Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by riekmaharg2, 22 Feb 2009.
Lolcats > all !
Yes they are going to be two seperate DVI's and all the USBs are also separate. Im going to solder a USB cable on to each USB socket and the same for the DVI however with a DVI cable. Basically its sort of a really small extension which extends the sockets from the back of the motherboard to the back of the case.
Here are the circuit diagrams you requested ModMinded:
In the real case there will be a large quantity of LED's not just one, all powered by the Mosfet transister.
Heres the power switch diagram:
As this is the first time you've used fibreglass and after seeing what an awesome job you've done with it, how did you find the process? Ease of use, problems, etc. I'd love to hear as I love where you're going with this and may bear fibreglass in mind.
ta for your time
I found forming the fibreglass around the mould fairly easy, however very messy. I also had to work quite fast because the resin starts to get more solid quite fast. The big works comes after you've formed the fibreglass, because the fibreglass is very rough and uneven. Thats why I had to use a cutting disc to smooth the uneven areas, however you can only use the disc for the larger uneven areas because it cuts through the fibreglass so fast. Then after that I had to spend a week filling the gaps inbetween the fibres then sanding it smooth. This process had to be repeated many times as one layer of filler doesn't fill in all the gaps. So really using fibreglass isn't that hard however it requires alot of time and lots of patients.
To create the motherboard tray I'm using a sheet of mild steel:
In order to cut the steel into the size I require I used a jigsaw with the same metal cutting blade that I used for the fibreglass. To my suprise it made short work of the steel and cut through the whole sheet in about 30 sec! Heres a picture of my cutting almost complete:
The next stage is to drill and tap holes into the steel in the correct places in order to fix the motherboard onto the sheet. Once that has been completed the heatsink must be placed in the space behind where the sheet is going before I can fix it permanently into position. The sheet is going to be placed in the position shown below:
Space behind the sheet:
As I didnt have my motherboard near me at the time to mark exactly where the holes need to be on the steel sheet I decided to start making some of the fixtures for the drive bays. Because the design of this case I cant use screws to fasten the drives into position as you would'nt be able to get a screw driver in, so I have decided to use ball catches instead:
To get this to work I only need the individual ball bearing like so:
In order to get to that stage I clamped the ball catches to a table and used a cutting disc on a grinder to cut the catches into the individual pieces shown above:
A couple of hours later I ended up with these:
The peices shown above will be then be attached to a frame in a way that means that the ball bearings will be pushed in when the drive is slotted into the case putting pressure on both sides of the drive in order to prevent it from falling out. I have put the ball bearing catches away for now and I will use them in a later stage when I'm creating the internal drive bay frame.
As I now need to put the heatsink into position before the motherboard tray, I am going to start making it from tomorrow. Stay tuned for more pics tomorrow (presuming the copper for the heatsink arrives).
Very creative and different! Have some stars
One question though... what effect do you think the ball catches will have on vibration? Don't want the whole case humming with the hard drives!
Thanks for the stars Murtoz. I think it might actually reduce noise, because the ball bearings have a spring behind them which may absorb the vibrations.
one more thing on the ball bearings mate. You really need to keep in mind that though the ball bearings do have a spring behind them you need to keep in mind that if the damping factor on the springs is to little then the hard disk may do one of two things, either a) it will vibrate (however slight) to fast for the spring to pick up and you will hear a clicking of it coming off and then hitting the bearing, or b) it will vibrate harder than the spring can damp and hit the top of the metal casing on the bearing.
if i could suggest you may just want to throw a small rubber gromit between the ball bearing and the HDD to prevent any possible noise. That is of course if you have the space.
so far so good though mate i'm planning on making a fiberglass case here in the near future. Glad to see its coming along so well
The ball bearings are quite hard to push in so I dont think they will have a problem damping the harder vibrations, however the fast small vibrations may get through. I might put a rubber pad inbetween the case and the ball catches as you suggested to damp the finer vibrations. Good thinking sixfootsideburn.
Unfortunately the company I have ordered the copper from has said they have run out of stock and I will have to wait untill wednesday next week! So I've started to look for other companies who sell copper however I can't find any that will give me even close to 1000mm X 500mm X 0.5mm for £25 that the current company I'm using offers. Does anyone know of any cheap UK based stores/websites that sell copper sheets?
I decided to make the power (touch) button today, using a sheet of aluminium, clear acrylic and some tin snips. The button is made by cutting a circle out of the aluminium using the tin snips and acrylic using a dremel, once thats done cut the aluminium circle in half using the tin snips again. Now all you have to do is glue the two half circles onto the acrylic circle:
Once that was completed I then began to polish the metal:
However I found that polishing alone wasn't enough to remove the scratches so I used some wet wet&dry paper and soap to remove the scratches:
I no it still needs more work to really bring out a smooth shine but I finishes it last just in case it gets scratched again before the case is finished.
The next stage was to cut a hole through the acrylic on the back of the button to attach the wires, this was done with a dremel:
I had to resort to glueing the wires into position as solder doesn't stick to aluminium very easy and it would have melted the acrylic. I then glued the switch into the hole in the case I drilled previously, I also put an LED behind it just to give a feel for what it will look like when its finished:
Once the switch was finished (for now) I moved onto the fan holes in the bottom of the motherboard tray. In order to cut the holes out the steel I used a grinder with a cutting disc to cut a slot in the steel so I could get the jigsaw blade in once that was done I cut the circle out using a metal cutting blade on the jigsaw:
The blade got so hot I melted a big hole in the polystryene I was cutting the sheet on:
Then after lots of filing I finally got this:
All I need to do now is order some 12cm fans.
The aluminium for the drive bays arrived today so I will start creating the frame tomorrow
Thanks for the comment Volund
I completely forgot about the mains power connect so I made that today instead of the frame. The first stage was to draw the shape onto the case above the hole where the motherboard back panel connectors are going:
I then dremeled the hole out:
I then used a sanding thing that came with my dremel to obtain a smooth finish:
Half way through:
I then milled out some of the fibreglass on the inside of the case so I could get the front of the power connector level with the front of the case:
The connector was then glued into the milled out section:
Some filler will be applied into the very small gap inbetween the connector and the case in the finishing stages.
I then moved on to making the drive bay doors. To make the doors I used a peice of mild steel cut out using the jigaw then bent (by hand) so the steel curves to match the case:
Once I had the shape I decided to mould filler onto the peice of steel and use the filler as the doors, mainly because it takes so long to cut and file the steel it not worth making every door from steel. To prevent the filler from permanently sticking itself to the steel I used tape:
I then pasted the filler onto the taped steel:
Once it set (15min) I could then simply lever the filler off with a screw driver:
The two peices shown here, filler on the top, and steel on the bottom:
I will sand the filler down tomorrow and create the rest of the bay doors.
The copper sheet for the heat sink finaly arrived yesterday:
In order to check whether the folding idea works I tryied it with cardboard first and it was a complete success:
Sorry I completely forgot to take a pic of the folded cardboard.
In order to fold the copper I clamped it to a table and bend it back and forth by hand:
I had to have some folded sections small than the others so it would fit the curved design of the case:
The top of the heatsink also has to be curved aswell so, I clamped the copper onto the table again and used a cutting disc on a grinder to create a curve on the top:
Heres a pic of it inside the case:
The gap between the side of the heatsink and the case is so the air from the fans can get round the back of the heatsink. The next stage is to create a vent in the curved section above the heatsink to let the heat escape.
Today I decided to fit the motherboard tray from a bought computer case into the fibreglass case.
In order to remove the panel I used a plasma cutter:
Then I used a jigsaw to neaten the edges:
I then drilled 5 holes through the motherboard tray of the bought computer and the one I made for the fibreglass one:
I could then bolt the two panels together:
Once I had bolted the panels together I then marked where the PCI cards would slot into and cut out a section from the fibreglass case motherboard tray:
The PCI card now have enough room to slot in through both the motherboard trays:
Heres a shot of the completed tray in the case:
All I need to do now is solder some copper pipe onto the heatsink and cut some more vent holes out then that part of the case is finally finished.
Your work is really good, and the design is 100% awesome
You most definitely can haz fyve stars
In order to transfer the heat from the coolant to the heatsink im going to solder pipes onto the heat sink in the layout shown below:
In order to attach the pipe to the heatsink im going to use flux and a large solder stick:
I couldn't finish the heat sink today because my local hardware store only had 6 right angle sections of 15mm pipe but they will have stock again tomorrow . So I moved onto the vent for the heatsink. I used the dremel as usual to cut straight sections out the fibreglass:
I've almost finished the vent so i'll finish it off tomorrow. Now that i've almost made the vent I can't decide whether to put a mesh behind the straight cut out sections. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of the vent will be helpfull, if anyone has any ideas please post a message.
Great project so far and I like the idea!
Is the vent going to be a intake or exhaust?
Some mesh behind it wouldn't hurt, but I would make sure it matched the existing mesh or at least complimented it.
Thanks Popo, the vent is going to be an exhaust blowing hot air from the heatsink out the case.
Heres a few pictures of the finished vent holes:
I agree with you Popo on the need to put a mesh behind the vent holes, however I've also found this cotton wool type sheet which looks quite nice when its backlight with a blue LED, I've stuck some of it underneath the vent with tape just to see what it looks like:
yeah that looks good with a led, nice project im watching you!
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