Projekt Passiv-Agressiv - Custom Radiators, waterblocks *03 Aug, FINISHED*

Ok, Update time finally!

I have been busy and I didnt feel like taking pictures until now, so here goes,

First off, I redid the waterblock, both the top and the base, due to problems with mounting solutions. so here is the base, I used a hexagonal fin-pin design, with a bunch of tiny hols drilled in a grid pattern, then connected.


Here is the whole block, minus the mounting screws, notice the countersunken cap screws





Here is the finished radiator base, one more to go....




Heres the good part, the flange for the dual passive radiators, its 1/16" aluminum panels, free from capitol metals. Note the plexiglass spacer, which will be lit with white LEDs.




Here is the blank PSU plate, which will have an IEC power jack, switch, and relay mounted on it, which will power the PSU(Mounted in the front of the case, probably passive) and the pump, I havent decided where that will go yet.



Here are the feet, with plexi squares, which will be cut down to the edge of the case, I dont like them like this, but they will be lit white as well.



Some progress on the front panel.





Here are the dual washers with bonded neoprene washers, with an acorn nut, for the mounting solution for the case feet.



Thats all I have today, but stay tuned for custom powdercoating, custom auto paint, and more custom machining, all done IN HOUSE! Thanks for reading!

 

nice custom work

 

Cool passive radiators. maybe some black painting

 

Very inspirational work; I'll be sure to follow your progress.
Keep up the great work.

 

Definately, the exterior, minus the front bezel, will be super mirror gloss black powdercoated, with red metal flake clearcoat, my buddy and I ordered some custom powder online .

 

Great looking mod!!!
Those water blocks are very inspiring. And the idea of "just" using a standard router - BRILLIANT.
This opens up a whole new avenue of options and visions for me

A word of warning though: The direct contact of copper, aluminium and water creates a serious galvanic corrosion.
This is why store bought water blocks have a thick copper base and then either a copper top or a plexi top.
Otherwise - keep up the GREAT work we are seeing.

 

Actualy thats not completly true as the blocks I own are coper bottom and anodised aluminum top. If he anodises the aluminum he can have a direct contact withought any problems. But yes that is a very valid point.

 

Thanks!! I like your work too!
Although you do have an extremely valid point, that point would only apply in a system using water, or another substance with no corrosion inhibiting properties. I have researched different solutions to this problem, being that I enjoy chemistry myslef, and I talked to some friends of mine who are chemists, and we came to the conclusion that using certain chemicals such as non ethlyene-glycol based coolants will provide the best corrosion resistance, and even with 2 very dissimilar metals in contact, the molybdate solution that I will be adding, which was whipped up by my buddy, will form a protective layer against the corrosion of the aluminum, and another factor to consider is the huge amount of aluminum and very small concentrations of copper that are present in the system as a whole, so the copper wont be able to do a whole lot of damage to any aluminum parts because there is so little of it contacting the system. I still might get the aluminum block powdercoated to match the case though, hehe.

Also, on the topic of routers, I talked to several woodworkers around town and they all said thats completely and udderly rediculous and that I would ruin the router! Well...that sure seems to be the case doesnt it? There is no reason not to use a router, and after all, it makes near perfect channels in wood, so why not metal? There are carbide tipped router bits available at home depot that work exremely well, but be sure to use lots of cutting oil/lubricant. Preferably kerosene since your dealing with aluminum, Another word to the wise on drilling/milling copper in particular, you must use cutting oil or you will ruin whatever tool you are using, same goes for tapping holes, cutting oil/lubricant provides an essential barrier that allows the tool to cut, but reduces friction greatly so the cutting surface will not bind to the work surface. Good Luck if you ever decide to do some custom router work Alvin!

Oh also, Alvin, on your watercooled PSU, i have a question reguarding charged parts, were any of the parts that contacted you PSU waterblock charged with 120v? If so, how did you insulate them but still maintain heat transfer, because one of the heatsinks in my PSU has a 120v charge, my hand found that out the hard way...could it be another component contacting the heatsink though?

 

wow. thats all i can think of to say.

 

updates?

 

Doing a similar thing atm so need some updates!

 

Nice job. I hope you'll polish blocks and casefeets

 

im looking forward to seeing how this one turns out, keep up the good work!

 

Oh for a workshop... and some time. Like the stuff you've done so far - if this one improves on your previous mods (and it seems headed that way) then it's going to be awesome!

 

update

 

Ok, so long time to see, well Im not dead, and I certainly havent put this on hold, I have just been very busy juggling modding/school/life. So, I have a TON of updates and new pics, etc etc.

Here goes.

First, I finished the front bezel with all the craziness, about 2-3 months ago




With mesh insert



Next, I made this fancy HDD enclosure, 100% custom from aluminum stock.



and added mounting rails




Finally finished the flame cutout after over 2 years i think?




I needed a design for the motherboard side, this too just under 1 hour with a jigsaw.




Finished the GPU waterblock





PSU hard mounted to a jumbo heatsink, with the ATX and P4 lines all pretty




PSU assembly, side view:




PSU intake vents




also finished the chassis cutout, DONT WORRY about the scrathes, everything is getting powdercoating.




this is the flow indicator/resivoir that consists of an aluminum block and a fan, the block was bored out on a lathe, by dan the man over on [H] forums. Unfortuantely I had to scrap the 3 neck glass flask, it just wasnt going to work out. this fits the theme better anyways.



This is the fan after painting it:



And as for right now, everything is at the powdercoater, and I should get it all back next friday, Ill update then, but it.will still take another 2-3 weeks before the final build and all.




by the way, heres a couple pics of the shifter I made for my buddy this week.



Thanks for reading! Comments/suggestions/criticism welcomed !

 

Amazing. Love the front, the flow indaicator/res, the side panel looks incredible, and well everything great job. That is a pretty heavy shifter isnt it. Most shifters are made out of hollow metal or plastic. That one is made out of solid aluminum. Guess he is a heavy shifter Huh.

 

Well, its only a little heavier than the original, which was the goal, he wanted it a little heavier, but not heavy enough to shift by itself, heh, that would be bad, if your accelerating and it slips into 2nd. Aluminum is very lightweight compared to tool steel or other materials i had available, so it was the best choice.

 

damn, i want a shifter like that for my landrover! dammit! make me one!

ive got an all alu shifter (that wont fit the landrover) but will fit my metro (shame i cant drive huh')

i LOVE all the cutting work, its so clean, and looks great!

 

Damn good job on those flames.