////\Project Spidy/\\\\ - Dremel O.C`ing + blazing eyes(update 15/7).

i`m not sure what a nice thin cus is, and trust me u don`t wanna know what cus is in hebrew

i`ll be guessing you meant what dremel heads i`m using to do the legs and all other cuts?

i usually start off by cutting the rough cut with a cutting disk - for metal (like cd rom box) i use the regular (not reinforced) 409 heads (which are 0.64mm thick) i then do some of the finer work (especially nice curves and smaller details) using the 9909 tungsten carbide head, and do some rough cleaning up using the 430 sanding drum (especially good for curves and making round shapes such as heads etc...). finish it all up with an 411 sanding disk and with a rough sanding paper by hand to get a brushed steel look like this

i also sometimes use some dentists` highspeed diamond cutters to do some really fine shapes in small pieces of metal (to be shown later in the project...)
hope that answered it - if not i`ll be happy to elaborate.

 

k - some minor updates,
i got some coupons from work for doing a good job and they were more then i could handle by buying some gifts to the woman and some new music cd`s, so they were smartly invested in some quality paint (@ least here it`s considered quality...) and spidy`s getting a new suit...

the left one - kinda black/blue/purple/metallic color is spidy`s new color, the middle one is black vinyl dye, and the rightmost one is just lacka - 2 give it all a hardened durable surface...

i`ve also got me some chloroform action (again, thanks resetter )
and the plexi welding has begun - i`m making another button prototype - this time - bigger, longer = better?
this is what i started with - a piece of plexi i found, it`s unaware of it now, but soon it will be a prototype and 4 full action plexi buttons (i`m still having problems getting my hands on some optic fiber - very hard to get here!)

and here are the glues - on the left, the chloroform in a driplet bottle (not sure what you guys call it pippet or something of the sort no?) and some cyanoacryalte i managed to get for free on the right...

i then went to work - marking what needs to be cut - in order to fit everything i want on the rheobox fron panel i`m going to have to go with 26mm(width = diameter) plexi buttons @ most so that`s what i`m planning now

then i cut them all up, sanded the ends a little bit - so there is no interference with the adhesion, found me some nice clean spot, put on some protection (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED IF YOU ARE PLANNING ANY USAGE OF TOXIC MATERIALS!) and went to work gluing...


only to remember when finished with gluing that it will all now be mixed with some black melted color due to the markings
well - modding @ these wee hours does have it`s price...

so next update should include the new color work on the main hull, as well as the new upper window which will be cut and painted also - and perhaps some of the work on the front panel - dentists acryl is really some awesome stuff to work with!
btw - any suggestions on the right side of the case (mobo side) i was thinking of some spidy action picture which i will paint - perhaps something from a comic book or this

opinions?

 

Can you get that in a case wrap? It would be awsome.. .,

 

thanks, actually there are three options i`m now considering :
1. case wrap... u know the drill - but since i can`t get one locally and getting one shipped from abroad will probably be huge sums of $$ i`m considering MAKING a case wrap...
2. painting it - should be a project on it`s own - but VERY rewarding...
3. etching it and painting part of the etch.

but the one i like most is the case wrap - having it shine like a poster is the picture i got stuck in my mind - the others are alternatives in case i don`t get that idea going...
anyone know of a good case wrap making guide

 

lol, i know that i have learned too much hebrew when i know what that is.

anyway, great mod, great case, great electronics, and great CUTS! saw this log a week or so ago and started to post, but i must have gotten distracted or something.
keep up the good work.

daniel

 

Can you post schemes of that rheobus when you're done?



Is that an adaption of macroman's article on that Knightrider ... *thingie*

 

LOL - yep - 2 much!

of course it`s not really such an advanced circuit - quite simple really - only hard part is giving up control over-ride to spidiersense - which is not final so i`ll post the basic rheo circuit later - it`s based on a fet, and i`ll open a thread on electronics forum once the circuit planning is in higher gear (i`m still waiting for the PIC`s to arrive...)

now on to painting the window... and imporving the one i did on the upper side

 

o.k - i know, i know - i haven`t been best post`er of the year - BUT my life during the past couple of weeks were very stressful so whilst i WAS able to get some hours of modding on occasions i WAS NOT able to post my progress either due to the lack of time or due to lack of internet connection

but enough already with da whining and on with da fotos!
mmm - where to start???
actually when i left off last time i was all promising circuits for a rheobus so i`ll start with that...
i`ve got 2 of them - u choose :
1. a rheobus based on an n-channel mosfet IRF640 - which means it can take as much as 18A

this rheobus`s minimum Voltage can be adjusted with the use of the 47K trimmer (the 50k resistor should be a round rheostat = pot).

2. a rheobus based on an lm317 - which could be replaced with lm350/lm338 according to your desired flavor (1.5A, 3A, 5A - accordingly).

it`s set for 3.5V minimum with the 1k R1 resistor - when you increase that resistor`s value you also increase the minimum output Voltage...
those are the two circuits i use throughout my project (yeah, yeah - i know the 10uF buffer is an overkill - sue me ).

so much for my debts - now on to the actual modding, i`ve been a busy little

1. i finally got the top window the way i like it - but there was hell to pay for it...
`all started off with the damn cd logo cutting if you remember - turns out you have to be a pretty large window to show that kind a cd logo through you so i made a design for the window which had enough view - but the problem was with the case itself, there was not enough room for the plexi. the skeletal metal part which holds the upper cover from underneath was causing interference with my window plans so off it had to go, didn`t feel like taking all the stuff out of the case so i covered it all with some garbage bags - put some masking tape on it and started dremeling (woman taking pics here - job well done)

BUT if you look closely you can see i am cutting the front side of the case, while my clearance problems were @ the rear! (i only discovered this one day later ). so i had to cover it all up again
and do the cutting thing again (which looks just like before - lot`s of sparks due to this being a metal case...)
the result was this
which only needed VERY slight sanding/filing and was as straight as an arrow - i was impressed with myself @ that weeeeeee hour (we are talking around 5:20am after ~55 hours with NO SLEEP!). same was done @ both sides so that cleared about half a cm from each side giving a whole whopping cm of clearance which was needed...

so i went on with cutting the window and test fitting it to the case (i have to apologise for the lack of cutting the window pictures as they were unintentionally erased from my cam by the woman during her digicam training... )
so here i am test fitting the window

first chance to final design ... i put together some designs i saw on some other sites and ended up with this - i added the pointy triangular back because in my opinion if you look @ the outer line it has a resemblence to a spider .
the rectangular holes were made with a rectangular file, and one of them dd not turn out so well - can YOU spot him in the pics?
ofcourse then i had to make the plexi - here it is all marked up after being cut from the huge piece if ound and after sanding it to a clear perfection

and then working on the plexi - making the holes (rectangular) and test fitting it with my special bolts/nuts


and ofcourse the finished and polished plexi (picture did not turn out great due to high material translucency - which i am proud to have achieved!)

and so the upper window was primered

and then painted and laquered for this final spiffy look


with that done and out of the way i went on to
2. window repainting - 1st it was sanded, then primered

then painted and laquered

and on to the final look with the perspex reinstalled (heh - no work here - already done in the past)


and here`s what the whole thing looks like put together again

***IMPORTANT REMARK : MY PAINT JOB WAS AWESOME - THE SPOTS DO NOT EXIST IN REAL LIFE. i dunno why that happens - perhaps due to the canon`s white balance/flash/whatever - but i actually had the cam checked out because of this - the paint job looks amazing in real life but seems to play havoc with the cams ccd so that`s the best picture i got right now - or until i learn how to photograph better...

and on to
3. it was time to begin working on the front panel, so 1st it was bondo`d to fill up all the holes in it...

and then sanded smooth

then some measurements were taken and marks were made


you see, this red grill is a marvel comics orginal spidy grill which apparently cost a lot of $$ to my friend and he gave it to me (love u biodude - manly ungay love ofcourse )
so the plan is to embed it in the front panel like so

so this way it looks like it`s spidy`s head - the background will be later tinted and the eyes will serve as indicators using special lit comics pictures...
on top of the will sit spidy like so

and he will serve as some electronics wizard which will have all sorts of sensors on him...
i got this action figure for 0.5$

so looks like some1 is about to bitten by a spider if you`re catching my drift here... he`s about to be heavily modded!

some other stuff are done to such as
4. lighting element revisited ...
last you saw it - this was it`s look

so i got to work on a newer more professional looking, safer to use, lighting element




jumper connectors were used this time around using two sided sticky tape to glue them to the plexi - all this so i can change color schemes/leds easily and quickly... so now the final thing looks like this

and you can find lighted pics of the case earlier along the thread...

some other work has been done i have not yet had time to upload or resize so it`ll have to wait a day or two - mainly the wiring has been tidied up and discreet holes have been cut inside the case for easy stealth wiring.
also i`ve started work on some etching - one of which will be the new mobo tray and probably right side door also.
some rewiring of mobo and of internal connectors - usb/sound ... and work on the ir reciever.

lots of stuff yet to come - THIS PROJECT IS NOT DEAD (though his own3r has been quite close sometimes during the last weeks )
so enjoy this post and leave some comments/suggestions - i`m always taking notes and improving my design

 

dude your awesome

 

Very impressive stuff
cant wait to see it done

 

thanks! really - i can`t express enough how these remarks drive me. i aprreciate your positive words

 

כל הכבוד אחי!
XLNT WORK! (another Israeli modder )

 

All I can do is smile

( Maybe its the weed )

 

spidy`s going stealth

once again, life has taken it`s toll on h.w modding and my project almost came to a stop while things were going down. hospital wards are pretty hectic for us now - i`ve been pulling shifts of over 48hrs in a row now for a month or so, but i finally got back in pace and i`ll pick up where i left off. there will also be some major imporvements. while my spidy here was beginning to get a spidy feel to him, stealthy he was not, by that i mean that in order to cool this barton2500+ @ 3200+ in this hot desert of a country (exaggeration, pls ignore...) many fans were needed and so they howl and puff like there is no 2morrow! seing my sorrow and headaches our sysadmins @ our local site decided to bless my life with some ActiveCool Peltier based cooling. you can all go check it out if you haven`t read reviews yet @ their site but basically this is a peltier rigged to run not @ it`s full capacity, so avoiding the condensation problem. it`s an israeli product so yay... and i get to keep it. BUT - what i got is the version the site got for review which ofcourse is a bit older version and it`s for a pentium4 machine. so the plan is : 1st we mod it to fit my amd cpu -any ideas or past executions of this would be most welcome! 2nd we mod the controlling part of it (i will be contacting activecool ofcourse) to have lower temps and ofcourse see if i can get this to hook up to my psu instead of the 220VAC line and ofcourse since there is a noisy fan it - either switch it or remove it - we`ll see...
meanwhile here are some pics for your enjoyment of this precious device :




i`ve also while idling in the hospital between shifts been catching up on my asm (haven`t used it in almost 10yrs) in order to start my spidersense project - it`s actually a monitoring/controlling pic project controlling fans reacting to temps, reading fan speeds, voltage rails and reboots/powers off if anything should go wrong. it`s also going to be connected to all the buttons/displays in the machine including the ir sensing part - some of which will be wired to the little dude i introduced in the last update...

the output main screen of this will (at least it will be attempted to) be the screen of an old nintendo gameboy color i received from a user who wished to support the project


so - small update i know - they will be getting larger as i hope i can finally shift gear on this and even post some more work done tomorrow.

again if anyone knows of a block conversion from p4 to amd or of usage of a gameboy lcd in a pic connected project (yeah yeah, i read the lcd faq in the modding forum) pls drop a line...

 

HWZ is down and I'll probably forget if I don't post this now. hope you see this.

I don't know if thermalright uses different mounting mechanisms then other heat sinks but if they don't this may come in very handy:
http://www.jab-tech.com/customer/product.php?productid=1704&cat=46&page=1

in any case, I think it's worth the 10$ it will cost you when you add shipping.

 

dude - 1st 10x - but that`s a mounting mechanism that`s used to mount amd coolers on p4`s and i have the exact opposite problem (have a p4 mount need 2 mount it on an amd) - anyways - i already figured out a plan which is already in motion and will b displayed l8r - i took the cooler all apart and seperated the peltiers from the bottom plate - i`m gonna machine myself (probably using a - if i can`t get access to a machine...) a new base plate which will house the peltiers - be thinner and fit an amd socket - already took all necessary measurements. hope to start work on it tomorrow or next day - i`ll be making a wooden model of it - to see how it fits and make the curves as i want them and only then will i start working with the alluminum - it`s hard to get alluminum here

 

I can't see the pics...anyone else having a prob?

 

sorry - our server is having some major downtime due to a weird bug - they should clear it all up by morning. sorry for any inconvenience

 

If you get that gameboy lcd screen to work, please enlighten us as to how you did it. A lot of people have wanted to attempt this and/or tried to and couldn't. I have no clue how you would get it to interface with the computer

 

its RGB at something like 14hz which is close to impossible for a computer