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Radical CPU waterblock [Update] - Hey guys, I'm back! Window Fixed! 6/22/05

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Lemur 6, 24 Apr 2005.

  1. frodo

    frodo What's a Dremel?

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    Hi all

    yes what i was saying is that to get the most out of this block it would be best to have a lower flowrate, as there is little resistance (which is good)

    also, how are you going to protect the block lemur, as mixing copper and aluminium isnt the best thing, corrosion will occur unless you anodize the aluminium

    i might get a few lumps of copper and make my own block at some stage, shame i dont have a lathe!
     
  2. zackbass

    zackbass What's a Dremel?

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    So what's the plan? I can think of a few different ways to get the job done with normal shop equipment. How about you let me know how wildly off I am? :naughty:

    Cut the copper base/fin assembly on the lathe.
    Finish the inlet and outlet sides flat using a normal end mill.
    Drill holes in the fin area to make the profiles for the little half circles.
    Use a slitting saw on an arbor to cut away the channels.

    A real pain in the bottom to be done on manual machine equipment, but certainly doable nonetheless.
     
  3. Lemur 6

    Lemur 6 What's a Dremel?

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    Shhhh!!! Slitting saws are those rare secrets that machinists never reveal! ;) Were you snooping around my notebook? You yanked that last page I wrote didn't you? Haha, kudos for figuring it out.

    Yep... if I decide to keep the prototype as is. If I find I can shrink the thing considerably, I'll probably make the jacket a two part design using Delrin on the inside and an aluminum shell on the outside just for aesthetics.

    -Lemur 6
     
  4. Lemur 6

    Lemur 6 What's a Dremel?

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    Window Fabrication and Fitting - 4/30/05

    Hey guys, update time!

    Remember that lid I was working on? Take a look:
    [​IMG]
    Bunged out that hole in the middle to the final size.

    And also...
    [​IMG]
    Been playing around with a bit of acrylic. Had to modify the design a slight bit, couldn't fit a 2 inch end mill in between the mounting screws, so I said hell with it and didn't counterbore the window hole. So now the window goes the entire diameter of the block, like so:

    [​IMG]
    And oh yeah... it's a tight fit:

    [​IMG]
    You can give it a good shake or two and it won't come out, there's what 1/1000th of an inch accuracy will give you.

    Modified design needed an extra step, so we need...
    [​IMG]
    a transfer punch. (Actually, I was just feeling kinda lazy and didn't want to reinstall the turn table on the bridgeport :D). Anywho... we transfer the holes with a lil tap of a hammer...

    [​IMG]
    like so (That stuff in the background is pieces from another project I'm working on for work, has nothing to do with computers, and if I told you what it was you'd all be like Whaaa??? :confused:. Heehee, no worries, I might show a lil tidbit later :D). And then...

    [​IMG]
    we drill em out.

    [​IMG]
    Test fit, looks good.

    [​IMG]
    Looks real good... (gotta look REEEAAAL hard, and you can probably almost see the window). Why'd I remove the backing? Actually... I dunno... maybe I shouldn't have :duh:. I have a bad feeling this window won't survive the final turning (i.e. the part between the screw hole and the edge of the window is going to get pretty thin and I run the risk of it chipping off, which is why I originally designed it to not have the edge exposed on the outside). But, if the window dies, no big deal, was easy to machine and plenty of 50 year old acrylic lying around :) (that backing was a pain in the butt to get off btw, which was one of the reasons it's off now, to see if it would come off at all) Also, originally I had designed the window to go into the jacket 1/8th of an inch, but now it doesn't, so I'll have to remove some more material off the jacket before I give it the final spin. Lets hope I don't run into any fatal mistakes :worried:.

    -Lemur 6
     
  5. Stuntman

    Stuntman Minimodder

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  6. jaguarking11

    jaguarking11 Peterbilt-strong

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    are you going to have a copper base on that thing or aluminum?
     
  7. Firehed

    Firehed Why not? I own a domain to match.

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    Great work! Wish I had access to machines like that...
     
  8. IYIENACE

    IYIENACE What's a Dremel?

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    So I guess there will be an O ring cut into the cap or acrylic?
     
  9. zackbass

    zackbass What's a Dremel?

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    Can you clarify that a bit? I know I'm missing something stupid, but I'm just not getting the entire picture of why you can't counterbore either the lid or the main body to get rid of the "acrylic sandwich" look on the outside of the WB.
     
  10. zackbass

    zackbass What's a Dremel?

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    He should be absolutely fine with the single groove in the main body and the uncut flat surface of the acrylic contacting the o-ring. A second o-ring above the window isn't required at all since the it's the window that does all the sealing, the top plate seems to only serve as a pressure plate distributing the force of the screws more evenly across the acrylic.
     
  11. tank_rider

    tank_rider What's a Dremel?

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    I've been playing around with the designs of a few straight through blocks for the past few months. Good to see someone doing it :)

    I may well try to make one in the summer when i have access to a full set of machines.

    Ill definately be keeping my eye on this one very closely.

    Nice idea to use delrin. I have used it recently in a university project for a load of bearings due to its good properties.
     
  12. Lemur 6

    Lemur 6 What's a Dremel?

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    Well the main body I can't counterbore, since it has the O-ring groove and the O-ring (unless I put an O-ring groove on the counterbored surface which is kinda hard to do). The reason I can't counterbore the lid to the tolerances I need are: 1) I have no 4 jaw chuck for the lathe, 2) the 3 jaw chuck is off center (as most 3-jaw chucks are), 3) therefore I need to use a mounting block of some kind so I can have the lid extended on the end of a platform that I can hammer in to make it center with the rotation of the lathe, and finally 4), the friggin mounting screws heads (socket screws, smallest head I can find), are too big, so I have an array of 6 screws and in the middle i need a counterbore, but I can't fit the proper bit into the area because I'll start chipping off hardened steel bolt heads :wallbash: (also not good for the bit).

    Simply a mistake on my part for not checking tolerances like that more carefully. But if I happen to find a 4-jaw chuck lying around, I'll probably go and finish off the job, or take this as a lesson learned and make sure I don't make the same mistake for the second (and hopefully last) iteration.

    Oh definately copper, Oxygen Free High Conductivity copper. Check out the very first post, the base is pretty crazy lookin.

    Yep, exactly. When you cut an O-ring groove, there's a special set of rules you follow. What you want is a channel on one part of the mating face that will have a shape such that when you full compress the round O-ring, the O-ring cross section becomes a square, so I guess they used some sort of conservation of volume equations to figure out the sizes. Acrylic (what I was afraid of using and was hoping to get some polycarbonate) chips and cracks if you breathe on it (I guess the same's true for plexi). So without a lazer cutter, if I dill holes into the window, it's going to crack sooner or later (which is a problem I'm having right now). So the ORIGINAL design went around that by not dealing with drilling holes in the window all together and just having it pressed onto an O-ring using a window clamp.

    Hmm... I guess as a no-photo update. I'm doing some test machining on copper right now to see what sort of settings leave what sort of finishes. I think I have it to a point where it leaves a better finish than on the alu, but it's slowwww... But atleast it's not steel :)

    -Lemur 6
     
  13. -Erik-

    -Erik- Guest

    Damn that block looks sweet!

    Guess you are gonna light that up with some blue leds right?

    Its gonna look killer
     
  14. zackbass

    zackbass What's a Dremel?

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    What mix cutting fluid do you usually use with Cu?
     
  15. Lemur 6

    Lemur 6 What's a Dremel?

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    Hmm... this clearish thick stuff called CoolTool. And occasionally I'll just use waste grease that we have pails of. Strangely, niether of them smoke on Cu, while they smoke like hell on Alu and Steel.

    Wish I had some of that milk stuff...

    -Lemur 6
     
  16. zackbass

    zackbass What's a Dremel?

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    I don't know if it's correct or not, but i've had very good luck cutting copper with the kerosene/oil mix usually used with aluminum. It does wonders working against the gumming action of the copper.
     
  17. Blanbec

    Blanbec What's a Dremel?

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    Great waterblock.
    If I had a cnc, i'll be so happy...
     
  18. TMM

    TMM Modder

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    its not done on a CNC, its done manually on a Lathe :)

    Great work! :rock: I'll be interested to see how it mounts :dremel:
     
  19. Rh1n0x

    Rh1n0x What's a Dremel?

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    That makes two of us :D
     
  20. ginx

    ginx What's a Dremel?

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    Awesome work! I can't wait to see the rest of it come together.
     

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