The plan is to have the battery removable yes, cause batteries degrades, no matter what. And have maybe this between battery and mbo? Ok, thanks.
So, could I use this regulator between battery and HW? And also use it for stationary mains supply dc connection? From what I understand it has input for both battery terminal and AC/DC sources? / Quizz
Yep would be good but says lead acid battery so prob only ok for nicad no lithiums, i should really look into this!
Oh, I didn´t noticed that. Hmm... Well, you are very welcome to look into this some, if you have the time. It would be very appreciated!
If I would know what to look for, I could do it myself I guess. But I have no idea. A regulator of some kind that keeps the battery output constant 12v I guess?
Yeah pretty much, here's what I think the circuit should do, provide a regulated 12v dc from battery with a low voltage warning and cut off for lithium cells (life, lipo etc). Balance and charge said batteries whilst providing the 12v, both from an W3C source, you could combine circuits that do these but an all in one solution would be best. Sent from my LT18i using Tapatalk 2
It's actually very possible to use the Pico PSU and Pico UPS. I used a standard 9a/h SLA battery and a 12v PSU (my car, actually) to achieve a system that "works like a laptop" AKA it will run powered, and can be unpowered with an immediate switch to battery. It has a built in charger circuit that charged the battery in about 3.5 hrs too (A very reasonable C coefficient for a SLA battery of that capacity).
Yep sounds like it would work, just assumed the op would want to use lithium batteries because they're much lighter and tend to be a higher capacity.
Ok had a look at mini-box.com and they do have a Pico UPS that supports Li-Po Li-Ion, this at $120, frankly it's an expensive but very capable bit of kit. It charges and balances lithium cells, so you could run 4S (4 3.7v cells in Series, 14.8v) Li-Po batteries which come a a complete sealed unit as per RC cars and seeing as how you don't need a high discharge value, something like this would do, I chose a hardcase LiPo because they're more robust and would be easier to accomodate in a case IMO, it's a 5Ah unit. Obviously this is a pretty expensive solution, and a much cheaper Pb (Lead acid) or NiCad (Nickel Cadmium) setup could be achieved for much cheaper, but would be heavier and/or less capacity, plus you'd have to maintain batteries, whereas the $120 unit seems to do the lithium maintenance for you. Bear in mind my battery experience is heavily geared toward RC, tempered with a fair few years using portable communications kit too, so maybe someone else would have a different take on this. I haven't looked into SLA (sealed lead acid, had to google it, haha). HTH
I=ve found this step up&down converter. Of course I have no idea about the quality in that one, but I can always use it as a stepdown for say a 14v battery if the 12v is not working. Btw, can you open up a battery like this one? I would like to make an extension of the on/off button
So, I´ve now tried a setup using: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221204741412?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 and http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-12V-800..._Photographic_Accessories&hash=item337ace81a4 The step up&down converter doesn´t seem to work(?) I cant get anything powered up when it´s in the circuit. Without the converter, just using the battery, the LCD works for abot 7 secs, then dead But the PC won't boot with the battery. I only got the mono LED lit up for about half a second, then nothing. Why is this? The mobo is more demanding than the LCD when it comes to precise voltage values I guess, and without a proper converter it won´t work, am I right? So should I look for another coverter? Or look for another type of battery sytem?
