Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by modsquad, 19 Oct 2004.
Spectacular paint job
Thanks guys. I am pretty happy with it. The green paint is a "close" match for the green UV acrylic windows. I am looking forward to getting the case back together.
Really wanna see if I can do my next paint job on a case pretty much as you have if I can. I may even be able to save my current cases paint job.
Just a list of the stages you go though would be great thanks i.e primer, sand (what type and grit) 1st coat, sand (type & grit) 2nd coat, sand (type & grit) ect ect
also what rubbing compounds, ect to get that lovely shine you got too
Yeah well he has almost 1,100 posts and you only got 90 so I think he should be saying that to you.
OK..Before starting, it depends on the condition of what U start with (was there body-work....bondo...that would need perhaps 600-800grit work before primer. I only use 3M wet/dry sandpaper.
Let's say you have nice metal to start with, 1000-1500grit before primer then clean with prepsolv.
shoot primer..wetsand with more 1000-1500grit (I use 2000grit myself, but 1000-1500 grit is OK) adding a few drops of dish soap to the water will also help to clean as you sand..wash off the sanded panels and clean with prepsolv
shoot your color..Then more wetsanding/washing and clean with prepsolv.
(this really depends on the paint you use, most likely you will shoot at least 2 coats..but it could be basecoat/midcoat/graphics layer..)
The paint I used for this project's graphic layer is a h20-based product, so I did not sand at all before shooting clear.
shoot your clear coat. then wetsand with 2000grit and wash/clean with prepsolv. I shot 3-coats of clear on this case, wetsanded between each coat with 2000grit. When you go to a autoshow and see that car with "kick-ass" paint, it could have as many as 10 coats of clear...Many/many man-hours of work.
After your last coat of clear has been wetsanded you need to use rubbing compound to remove the 2000grit sanding scratches..I use 3M heavy-cut compound. This case was rubbed-out by hand, but you can use a orbital buffer..
Next you need to remove the scratches from the rubbing compound with glaze (or polish). Again U can polish by hand or with a machine.
Then, last but not least wax..Paste wax, all those liquid waxes are for "quickfix" a good paste wax is best, two coats. Also by hand or machine.
Then have few beers and admire your work..
For the project I used:
House of Kolor "base coat" (black)
AutoAir Colors "graphics layer" (pearl green and pearl white and apple green)
PPG 2.1 speed clear
House of Kolor prepsolv
3M Super Duty rubbing compound
Meguiar's Show Car glaze
3M Perfect-IT Show Car paste wax
Michelob Lager beer
That is close to a step-by-step. I hope that helps, best of luck with your paint..
thanks for the step by step guide on the painting,
Probably will be testing out on my current case which I only did couple of coats of undercoat and 2 coats of colour and no rubbing or sanding on. Probably take me ages to get it smooth if it ever can be but alteast I'll be about to see the improvement which this one as I can see a smooth surface but never rubbed it down with anything.
Once again thanks for the tips I think everyone could do with a good advise on paint jobs to be honest. Its the difference between a great case and a case as far as I'm concerned
No problem cb. Painting is all about the prep-work..hours of sanding and minutes of painting.. Don't forget the Michelob Lager beer. The more bottles you drink the better the paint will look.....
Great paintjob modsquad
I hope to get the case bolted back together this weekend. It should look nice with the green UV acrylic top and side windows..Honestly, I am looking forward to seeing the case assembled myself..It's been a long-long paint process...
That paint job did come out very nice. I'm inspired to learn to airbrush. Knowing it is no easy task I just wish I had the time and patience to see it through.
Thanks Sho..Painting with an airbrush is not as hard as you think, give it a try..
My chrome guy has been very busy and unable (or unwilling) to chrome the last two pieces I need plated for this project. An Aqua-Computer APE120 grill and a custom PSU mounting bracket. SO:
I skuffed the stainless and shot two coats of black and then wet sanded that with 2000grit.
This is the base coat for more apple green and pearl white blend. As long as I am painting, I did the Aqua-Computer AquaDrive Micro as well
Then shoot the "mean-green"
I would guess these are the only pearl green Aqua-Computer parts you will ever see, but they will contrast nicely with the cases black back side..
The HD cooler will get some black sKuLL graphics soon.
Then all three will get a few coats of clear...and I will be finished with this projects paint job!!
those look sweet man, shame about the chromeing guy thos :S
Pardon me if I'm wrong ('cause I aint huntin' down the exact post) but I thought you decided against that. I knew you couldn't resist. And after all it's a modder's perogative to change his mind.
I thought so too but I still like the idea of them being there. Green is definately so... not AC blue I prefer the black more myself, but I'm more about sublety with these things, though the more in-your-face green does look very nice.
The Aqua-Computer HD cooler will end up more black than green. In order to paint the graphics, you "sorta" paint in reverse..
I will try to shoot the graphics over the weekend (as well as the clear). So you will see what I am talking about..
Painting Aqua-Computer HD Cooler:
Ok. Before we start painting the Aqua-Computer MicroDrive HD cooler, I also painted a 120mm fan grill with the same process of a black base coat and then lite coats of the apple green:
This grill will be for the machines exhaust fan..
I started painting the skull graphics, but I was not happy with the green undercoat (not GREEN enough)..What to do?
Start over. The nice thing about AutoAir paint is that it is H20-based. So a quick wet-sand with 2000grit paper and we are ready to try again.
This time I shot a basecoat of pearl white on the MicroDrive first.
Followed up with transparent apple green.
Now we have that "glow-in-the-dark" green...
OK skull time..Using a stencil and deep black paint to "ruff-in" the boys. Then you go-back and add highlights/definition with more of the same black paint.
All skulled-up..ever inch..
IT STILL NEEDS MORE WORK..but I am out of patience for today (I need a beer)..Some of those skulls are sooo-small...Tedious work..
Let's see how it looks with the stainless inspection plate:
The Aqua-Computer MicroDrive Halloween variant..
I have about another hour's worth of highlighting to finish before I can shoot a few coats of clear on the thing...Tomorrow..
Here's the last few pictures:
thats freaking wicked.
Gw as per norm
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