The project! This is the start of two part project and investigation. I won't to see what's hot and what's not? Is air cooling better but noisier or is water kooling better but more of an overhead and a bigger risk. The first part will be to build a basic water cooled system. Then see if air cooling can match it for noise and performance. Over the last couple of years both types have made huge in roads to the reseller markets and both have had a lot of exposure. I'm just not sure anymore which version of cooling is better than the other. The only way for me to settle this argument is to compare both myself. I will be modifying this case. More images to follow shortly This will be a water-cooled system first up with some custom elements and off the shelf products. I have made my own custom reservoir and some other bits and pieces along the way. Be prepared for the long haul this has been in the offing for little while now. But after the success and feedback from the Xbox project, I'm sure posting updates here will push this one along at the same speed. Hardware: Case: Aluminium Dragon AX-01SLD Review: http://www.gibtek.co.uk/hardware/dragonali.php Water Kit: Water Block: Spir@l Pump: TBA Rad: Neptune Res: Homemade I have collected loads of other kit, too much to list and will probably miss something posting now. You'll see what I have planned as the project unravels. I'd like to thank Pete over at OverClock for all his help and support.
This isn't a bump honest. I've been in hospital and have been struggling with a couple of things. But should be firing on all cylinders shortly It's given me time to consider which pump shall I use? I have a Ehiem 1250 pump already, which I think is a little over kill for this project. I will only be using one block to start with so need something a little smaller for starters. The connections through out will be 1/2" and will be using a home Res. Any final recommendations before I flex the credit card? Here's my short list: 1. Eheim 1048 pump 2. Ehiem Compact 1000 (Convert to an inline pump) 3. Swiftech MCP300 4. Hydor EX 700 I can't decide
Sounds cool! I'm taking a front seat to this project... Hope everything is well with the hospital and all...
My Res When I was looking for a Res solution I tried many options, after checking the normal resources. I need something that was seal able and refillable from the outside of the case. This PC will be used for LAN's and local demonstrations if anyone is interested. Water-cooling locally is still exciting news. I tried Tupperware, model aeroplane tanks but nothing really seemed to have that wow factor. I really wanted a custom Res as I could have easily bought one from a specialist supplier. Then I thought about drinks bottles and Billy cans like you get in camping shops. Without hesitation I went to my local camping shop "Millets" Look what I found! This had the wow factor blue, just stood off the shelf but whatever your colour theme, there was a wide range of colours I could have chose from. That's enough preamble let's get on to the modding I bought some 1/2" barbs by 1/4" BSP fittings from Thorite and blagged some 8mm OD copper tube from my plumber next door neighbour. You can just make out I had to just drill out the barb closest in the picture in order for it to fit the copper tube. I then had to work out what length I needed for the inlet tube, I was advised to make it 2/3 of the overall height of the bottle. The shepherds hook detail was just disperse the water inside the bottle. I have since done away with this as I think this causes bubbling. I'm no expert and this is only a prototype. I have brought enough materials to make more than one so the next version will be better! Next up was to drill the inlet and outlet holes for the barbs. I also used a nibbler file attachment for the drill so that I could make a key for the sealant. I've used Araldite as my bonding and sealing agent for the attachment of the tube to the barb and the barbs to the can. I have hand no issues of any linking and again through support from members here like TiTch and Haddy have taken it as good advice I've also added some thread tape to the barbs to make sure I get a good bite on the can. Screwed in they look like something like this. After the glue has set I add another layer of glue (Araldite) around the flange of the barbs and the top of the etched can for good measure. For a finishing touch I took the bottle in and matched to a enamel paint tin, in the model shop. I could then make it look as if it had always been like that. It was so funny when I went in there before and ask him for a large fuel tank so that I could mod it for my computer. He went mad at me saying I shouldn't be using stuff that wasn't designed for that purpose Never mind Here's picture of it ready for filling and testing, fingers crossed. Here's it all rigged up with my test system. It's been hooked up for about eight months and have been side tracked doing other things. When I have installed it will look like a nitrous can or Co2 bottle. I've kept this under my hat for long now and it's time to show the world and get some feedback. I do have a Mark II version? 1. A level gauge indicator 2. Back lit inside the bottle This will have to wait, as I need to work out how to fit this
hehe thats really nice, i like the anodised blue. it looks the way watercooling should its always cool to see something a bit different nice work
I hoping the Res won't cause any corrosion isssues with the different metals I'm using? I think it's made out of Ali, I have water wetter in the water and some blue dye.
You can make water even wetter Sorry, just kidding, it just looked funny the first time I read it I like the blue color, hope it works as good as it looks.
Shouldn't be any corrosion problems if you have the correct addatives. Artica is an all round coolant which contains deionised water, corrosion inhibiters, heat transfer ... *thingies* and a few other ingredients I'm sure... www.themodhouse.co.uk
I have been doing some research and chatting to me old M8 TiTch former Extreme Kooling Mod and feel a lot happier. The test unit has been filled for the last 6-8 month and have recently stripped down the test bed for installation. I have examined the tank for corrosion and doesn't show an effectives. We believe this is due to the bottle having a coating on the inside the can. Now that the system is drained I will making up a new type of mix using Purple Ice, as this is a slightly stronger agent then water wetter. I've mounted the rad and some other goodies so some more images coming and some updates
Rad Setup Next up I'll show what I've done to my rad. I'm using the Enermax 120mm fan as it one of the better ones and has speed adjustment also. First up I need to make the holes a little bigger for what I have in mind. Now you can see why. I'm using bolts as stand off's to give me that distance I need from the rad. To close and I will have a dead spot and noise. I don't want either of those. Just need to rough up the paint and the bolt heads to get a good key for the araldite. I seem to use this stuff alot. But there's not much else that can beat it and it does what I need. A strong and waterproof bond. Another visit to the model shop, just to cover up the paint work. You would never know it wasn't supposed to be there. Now I need a cowling to fill in the gap. I'm using carboard as a mock and prototype until the unit is up and running. Then after that I will use this as a pattern for an ali one in the future. Good old duck- tape, nothing better in my book. Looks a little unsightly. But when the fans on and turned up the right way you see it don't look to bad. Bob's your Uncle & fannys a rude word as they say. I'm please with my first rad setup. Next I'll be posting the fitting of it in the case
Not sure if the fan will stay? there seems to be a lot more choice from when I bought this one. If it performs well I shall keep it and if the ducting comes off like I've said you won't see it. I do have a nice laser grill to go on it but again that will depend on noise extra. Images will be posted in due course. Nexxo I love the Ali band and draught excluder, where did you get it or did you cut something down? I used cardboard as it was readily at hand and served it's purpose as a temporary measure. I was considering a similar type like yours but extending the side flanges somehow. Thanks for the comments.
The alu band was a 3cm wide, 2mm thick strip of anodysed aluminium bought at B&Q for a few quid. I covered it in paper masking tape on both sides, to protect it from scratches while working on it. I bent the strip around the fan (you can do that with an alu fan; they're quite sturdy, but else just use a template, say four nails/screws in a piece of wood) and cut it to size. I then cut a small bit of the remainder and drilled holes to fit the (countersunk) M3 x 8mm screws which hold it together. The self-adhesive draught excluder was again from B&Q, and stuck on the inside of the shroud (on the fan side) while a square of draught excluder was stuck to the rad, to correspond with where the edges of the shroud would meet the rad surface. Presto! Given that you are mounting the fan to the rad in exactly the same way I did mine (great minds think alike ), this shroud should fit the bill. Like the colours, by the way, and the alu bottle res is inspired! Can't wait to see the rest!
I bought the alu tubing the other day for the xbox project. I should I spotted the strips when I was there. Never mind, might wing me way down there and buy me a strip. I've mounted the bottle today and it looks great I done so much this week and taken loads of pictures too there will be plenty of updates. Glad you like the Res to took 3 months searching before I ended up with this one.