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Scratch Build – In Progress Slim custom-case. Returning to work.

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by philosopher, 18 Feb 2012.

  1. philosopher

    philosopher I use a Dremel to clean the teeth

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    Hello to everyone who looked at this topic.
    This is my first description of the work on this forum, but not the first time at all.
    I'm from Russia and my knowledge of English not very good. By this do not be surprised if I do not understand your comment, or ask you to rephrase. :rolleyes:

    No sponsors. The project budget is limited, using the materials that I already have. Therefore, no advertising will not be! :D

    I will begin with a description of the work already completed.
    Over a year ago I started working on this project. I had a little free time, so the progress of the work was small. Now my wife needs her own computer at home which occupies minimum space on the table. All components for the computer I already had, so decided not to buy notebook, and continue to work on the project.
    So. List of main components:
    MB: ASUS P5KPL-AM
    CPU: Intel C2D E8200
    RAM: Kingstone DDR2 800MHz 2Gb
    Video: Gigabyte GV-R577SO-1GD
    HDD: Seagate 7200.2 200Gb (maybe more)

    At first, I decided to replace the motherboard northbridge heatsink. Here's how it looked originally:
    [​IMG]
    Low-profile heat sink was taken from another motherboard.
    [​IMG]
    In comparison:
    [​IMG]
    I decided to add a copper base to the heatsink.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Copper base and raditor were individually lapped on the glass with fine abrasive paste:
    [​IMG]
    Then together:
    [​IMG]
    The radiator is ready for installation.
    [​IMG]
    The height of the heatsink from the board just 15mm.

    At the turn video card.
     
  2. Fredo428

    Fredo428 New Member

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    Good job !
     
  3. pp.amorim

    pp.amorim I'm satisfied with my E5300

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    I've the same motherboard, well... If you cut the plastic of the capacitors? It's really cool!
    Look this:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. philosopher

    philosopher I use a Dremel to clean the teeth

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    pp.amorim, on this motherboard is very much to be removed or replaced ... But why to remove shell with a capacitor?
     
  5. philosopher

    philosopher I use a Dremel to clean the teeth

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    [​IMG]
    This graphics adapter is present in my project.
    The first step is - removing the cooling system.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Not the best type of component placement on the PCB. Okay, work with what we have.
     
  6. pp.amorim

    pp.amorim I'm satisfied with my E5300

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    philosopher: Well, I removed just by the aesthetic.

    For remove, cut a vertical line represented equally in this image:

    [​IMG]

    Then, with a small forceps, carefully remove by pulling gently. If you do not leave, try to pull in several places until it detaches completely.

    OFF:


    My 3D picture of an old motherboard [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 19 Feb 2012
  7. KidMod-Southpaw

    KidMod-Southpaw Super Spamming Saiyan

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    Great stuff- can't wait to see what you do with the graphics adapter!
     
    PingPong likes this.
  8. peteski

    peteski long live the pc

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    nice start mate :rock: :rock: :rock:
     
  9. philosopher

    philosopher I use a Dremel to clean the teeth

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    So, I need low profile cooling for graphics cards. I have several single-slot radiators remaining from burned cards (it's just a gift from a good man).
    [​IMG]
    They are all very similar.
    I disassembled radiators, using kitchen stove. Overheating in the process is impossible, as the heat pipes may explode.
    [​IMG]
    It is strange that such different graphics cards are based on exactly the same parts.
    To increase the capacity of the cooler, I decided to use two at once similar a radiator, which can be seen in the photo above. I need two identical heat pipes. Second, I found in that heatsink:
    [​IMG]
    Now I have material for two symmetrical parts of the radiator and radial turbine for his blowing.
    Heat sink is made of a copper contact plate from a powerful fuse (220V 600A) produced in 1987. :rock:
    [​IMG]
    Both the radiator does not have a base of sufficient thickness to heat could be granted to all of their area of thin strips of contact with a heat pipe. So I decided to make heatspreaders from parts of the same giant fuse.
    [​IMG]
    Cut off all unnecessary.
    [​IMG]
    Plate is dented and require polishing. Incidentally, the contact plate of the fuse is too big, so I sawed off half of it.
    To ensure a minimum layer of the solder after the soldering together of all parts, each is thoroughly grinding on the glass with an abrasive paste.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    After this process the surface of the copper piece is flat enough to stick to the glass.
    Area of heatsink seems still not enough ... So add one more in the design of a small radiator on the heat pipe. :D
    [​IMG]

    For soldering heat pipes using a thin copper plate. It is soldered and additionally bolted in a heated state.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    All the parts in place.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. pp.amorim

    pp.amorim I'm satisfied with my E5300

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    OMG, u're crazy!
     
  11. philosopher

    philosopher I use a Dremel to clean the teeth

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    Such a brutal Russian approach, you mean? :naughty: :D
     
  12. pp.amorim

    pp.amorim I'm satisfied with my E5300

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    You will create heatsinks in all components? And the processor? How is it?
     
  13. KidMod-Southpaw

    KidMod-Southpaw Super Spamming Saiyan

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    That is fantastic! Well done!
     
  14. philosopher

    philosopher I use a Dremel to clean the teeth

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    Sure, but all the time.

    To accurately to solder all the components needed to produce a temporary structure that will be hard to hold parts during soldering.
    [​IMG]
    By the way, I decided to add another heat pipe.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Pre-assembled directly on the drawing.
    [​IMG]
    Warming up with the addition of liquid flux and solder. While no radiators. Copper billets had a little bit easier.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Drill holes in a piece of aluminum directly from the drawing, then cut threads.
    [​IMG]
    Parts of the temporary structures are assembled on the bolts. The clamp bolts soldered parts is provided, under which planted the small aluminum plate, so as not to damage the walls of the heat pipes.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is followed by heating on the stove, plus a butane torch. Flux residues and soot was deleted by Dremel with a steel brush.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Done. The parts are held very strongly.
     
  15. KidMod-Southpaw

    KidMod-Southpaw Super Spamming Saiyan

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  16. peteski

    peteski long live the pc

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    amazing work mate :rock: :rock: :rock:
     
  17. motorsportcfd

    motorsportcfd New Member

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    I'm looking forward to this one! Excellent work so far!
     
  18. pp.amorim

    pp.amorim I'm satisfied with my E5300

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    If you warp the Heat-Pipe 90° to close the system, thus further improving the cooling?
     
  19. philosopher

    philosopher I use a Dremel to clean the teeth

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    To all: Thank you!

    pp.amorim, don't understand you. :blush: Rephrase, please.

    Care must be taken to protect the open crystal from chipping.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Done.
    Fitting heatsink on the video card.
    [​IMG]
    Now, need a the housing and fan. The housings are made at once for both coolers.

    And the following will heatsink to the processor.
     
  20. pp.amorim

    pp.amorim I'm satisfied with my E5300

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    [​IMG]

    In the first picture, it would be necessary to rotate the heatsink upwards, then warp the heatpipe.
    In the second image, warp the heatpipe, but I think it would conflict with the PCI-E.
    In the third iamgem, the most correct, it would warp the heatpipe heatsink onto the right, so do not take up space anywhere, but seems to be difficult...
     

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