Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Gup, 3 Sep 2007.
Hmmm nice and tricky mod!
I am likeing it!
Joke. I'm too old to convert to metric except for cooling fan sizes
[OT]He John you don't have to convert yourself. Convert online[/OT]
I would leave the speed as it is now.It looks like something really heavy being moved up and it
looks perfect ........
small update :
Finshed the PCB for the lights. Now the lights can be turned on/off with a simple push-button and from the remote control. Luckily we live in a 3d world, so i could fit the pcb just above the screen..
It has been a while since my last update, but we did some improvements on the pyramid and finally the styreen plates arrived!.
Changed stuff :
Changed the axis on the right side to a 4 mm one so its the same now as the left. Fixed the "symmetric" view on the screen. Now its evenly spaced in regards to the axis. Changed the lower guides to "machined" processed ones. They look alot better and the lights look really kewl now.
Finished the interior for the pyramid to all black and skipped the idea of adding egyptian signs in it. It looks more slick now IMO.
Removed the converters from the ccfl light from backplate to inside the stages.
Moving plate backside finished.
Colorized foil changed for the lights.
Started designing of the skin.
For the design i found a real kewl site with alot of info :
Cutting the styrene i used a new tool : the cutter. This way u get perfect angles. THe suggested "nibbler" is a nogo IMO. If you try to do
larger areas u cant get it to do straight lines as they always be bit of.
Also the glueing of the styrene gave me a headache : spending about 100 euros on finding an adhesive that actually works. Contact glue/rapid glue/epoxy/polyeurethan/modellers glue
all brands tried and nothing actually works. Problems you will encounter :
To fast so no correction is possible (rapid glue)
Deformation of the polystyrene sheets.(contact/modellers)
To thick layer of glue (epoxy)
Different kinds of glues (not even all i tested)
Only one did actually work :
Axis, guides and interior finish.
moving plate back finished.
First steps on skin.
Looking great, can't wait to see more! Some questions/thoughts:
1. Do you think you could post a pic or a link on 'the cutter' tool plz?
2. What kind of viscosity does that extruded polystyrene board glue have, is it runny/watery, like wall paint or thicker?
3. Do you plan on adding more finer detail later? I'm thinking, since this pyramid would be really big in real life, that the model would gain a lot if you glued pieces of very thin plastic to simulate metal the plates it's constructed of.
On second thought.. perhaps it's so big and so well built, you can't even see any of the plates... but still.. I feel that there's need for more fine detail. The square pieces that are on there now, for example, are huge.. they would be like 10-20m tall and 1m thick or something.
If gluing thin pieces of plastic all over the case isn't your cup of tea, perhaps scoring is. Score thin lines into the plastic to emulate plate seams.
*yawn* I'm tired, so perhaps you shouldn't pay too much attention to what I say. <=)
Looking forward to your next update! ¤_¤ ^_^
Thanx for the link btw, good stuff! It inspired me to do some research of my own, and I found this page with some kitbash/scratchbuild modeling tutorials:
Starship Modeler: Tech Library
I really cant believe that I missed this one!! I read these forums pretty much every evening and yet still managed to miss this. Anyway... I know this is from a long way back but could you please do a little guide of how you turned the cd drive in to a mechanism for a sliding object please. I really want to know how you did this as I'm planning a case and want to borrow your idea... Please =P
I think that the case is looking awesome...I really am inspired by your moving panel and the whole case!!
some serious detail here man, and your own PCB's, nice!
Looks real good,the styrene seems to be great to work with for making details and such.
Macro TnX for input and comment!!
1) link to the tools :
cutter : http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82439
nibbler : http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81477
The nibbler sux for doing larger areas. As ur from Sweden be in for a long wait (4 weeks before it arrived in nl)
2) the glue i used has a high viscosity (epoxy like) but you can delute it with water. (not to much though). Advantage of this glue towards all the others:
You can delute it.
Easy to remove excess glue without any residues staying behind, even after a day.
It sticks half good which is an advantage if you do something wrong : you can remove it without damaging the styrene pieces.
As for my purpose i dont need any 10 tons strenght on the joint.
3) I have been testing with even smaller details but IMO it waste of ur time. The smaller details completly vanish on a distance larger then 0.5 meter. I will add some more piping for the details (looks very good with the lights). I think if i add more details it gets crowded and u will get more of a "Borg Cube" effect, i think this way it looks more smooth (which i like).
"less is more" i have read somewhere...
Also adding more details gives u tons of work........its extemely difficult to do right angles on all the stuff : i (my wife) have cut about 1000 pieces that didnt where straight enough .....
Scoring would be an option, gotta try it on some test pieces.
As for a guide : i think most of the things i did are in the thread already.
Basic things i found out if you wanna use a cd mechanism :
Check your moving weight u plan to use. A CD motor has about 200 grams of pulling power.
If you plan on using the cd-electronics, you have to find a cd which uses "begin-end" stoppers (mechanical/opto switches) or design your own pcb's. Alot of info is on the web for schematics of controlling a motor.
If you look at the mechanism the basic operation isnt different then an original cd (with the axis and stoppers).
If you got any specific question about it i can do a more detail answer.
Yes it is. Only expensive. As i had to use very thin plates (0,1 inch=0.25mm) which u can't buy in your regular plastic shop.
Evergreen is one of the best as to quality of the styrene, but bloody expensive. Their preformed stuff saves alot of time (pipes/plates/v-grooves etc).
Also styrene makes it look much more "professional" then the cut up pieces by hand (no sanding and curvation).
1) That cutter sure looks like a nice tool to have.. I'll see if I can find something similar to that here in Sweden. Yeah, I used my fathers nibbler when I was modding in my younger days.. it was super for those small rectangular holes/cuts, but not very good for big stuff.
2) Diluteable with water, cool! I'll try finding glue like that one when I get to build my own styrene scratch build model. =)
3) Ok, sound like you're on top of things, and that the level of detail is good for this build. =) Hehe, yeah I know.. I dread the day I get to do the detailing on my model.. knowing how anal I am (no funny jokes now, ok ;P) I know I will swamp my self in work. =\ But it will be fun as well... I hope. <=)
Yeah, I think scoring/scribing would be much less work.. and it seems widely used by scratch builders to add paneling detail. Combined with washes (painting procedure) and dry brushing, it really does wonders for the final look.
Btw.. found a typo... 0.1 in ~= 2.5 mm (not 0.25)
About buying the stuff, I talked to a local sign maker and he would sell me ~2x1m sheets of styrene at a decent rate.. don't remember the exact figure, but I remember it being ok.. like 200+ SEK (33 USD / 22 EUR) or so.
More specialized stuff like thin strips (square, half round, triangular, ..) and very thin sheets however, I will have to order online or buy from the local "warhammer miniatures shop" at much higher rates.
man, i feel like i no nothing, i can do window mods and lights but pcb's are to compicated for me!
Found a decent scribing tutorial -> http://www.geocities.com/adumas02/howto_scrib.html =)
the stargate intro song started playing in my head when i saw your mod.... continue the good work!
3) Good to hear u gonna do a nice model. Any preview or idea you wanna do? The washes and dry paint is prolly what i gonna need for the painting. Still not shure about it.
Typo=True... ......should be 0.01 inch
Yup, these sheets i also can get here for 11 euros but they are limited to a 1 mm thickness. I cant get them thinner. But also the quality is less.
Tnx for the scribbing link!
PCB's aren't that difficult....the design is..
Hahahah, QFT! It's true! And a cool mod indeed.
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