Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Lemur 6, 24 Apr 2005.
Lol, but you see, that's the thing. There is no CNC, it's all done by hand with dials and handles. No computers involved. Except... maybe... my noggin...
WOW, all that by hand? I've got about a zillion projects that I would love to machine up, but I think i'll outsource to a CNC shop, as I own neither a mill nor a CNC setup rather cost prohibitive for the casual hobbyist, as I'm sure you know.
If you can't get enough info on cooler placement around the CPU, check with www.formfactors.org . They may have the CPU keepout areas listed.
Keep us posted on how this works out!
I really like the lathe work, hand machined parts command so much more respect than CNC'd parts. For those that might not have picked up on it, Lemur 6 makes this look about a thousand times easier than the job actually is. Well, actually he just cut out all the mind-numbingly tedious tasks like setting up that turntable on the bridgeport, tapping those holes, cutting the ID, and measuring the part 270 times.
Hmm, seeing what lathes can do amazes me! wish i hadve used schools more now
youve got PM lemur
Cnc is cool but with cnc you can make ****ing nice homemade coolblocks
Another small update: Jacket takes a rest, Lid fabrication begins 4/27/05
Mmm... more like measured a dozen or so times, but I guess in CNC you never measure anything .
Oh yeah, update time. I need the lid to finish off the jacket so that I can turn the entire thing down in one go. That way once the part is done, you can't see any seams... anywhere...
Okay, here's what I found in the scrap heap:
Someone's mangled piece of extra that was chopped off and thrown away... perfect...
Just take a set of parallels, a few taps with a dead blow mallet, and it's nice a square in the lathe... and then...
We flatten the mutha.
and maybe drill a hole for kicks. Haha, actually a very important hole...
A quick measure reveals... perfect... just 0.055" bigger than what I need.
Take that and do some real quick and dirty calcs to figure out what to do next... and in steps...
Ye Olde Bridgeport
Very useful tool, a hole finder. Lets me find... oh hey, that's that hole I drilled! Knew it would come in handy...
Drill some more holes... and...
ooo... a counterbore... for...
Making counterbored holes . Will show you what these are for in a bit.
This is my most favorite tool in the shop...
A deburring tool. Makes deburring holes nice and easy, puts a nice chamfer on them too
BAM, lid's on, nice and tight and whoa... socket screws!
Once I take off that extra 55 thou those socket screws should be perfectly level with the top of the lid.
Sorry, but my camera ran outa juice right then, so will have to wait till next time for more... Gotta do some plastic machining next, it's the window's turn...
Some fine craftsmanship there.
Dang man! I wish I had access to those tools. Crazy job man.
how do you expect to affect perfomance your design????
temp wise talking in example if you put a XXXX cpu waterblock with a rad pump and res and your design which one is going to be cooler?
Mmmm... can't really say without testing. Me saying my block will have low resistance isn't a fact until I test it, and how I test it.
The base of my block is on the thicker side (1/8" thick, can probably get away with thinner), so the thermal gradient in the cross section of the block will be bigger compared to a block with a very thin base. But the surface area that makes contact with the cooling medium is sooo much bigger than any of the blocks I've seen out there, that might out weigh the performance hit of a thick base (or I'm hoping it would).
Also, my resistance argument is, once I take out any sharp bends, as long as I keep the cross sectional area of the water flow within the block equal to or larger than the cross sectional area of the entering flow (in this case it would be the cross section of the barb), then there should be no flow restriction caused by water acceleration. Also, if the water slows down while going across the fins, it has more time to "saturate" with the heat given off by the fins. Granted this will result in a higher temperatures, it should also result in very little difference between idle and load temperatures.
If the design works the way I hope it will, I can say it should perform just as well as any other big name water block (Dangerden, Aquacomputer, Polarflo, Whitewater, Innovatek, etc) but with a smaller, lower powered pump.
Right now, the block is big, as big as I can make it, which makes machining easier and maximizes the surface area. Once I can get a "proof of concept" out, I can concentrate on sizing the thing down. Maybe if I do it right I can get away with a tiny block that uses 1/4" tubing and uses a tiny tiny pump.
This looks so good, You really nailed the design there. I simply need a miller
So far the perfectreservoir
isn`t the weight to heavy?
and if you put a big pump ??? it will perfom better isn't it?
thats not always the case my freind, i had a hydor l30 in my loop, and temps were 45c load, replaced the l30 with an l20 and its at 40c full load, its all about water flow dynamics, you could have loads of flow, but the water can only pick up so much heat in a certain time, so its useless having too much flow, its all about getting the right amount of flow
loving the look of your block man, keep up the amazing work!
nice work, i love playing and making stuff with machines and lathes etc. atlhough i'm not very skilled to and extent
this is just beautiful. the cylindrical design reminds me of the Zalman block but you're is totally different inside. i'm assuming since much of it will be made out of aluminum, it will be kind of light. have you figured out a retention mechanism yet? it would be nice if you didn't have to cover up the window you're putting on top.
actually, it would probably have been the wattage difference in the pumps that made the difference, depending on the radiator. Waterblocks dont get 'worse' with more flow. But thats for another thread
Very nice work lemur, i miss using decent tools - makes life 10x easier, doesnt it
frodo if what are you saying is true this block will need a small pump....
to have a nice perfomance... im getting the idea
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