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Project Soylent Green: 2006 FIN:

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by modsquad, 19 Oct 2004.

  1. Firehed

    Firehed Why not? I own a domain to match.

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    Totally agreed, I'm in a photography class right now. Can't say I've been a photo-buff since I was eight, but I'm definately having more fun with it recently. Maybe I'll get some scans of my prints up if we ever make any (B&W film SLR work)

    Agreed on the pressure thing. I just don't see how the decerase in pressure (by boring-out the intake hole) would change the calibration. It WOULD definately change the flow, but it seems to me that 1RPM in the meter would still equal x l/m. Must be changing how the water actually hits the impeller, rather than the actual pressure. You're right, as long as it's not zero, it's fine :)

    http://www.thinkgeek.com/tshirts/science/60f5/
    Just for the record.
     
  2. modsquad

    modsquad Grease Monkey Undergraduate..

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    COOL link..
    An SLR w/a 35mm lens is the minds EYE.. B&W photography can be lots of fun..Making use of light and shadow (the same can be said for b&w film)..A picture of "anything" can look great if you know what your doing..Photography is a very cool hobby.. ENjoY
    http://www.fredmiranda.com/
     
    Last edited: 15 Oct 2005
  3. Top Nurse

    Top Nurse Minimodder

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    I posted some of my modding activities in my FF thread with telescopes. :lol:

    The problem with the flowmeter is that when you open the hole the pressure drops and the RPM drops as well. Those flowmeters are designed to be used to meter liquids in vending machines (like coffee) thus they need small sizes. The reason that they say to open up the inlet port and then switch to the outlet port for your inflow is so that you still have a precision hole to base your flow RPM on. You can drill both sides, but then you have to do some exhaustive testing to get the flow parameters right.
     
  4. modsquad

    modsquad Grease Monkey Undergraduate..

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    I just checked out your telescope_mod :thumb: Looking good as is your project.
    With an unmodified AC flow meter in my other machine (and prior to my pump impeller mod) I was getting 0.9 l/m..
    With this one I would expect something like 0.3-0.4 l/m (without playing with different pulse-rates) for the reason you stated.
    I understand that number will not be correct, but for me that is not important. In my mind a flow meter is a "early warning system"..If I see the flow rate drop from 0.4 l/m to 0.2 l/m, I know something is wrong and there is a restriction somewhere in the loop..
    You are 100% correct if your intent is to actually measure the flow rate of the H20 flowing through your loop the procedure you described above is the way to go (with a pulse-rate of 256).That being said you would still have a restrictive flow meter..I HATE to say it but the Innovatek flow meter is far better than Aqua-Computer's.. :waah:
    Have you noticed a change in flow rate with temperature? I have (a slight one)..with a reservoir H20 temp of 26.9C and above I get a 0.1 l/m increase in flow..I find that interesting...
    Now back to beer & HL2:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 16 Oct 2005
  5. ebola_one

    ebola_one What's a Dremel?

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    Ahhh Ravenholm... I hated that place. :(
    So dark, so many things wanting to eat my face.
    I had so little ammo too :(

    Looking forward to the next update too :)
     
  6. Firehed

    Firehed Why not? I own a domain to match.

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    Yeah, the grav gun and circular saw blades littering the ground help a lot. Didn't like RH but in all fairness it's probably one of the best designed levels I've ever played. So many irritating tricky things you have to do to get from A to B.

    I need to start up a fresh round. That game is just so fun. I've probably played through it six times and it's still not getting old.
     
  7. modsquad

    modsquad Grease Monkey Undergraduate..

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    H20 Blocks & More Paint:

    I finally shot the clear coat on the Aqua-Computer HD cooler, the ATI block cover and the FMJ for AC's AquaStream Pump:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The parts came out great, super-glossy..PPG clearcoat is good stuff..
    The AC 120mm grill and my mod-PSU plate..Well..
    [​IMG]
    The green looks to be a good color-match, but I seems..well bland.
    [​IMG]
    The two parts will face a wall and perhaps never see the light of day...But, GOD-is in the DETAILs..I have an idea.. :idea:
    First: lets get the AC blocks back together:
    [​IMG]
    I have not seen an exploded view of an AC Aquagrati X800/850 block..
    A close-up:
    [​IMG]
    I had a "bear" of a time getting the units O-ring back in place (honestly, I bet I spent .5Hour getting the O-ring to seat)..
    [​IMG]
    The HD cooler was EZ: only pictures:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    Back to those bland-green parts:

    I used another "old-school" (1950's) paint method on the Aqua-Computer 120mm grill:
    Fish Scales:
    [​IMG]
    after 50 years it still works: PrettyCool..
    [​IMG]
    I need to drill four holes in the PSU bracket (to custom-mount the Hiper PSU) before I paint it..I hate drilling stainless-steel..
    That "scale" pattern is a 4-step process, I will post a "how-to" soon.. Last picture:
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Firehed

    Firehed Why not? I own a domain to match.

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    The scale pattern is very cool, a nice touch where skulls wouldn't seem quite right.

    Yes those O-rings are a bear to get back in place... I had similar trouble with my 6800 block. I found if you fill up the channel it sits in with some water it tends to stick in place much better.
     
  9. Top Nurse

    Top Nurse Minimodder

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    Glad to see something other than skulls! Skulls are nice, but not my thing. Now those grills are stupendous. :jawdrop:

    :idea:
    The key to getting the o-rings to stay where you want them is to use glycerin to hold them in during assembly. IIRC that is what AC uses during initial assembly.
     
  10. Franklin

    Franklin What's a Dremel?

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    That grill looks awesome, a bit like the skin of a snake.
     
  11. perplekks45

    perplekks45 LIKE AN ANIMAL!

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    Agreed. And it seems a lot better as it isn't that bright anymore.
     
  12. frodo

    frodo What's a Dremel?

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    wow, those grills pwn!

    i like the fact you didnt go with skulls, as on the grill it wouldnt look right, because there isnt enough physical space to do it!

    i love the aquagrafix block now, just looks soooo good :) a 10000% improvement over the bland look.

    the hdd block looks pwnish, now paint the hdd *JOKING!*
     
  13. modsquad

    modsquad Grease Monkey Undergraduate..

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    @Firehed and TN:
    Thanks for the O-ring install tips, I hope other AquaPhile's will take note..Glycerin, I wondered what that "greasy-junk" was..I purchased a Aquagra FX6800 block that was covered in the stuff (I felt the need to wash my hands after unwrapping the unit)..
    @Franklin:
    Snake skin or fish scales. Thats the Look.. :D I like it and plan on doing both the Aqua-Computer Aquaero VFD & AquaStream's face plates with the same:
    [​IMG]
    Infact all the 5.25" front panel inserts will get the "fish-scale"..I do not have them at my SlaughterHouse, so that will have to wait..
    Today, I found a very good candidate for the HiperPSU install-mod (better than what I was going to use).
    [​IMG]
    I think it's from a LL case, but I am not sure (it was in the parts graveyard).
    [​IMG]
    Needs a Dremel-cut :dremel: and the two centered holes will be drilled out for 5mm green (back-firing) LEDS :eeek: ..
    @Frodo:
    I am glad you like the H20 block's..So do I..I need to box them up so the owner can see them in person and not just look at pictures..It has taken me months to finish them..
    Update today PM (hope)...
    PS: I love my new Canon L-series glass, notice the contrast between the Alu-part's sanding marks and pebble-grain on the book in picute #1, good-stuff..sharp is a tack..(63mm ISO100 f/2.8)..Even @ Bit-tech's 650x433
     
  14. Shadowed_fury

    Shadowed_fury Minimodder

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    Wow, this all looks incredible! Love the HDD blocks and the GFX cooler :)
     
  15. Payne280

    Payne280 What's a Dremel?

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    Wow, really like the HDD blocks and your vid cooler
     
  16. modsquad

    modsquad Grease Monkey Undergraduate..

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    I hate stainless steel:

    The I hate stainless steel update:
    [​IMG]
    Sunday PM..
     
    Last edited: 30 Oct 2005
  17. modsquad

    modsquad Grease Monkey Undergraduate..

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    PSU back plate

    The hiper PSU
    [​IMG]
    In order to have clearance for the top mount resevoir, I need to have the back-side of the PSU extend past the back of the case..This will involve cutting-out the stock mounting area of the case, making a new PSU mounting plate and bolting it to the case..
    I had originally planned on using this modified AC PSU plate:
    [​IMG]
    But after about five minutes of drilling (or trying to drill) through that German stainless steel I felt the need to look for other options..I guess I need a drill-press to work with that stuff. As luck would have it, I came across this:
    [​IMG]
    Nice soft Aluminum, I think this thing is from a LL case.
    I few minutes with the Dremel and it's a done-deal
    [​IMG]
    I also used a wire-brush (Dremel fitting) to start the sanding process on the plate.
    [​IMG]
    The cut edge needs a bit of file-action to clean it up. It should work out well (at least I hope it's tuff when you don't have the case or PSU to check-it).
    [​IMG]

    I also drilled out those two small holes on the center of the plate and added 3mm chrome LED clips:
    [​IMG]
    The clips come with those red LED's..They will get swapped-out for green ones.
    [​IMG]
    Next will be paint, more of than fish scale/snakeskin look..
    Until then..
     
  18. Firehed

    Firehed Why not? I own a domain to match.

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    Cool idea there, glad to see stuff being reused. Looks like the backplate from a v2000. Anyways, what are the LEDs going to? And why red, with all that green?
     
  19. Top Nurse

    Top Nurse Minimodder

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    Me thinks you need a Multiswitch to control all those LED's you got in that case. :D If you want to drill that stainless you need a drill press, cutting oil, and fairly slow speeds with a high feed pressure. Helps if you use cobalt drills as well.

    BTW, if you want a really different look on the PSU plate you can take a standard pencil with an eraser and chuck it up in a drill press. Then dip the eraser in a fine grit paste and apply the eraser to the metal. Keep moving the metal so that the eraser size covers about 1/3 of the previous swilrl you create. Gives a very pleasing swirl pattern of the metal and is often seen on fancy weapons. Probably have an interesting effect with the green paint over it.
     
  20. frodo

    frodo What's a Dremel?

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    would give it a 3rd dimension of awesomeness!
     

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