Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by quizz_kid, 19 Aug 2012.
Thanks for the tip... I´m going to buy one after payday!
Thank you Pranja! Appreciated.
that is correct =) they are cutting straighter because the shears arn't straight, it makes the cutting action less brutal i.e the difference between hacking bread or cutting with a knife, try whack it straight trought and then try cutting... =P spiral bits also usually holds longer and work cooler for that reason, smoother action(and longer cutting edge)
one thing you should think of is that the spiral can go both ways, either lifting some splinters or pushing them down!
Back to work!
So, this is my idea for the 1st player controller:
I needed the docking/detaching between the pads to feel solid + I needed a 8-pin connection.
I had a lot of complex ideas, but ended up with 4x 6,3mm tele plugs.
The male and female are ideal for both bridge AND connection. I´m quite proud of the solution.
I made button panels for both controllers
Made som fittings for the projector
This is what I´ll be using for the vertical adjustments of the projector. Veeery neat
Cut iout some i/o panels and painted them black
Finally, I made a slight tapered lens protection in solid walnut and added a tiny brass chain.
Hope you´ll like it. Til next time, YO!
Been a while... Just moved to a new school. Anyway, here´s update!
Button layout drilled
Made a locking mechanism for the controllers. Two tiny 14mm walnut
knobs that´ll lock 3mm MDF pieces into a groove and keep the sliding backside in place.
Glued the trackball stand onto the mouse PCB
Hade to make 4mm spacers for the right distance between ball and laser eye.
Put the foot together... This is what it looks like with casters. I kinda like it.
Also started to make some drilling for the battery holders.
My two wireless Xbox 360 controllers arrived
Took them apart and started on the soldering
... and this is after 3 hrs. Never try solder on a 360. That PCB is made in hell!!!
Nice work again quizz. I love the docking system.
Love the awesomeness you cram into your projects with added perfect woodwork.
Thanks Attila... I´m quite proud with the docking myself
Much appriciated as always Waynio!
These are the Sanwa JLF joysticks I´ll be using. I needed to mod them a bit, make the 4- to 8-way switching more user friendly
This is the bracket in original
I pulled it apart, removed some plastic och made a turning knob in walnut
Glued with epoxy
Easy access, this is what it´ll look like.
Tomorrow I´m going to re-veneer the whole console. But that´s for tomorrow. So long!!
oooh, nice progress! i love the woodworking!
I am amazed by your work my friend, keep on messing with my mind!!!
Loving the work put into this, looking awesome
Thanks guys, appreciate it!
So, I couldn´t stand that cracked surface of really bad veneering... So I decided to re-do it.
I starded by cutting the hexagon apart in a bandsaw
Then I put the pieces through some sanding. Had to sand the inner sides down aswell, about 3 mm, just to make up for the loss in material during the bandsaw cutting. So the sides are a bit thinner now, but still very stable.
Re-veneering going on, this time using thicker pieces that covers the whole sides.
This is after the facelift... soooo much better. The grain looks better aswell. Also made some profile milling at the top.
mind if i ask some questions...
1) what did you use to cross cut the MDF core walnut ply?
2) did you use any sacrificial wood or masking tape?
basically, the easiest way to prevent chipping in cross cuts (when cutting perpendicular to grain) is to use masking tape.
if you are using a table saw, 2 things will help a ton also.
1) zero tolerance insert where the slit for the saw is narrow enough to help keep wood in check... (but may be difficult in miter cuts)
2) type of blade you are using on your table saw... instead of ripping blades, higher tpi blades, take it slow and get a cleaner cut.
also, where you get your plywood matters... good lumber mill quality is far better than box stores...
anyways, nice solution to your problems.
great work again!
3mm of sanding? Did you do that by hand, or do you have a thickness sander? That's a lot!
Looks much better now, and I would agree about the grain patterns too. Is that figure in the third from last picture? Nice!
Thanks! I used a table saw with blade high and sacrificial wood. I dont trust masking tape that much, had some issues with it before. Good tips though!
Thank you. Yep, we have a sander master in my new workshop. That mashine is a blessing from above!! And yeah, that's figure... The veneer almost sparkles in sertain lights. Cant wait to put finish on that...
Bought some simple black on'n'off switches for the controllers, and drilled some holes.
Did the decoration painting... Check my old "R-Kaid-6" thread for more info about it.
I painted the inner sides of the console aswell, in black, mainly to cover the MDF.
I´ve decided to not use the hexagon grill, it´s a bit too much IMO
I´m not sure about the frames for the sides. There are no cracks to hide anymore, but I actually like them, so I might use them. Any thoughts?
Stained the front panel for contrast
I´m also thinking about remaking the fan grill in front. I kind of like the roughness, but I could make a cleaner one with sharper tools. Thoughts there?
Since nobody cared(), I decided to go with frames and grill.
Mmm... The finish, 4 layers of Danish oil.
Assemble up next
You auto picked what I was going to say.
The round grill bit though I also like the detail from the slight roughness that you can only see from right up close.
Finishing & patterns are looking great.
Wuuuuh! You used something Danish
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