black Lian-Li PC6070 case. I quickly decided to sell the old rig and start with the new computer instead... The idea of watercooling was dropped for the time being, as I really didn't have the money. There was no strict plan for the project to begin with - all I knew was that I wanted to make it quiet, efficiently cooled and styled nicely - which meant mounting my harddrive using rubber bands for clothing (like in my old case), silent fans were to be purchased (mounted using antivibration bolts), UV cathodes and powerful LEDs plus LED mounting gear was going to be purchased, etc..... Anyway, I didn't really plan to make a worklog, but after a while I thought I had been spending so much time on the project that it would be a shame not to have documented it. That's why there are no pictures from the very beginning of this project... however, I'll try to explain what has happened up until this point. I quickly realised that I'm obviously PRETTY much a puritan and quite the perfectionist (well, at least when it comes to casemodding, heh..), so every single solution had to be close to being perfect and be nicely in sync with where I wanted to go with the project. First, I decided to sleeve all cables - I started with the PSU. I visited Studiedata and bought some sleevingkits (as the case is black, I thought that a combination of black and UV-reactive green sleeving would be a good match... later I was proven right... and lucky, too! Read on...) and started trying to sleeve. Anyone who has tried sleeving will most likely agree with me that it's piece of cake to work with Molex-connectors, while it's a bitch to disassemble the ATX-plug, the EPS-plug, etc.. I can verify it's JUST like that!! After having destroyed the specialized tool utilised for disassembling the ATX-plug and following having repaired this tool to the best of my abilities, I was able to display multiple cuts and bruises on my poor fingers and several blisters had started popping up on my thumbs! With a little practice I managed to disassemble these plugs and all plugs were replaced with UV-reactive green plugs (where applicable). I decided NOT to sleeve the ATX-cable itself (only replaced the ATX-plug itself), as Enermax had done a half-decent job already.... Anyway, the remaining cables were sleeved (and shortened, when necessary. No need to have more cables than you actually need, right?) and this was when I discovered I am quite puritan, because I realised that I think it looks ugly when you're able to spot the coloured cables through the sleeving. Hence, I had to heat shrink all cables prior to sleeving them. The result is that the cables are somewhat stiff, but they look much better this way, I think. Tip: An old hair dryer is PERFECT for working with heat shrink! Studiedata carry heat shrink from AC Ryan in rolls and it's not expensive at all - furthermore, it's nicely thin, quite flexible and easy to expand, if needed when applying. Other cables in the computer had to be sleeved aswell, for instance the wide P-ATA alike cable that connect my sound card (TerraTec DMX 6fire 24/96) with its 5.25" breakout box. I coudn't disassemble this plug (or: didn't have the nerve) and I wouldn't risk splitting the cable by cutting between each single wire, so I went with the solution of "folding" the cable - in the end it was app. 1,5 x 1,5 cm. thick. Hard to describe, but check out this picture that I found on the internet: There are lots of guides on the internet that describe this process. Then I bent one of the plugs to make it run parallel with the cables itself and now I was able to pull sleeving and heat shrink over the plug and onto the cable. Shrink, shrink, shrink and this was the result: Not perfect but good enough, considering that almost all visible parts has been sleeved. The original Lian-Li fans were also sleeved: Then I purchased an original Lian-Li side panel, premodded with a window at HK Automation - and please don't talk bull about this project just because I used a premodded side panel. I think it fits the project fine, as it's nice and pure and the rivets apply nicely to my idea: I was going to mount 12" UV cold cathodes and these often come in pairs including 1 inverter and a PCI-bracket with an on/off switch. I had half of such a kit in advance (1 cathode + 1 inventer + PCI-bracket). I quickly decided that the on/off switch should be moved to the front of the case, as I really don't have that much space behind the computer. I gave it quite some thought and decided that it WAS necessary to be able to switch all lights on and off. It's a sweet little feature....and it's considered casemodding to put a switch in your computer, so there... Out came the drill and the file and the switch was moved from the PCI-bracket to one of the empty 3.5" slots at the front of the case: I'd like some more UV lighting, so I got an entire set at Studiedata. Now I had 3 cathodes totallt. The 2 cathodes from the Studiedata-kit are not as powerful as the single cathode I had in advance, so they'll be mounted in the top of the case to cast atmospheric light from above. The UV cathode I had in advance, was mounted in the bottom of the case and will cast light from below and from the front. Wires were soldered to the on/off switch, so it can switch on/off both inverters at the same time. The inverters were mounted on the visible side of the 3.5" frame using velcro. I'm not sure it's the best place for the inverters... does it look stupid that you can see the inverters through the side panel window? Hm... well, there they are, for now... All cathodes have been mounted using 3M Dual Lock velcro - a type of velcro, consisting of tiny T-shaped hooks, as opposed to "regular" velcro, consisting of small loops and hooks. 3M Dual Lock velcro is incredibly strong and is for instance used by musicians for securing their gear, so it doesn't shift during live acts and such... You can buy it for 16 EUR/m. at Aage.dk - it's app. 3 cm. wide.... I think I'll be getting an extra 15 cm. UV cathode that will be connected to the empty socket in the 2nd inverter. 15 cm., because it will fit in so many places in the case as opposed to the 30 cm. cathodes, which will only mount horizontally or vertically. Aaaaaanyway... (Are you still there? Hallo?... Yooohoo?) ... moving on!