Disclaimer - if you're familiar with the workings of a cassette adaptor, skip the story and head to the bottom... I manged to get an old cd/cassette/radio setup ripped apart (Sharp CMS-C333), since the CD changer in it was busted. I decided that I'm going to try salvaging the FM tuner, which is fine at the moment, but wanted to try converting the dual-cassette deck into a 3.5mm jack so that I can use the unit as a speaker system for my PC (going into a mame cabinet hopefully, or else I'd just use normal speakers). So, I just went in head-first and kind of guessed at the wiring. The cassette unit had three little wire harnesses. One 8-pin harness went to the shared motor unit. The other two each went to the cassette-reading heads (one was a five-wire thing, two of them went to a recording head, the other was three-wire straight to the other head). So after disconnecting one cassette head, I managed to dig up a tape and test it in the other one, with the power harness connected as well, and it was fine. Tried the other as well, just to confirm things, and it also worked. Pretty much confirmed for me that the pink/black/white wiring was indeed a line-in type thing. Here comes the smart part- chop off the little plug bit, and solder it to a 3.5mm jack. Great in theory, not so much in practice. Apparently the heads put out a far lower signal strength than a line-out jack Long story short, the adaptor I made is worthless due to the signal strength difference. Anything above a volume level above 1px wide on my iPod's display from the headphone jack (tried the line-out on the dock, which is WAY above that level) and it distorts to insanity, and at about twenty times the volume level it should be. Anyways, the question is this - how can I convert that cassette-head-in plug into something useful by a computer/MP3 player/etc? I came up with the idea of just using one of those car cassette adaptors in the working tape deck... AFTER I cut off the plugs (both of them! and they're incredibly painful to solder to when I have decent-length leads to work with) In any case that would have been far less than ideal, as I'd rather not waste the space, but it should have worked. Would it be as simple as working a resistor into the loop, and if so, what size? Google is turning up neither information nor products, and I haven't found a cheap amp that I could use in place of this makeshift setup either.