Cooling Room cooling - heat disposal?

Okay, it's summer and it's getting hot! My computer does not help matters, pumping out loads of heat all the time.

So, what is the solution? I remember that dodgy wall cavity funnel thing... problem there is that you would need a good filter to keep dust and insects out, which would make the fans work a lot harder.

Any other ideas? Maybe a big pipe leading outside of a window or something? Extractor fan outlet like you have over a stove in the kitchen? I was thinking about a slow one of those for case cooling actually...

MoJo

 

Yea youll need to duct the heat outside somehow as the only way to really reduce the heatout put of you computer is to underclock it....

If you can find an extra side panel you could cut a hole in it an put some kinda fan and duct thats run to your fan that blows out...Put a lil screen on the window exaust and you wont have a problem with any lil criters that get the urge....

I know they sell regular window units that have fans in them...Might moddeize something like htat...

 

I just noticed that my monitor is chucking out loads of heat too. Short of getting an LCD (not so good for both desktop and games use sadly) I'm not sure what I can do about that. It's a really nice 19" CTX...

MoJo

 

I feel it's a common misconception that LCDs are no good for games. I use a CTX PV720A 17" LCD which has a response time of around 25-30ms and is fine for games. When playing fast games like UT2003, the display looks as if it is being split horizontally but not by much. Do your research and get a good LCD monitor and you'll be fine.

 

I use an 8000 BTU AC
for a small room
it can normally keep up
(currently 3xCRTs, 2xcomputers, 1xOperator 1xDog)

 

It's not so much the response time, I saw my mates laptop and was quite impressed with it. The problem is fixed resolution. I like to use 1280x1024 as standard, with 1600x1200 for some DTP stuff. For games I use 1024x768 mostly, because stuff runs nicely with that on my GeForce Ti4200 64MB.

MoJo

 

I can't argue with that. LCDs are pretty funny about lower resolutions, especially some laptops without the ability to smooth the display. Some larger LCDs have more physical dots than pixels, which means they are generally fine at a lower resolution (such as one standard drop below. ie. from 1280x1024 to 1152x864 or 1024x768)

 

im having the same problem, ive decided to take some 6x2 pvc ducting and run it behind my desk and wardrobe to neat the window and put something in place to run it to the window. also the toher window should have some intake fan for the cooler air to come in once its done. Will post some pics when it gets done

 

you could argue forever on this topic but the fact is, a top of the range CRT @ 100hz is just as easy on the eyes as an LCD, has better colordefinition and representation and has a faster response time. In short at the moment CRTs (decent ones) are still better a producing images than LCDs.

however, no doubt in the next year or 2 LCDs will be able to match a CRTs level of picture quality but there not quite there yet.

Cheers

 

ive got the same problem .

i just have a fan sitting blowing in my face

does the job nicley

 

Use a flexable dryer duct and send it from the window to either the intake or the exaust.

 

Been thinking about ducting... what about those large wall mounted ducts that are usually used for cables? You know, you find them in offices and computer rooms everywhere.

You can get ones with two "channels", one for network cables and one for power cables. However, if you used on for in and one for out, you could pump air through the system from a window or outside vent.

Still on my quest for a silent mains powered fan, 12" or so... for the ultimate quiet air cooling

MoJo

 

thats what i was pondering using, but that trunking will cost more than 2 seperate. larger channels would cost, and you'd get better air flow from 2 of them.

I just gonna use one of them taking air away to the window an have an intake to the room in general on the toher one.

 

buy window mount air conditioner
put it in your window
take puter
take left and right panels off
duct tape it to the AC

diagram [ph34r my mad 1337 ANSI drawing skillz]

Code:

____________|      |__   ______
                        |      |    | |           |
                        |      |    | |           |
                        |wall|    | | PC      |
            AC        |      |    | |           |
                        |      |    | |           |
                        |      |    | |           |
                        |      |    | |           |
                        |      |    | |           |
-------------------|      |----  |--------|

EDIT: *extremely anrgy*
My drawing's messed up!

Quote my post to see it the correct way.

 

Large fans make more noise per revolution than smaller fans. I would recommend two banks of 2-5 medium flow 80mm or 92mm fans. One for intake and one for exaust.

 

But large fans don't ahve to revolve as much to push the same amount of air

 

That's true, but there is a minimal RPM of the fan to consider.

Also, the smaller fans give off a higher frequency which is easier to block given the same amount of material.

 

in work we have a cheep aircon unit, one of the type that has an exaust tube you dangle out of the window, instead of an external heatsink, you could fix some kind of duct from the cold output to pipe straight into ur system, and point the hot one out of the window...or do the same to ur monitor, i have 2 compaq V900 19" crts (which get very hot) and two systems and im fine with just the windows/door/curtains open to cause a draft through the room.

 

If you use a larger than 92mm fan, the bearing type is quite
important in terms of noise & acoustic artefacts.

Past 92mm, you gain lower-rpm so less noise but usually
a much bigger motor/hub & so bearing noise creeps up.

o NMB & Panaflo 120mm are fans to look into
o For the same cfm an NMB has 10% lower dB(A) than a PAPST

However, 92mm is often a sweet spot on noise/cfm.

One problem you do face with a long duct is the static
pressure capability of dc axial fans is usually very low.
A centrigual blower creates 22-30mm water pressure,
whereas a typical DC Axial will do 0.2-2.8mm in contrast.

That pushes one into 38mm deep fans to offset, if not into
push & pull fans (intake & exhaust). For many US places the
most efficient cooler beyond A/C is an attic fan. You can also
minimise solar gain with heat-reflective clear films and blinds.

Some TFT get close to the lower-end CRT, but there are some
very poor TFTs out there - check the cheapy "TFT TVs" and some
are utterly unwatchable re lag and viewing angle range.

Ironically the top laptops often have the best TFTs on them.
--
Dorothy Bradbury
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/panaflo.htm

 

One thing about blowers is that the CFM/DBa ratio is reduced. Blowers (correct me if I'm wrong) have better pressure than Axial fans, but less CFM.