stickers, on tubing, would crease. stickers = vinyl, vinyl ISNT flexible, it is able to be placed on curved surfaces, but if that curved surface then MOVES it will crease! the front rad install looks really good! im loving the chrome on black! one idea for the problem with the grille, just remove it, as its not like anyones fingers are going to go behind the front panel with the pc on! so there isnt much advantage to it being there!
i just realised!!! i must agree with you two! this is a welcome change to me! as it makes posting alot easier! btw, i wouldnt bother putting acrylic on the face of the rad, as less IS more, and it would also look a bit odd imo! i prefer the clean look of the rad as it is!
going back to the skulls on the tubing idea. get a vinal cut out, wrap te tubeing with it, now use vinal dye to dye the tubeing. remove the tubing and you have some nice new skulls that won't crease, crack, or reduce flexibility. viola
when i said vinyl on the tubes i meant as an after effect, plumb it all in, and then onces its running (so water is at its normal temp) and then apply the vinyl.
the effect would be so small though, i doubt it would be worth it modsquad, any chance on a reply on my suggestion for some skulls on the NB/SB/FET cooling solution? and maybe the top fets? just so they go with the rest of the theme a bit better?!?
Sorry frodo, I missed that one (a great idea). I used a high-temp paint (automotive exhaust type) on the Asus heatpipe. I am not sure how regular paint would hold up, it might bubble/crack with the heat.. The reason for the fan grill: there is a good amount of wiring in that area, the fan grill will keep the wires out of the fan-blades path.. Well, the Hiper PSU is installed. Also did a bit of pump mock-up.. resizing/uploading pictures, update ASAP.. preview pic:
FrozenFire is effectively done at this point. I keep half-intending to do something more as far as lighting or a window goes, but that's really it at this point. There's always something else to be done, but I've had some other things going recently, and I just got a new toy as a combo pre-graduation/Eagle Scout present (hint: I'm posting from it). Pretty much in the state as BN - effectively done unless something else comes up.
hi mate just an idea, those wont ever go past 100c real temp, so real paint would be fine! most paint is good upto about 150c, so im sure if you did paint them it would be all safe
Flowmeter calibration Hi Modsquad, I've just spent a lot of hours this last week reading both your logs from the begining - I think I need glasses now - absolutely amazing attention to detail and patience you have. I now subscribe to your thread to see how you finish it off like the other mod deity I follow on here, G69T with Dark Blade. I'd like to say you've inspired me to mod but to be honest I'm too lazy for sand > prime > sand > paint > sand > paint > sand > clear coat >...etc and painting's all I can actually do as I'm out of work so no £ to buy lovely h2o gear and AMD FX chips. Anyway, I was thinking about your views on calibrating the flowmeters. As you don't much care for the actual value of L/PM, why not calibrate the meter so that a fresh install with clean pipes and water is 1 l/pm? That way, you don't need to worry what it was when you started to work out if it's dropped or not, your reference point is always 1. Just a thought, I tend to be an ideas man then look to delegating... Keep up the good work, you're an inspiration to many on here. Cheers, Idyllic
Hiper PSU installed This is actually the second "go-around" for this Hiper unit. I started Here I was unhappy with the painted PSU back-plate..My answer was to have it chromed. I also went with the more beefy M4 threaded rod and acorn nuts. the threaded rod bolted (but not tightened) in place. The forth rod, will thread into the I/O plate.. Lets see what we got: those "bulbous" mounting nuts are skulls: I AM NOT FEELIN' IT.. THEY ARE HISTORY!!. I will just go with hex-head satinless bolts. I do like the green UV tube over the threaded rod..but getting to lay-straight is a bit of a problem..Perhaps a bit of heat, but thats for another day.. I still need to work on the green acrylic cover, so the PSU is still a work in progress. I mocked-in the projects RME soundcard and the Eheim 1048 pump: at least that should workout well. Thats it for this update. We will get that Hiper PSU finished next weekend.
Yeah those skull-screws aren't really working for me either. Other than that though, the whole PSU area is looking really nice. The green rods around the threads is a work of genious. Hopefully those threaded rods have enough strength to hold everything in place... you've got quite a bit of spacing and not a whole lot of support by the looks of it. Then again I've seen some cheaper cases have no PSU support at all beyond the four screws and they managed to work with even only two screws in place. Tight fit there with the sound(?) card and pump... I hope the super-long 7900GTX going into this beast doesn't cause problems! It looks like it'll clear the top, but I'm sure you've already looked into that.
eeeerrrm.. Im sure that youve said this someware else in the log, but why are you mounting the PSU out of the back? it seems that you have buckets of space anyway. on the other hand, still looking very good!!!!! AJ.
read mankz READ the reason is that due to the fact its modular, it would hit the centered reservoir in the top if he didnt move it back at all those skull screws really dont look that good, some nice hex heads would look alot nicer there! the chrome makes a really big difference to the back of the case, good choice the tubing over the threaded rod looks really good, but id suggest you try to find a slightly smaller bore (like 6mm or something) and put it inside, as that will then mean youd have the 6mm tubing taking it up to abotu 8mm with the 10mm uv tubing over it it would be sexy as fook, as it would lay perfectly straight and concour with the threaded rod
Hi ModSquad, Saw a film called "The Mod Squad" last night, but anyway... You could cut four extra pieces of that tubing and slicece it down the side in order to slip it inside the four pieces surrounding your M4 threaded rods. You may need to remove 1mm or so to get a tight fit of the slit tubing around the threaded rod and be able to encase it in the existing tubing though. Failing that, perhaps you could fill the tube with clear resin with the rod already running through it? I look forward to seeing where you go with it. What did you think about my flowmeter calibration idea? Cheers Idyllic
Mod Squad was originally a very-bad 1960's TV show.. Thanks for the idea Idyllic. What I was thinking about. McMaster-Carr must/should have some-sort of metal tube that would fit over the M4 threaded rod, yet-still fit inside the 10/8mm green uv tube..I need to "look-around" when I get some free time..that would solve the "tube-flex" problem. As for flow-meters. For a small bore setup like this one, my first choice would be the Innovatek Rev 2.0 They are generally hard to get in the States, but it seems FrozenCPU has some in stock, I need to pick one up..It's straight-through design is much better that AC's.. ShoNuff did a bit of testing with the Innovatek unit and a value of 232 impulses/liter in the AC Aquaero aquasuite software is about right. I use the same impulse# with my bored-out Aqua-Computer unit in BN and get 0.90 l/m For me, as long as that 0.90 l/m shows up ( H20-temp seems to affect the flow rate..warmer H20= higher flow rate) the flow meter is doing it's job. So, I guess you could experiment with impulse #'s and find one that gives you 1.00 l/m and go with that..
