Cooling So I read the Sticky

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by customh, 25 Oct 2005.

  1. customh

    customh conflagration.

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    I read the sticky and now i want to know what kind of all the stuff to get. I want to know what kind of pumps people reccommend (links) and what rads (links), i have the blocks picked out and i will be modding so res's are tbd.
     
  2. offroadracer789

    offroadracer789 What's a Dremel?

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    can u give us your blocks. Some blocks work better with more powerful pumps. As for the radiator you can modify a heater core from a car. If you are interested in that i or someone else can give you more information.

    fyi, you could also use a t-line instead of a res, just an idea, i was almost sure id use a rez, but a t-line can give you better flow and its cheaper, so i decided to do that instead. The only advantage to a rez that i could find is that it makes bleeding the system easier.

    Good luck


    :duh: didn't notice your links in the sig. Are you only doing the GPU watercooled? I didnt see any CPU block.
     
  3. clocker

    clocker Shovel Ready

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    I would disagree with this.
    I think a properly designed and positioned reservoir is infinitely superior to a t-line.

    The only advantage to a t-line is that indeed, it is probably cheaper and if space is a real issue might be the only acceptable option. Otherwise a reservoir is my choice if only for the ease of filling/bleeding.
     
  4. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    Seeing as you are going with a DangerDen GPU block, I assume you will be using 1/2" tubing or thereabouts. If you are planning to go SLI in the future, get a BIX2 or similar.

    Your pump depends on the CPU block. If you are going with the latest Swiftech one, you want to use a Laing D5 pump. If not, flow is somewhat less critical and a less noisy pump will do --say a Laing DCC, or an Eheim.

    (And by the way, could you please keep your sig down to four lines? Thanks.)
     
  5. Marci

    Marci Ex-O-CuK / ThermoChill

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    No benefit of res over T or T over res. (Assuming bore of res fittings equals bore of T-piece, otherwise if bore of fittings on res is narrower than bore of tubing the res will create a flow restriction). The choice is generally solely down to personal taste and budget.

    If wanting the best of the best...
    CPU Block - StormG4
    GPU Block - Maze4 or FusionHL
    Pump - LaingD5 / MCP655 / DD12-D5 (all the same pump)
    Rad - ThermoChill PA120.3
    Fans - Entirely your choice - down to preferred noise level more than anything else. The more CFMs the better the performance, the louder the row.
    Tubing - 7/16" ID

    If wanting to settle for mid-range...
    CPU Block - Swiftech MCW6002
    GPU Block - Maze4
    Pump - Eheim 1250 or CSP-Mag
    Rad - PA120.2
    Tubing - 7/16" ID

    If going on a budget...
    CPU Block - Swiftech MCW6000
    GPU Block - Maze4
    Pump - CSPMag
    Rad - Swiftech MCR220QP or Alphacool / XSPC 120.2's
    Tubing - 3/8" ID

    For ghetto, swap rad for heatercore. Don't bother with 1x120mm rads... you'll only have to shell out to upgrade it to a 2x120 or bigger within the next 12 months (simple economics - buy the right stuff the first time and save having old stuff lying around when you come to upgrade).
     
  6. Shadowed_fury

    Shadowed_fury Minimodder

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    Ohhh, Marci, Welcome (Edit: Back) to the forums dude! :D
    (customholle, meet the master)
     
  7. Marci

    Marci Ex-O-CuK / ThermoChill

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    Shucks don't pedestal me guys... just means there's further to fall and I have to put more effort into keeping me balance...
     
  8. customh

    customh conflagration.

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    Last edited: 25 Oct 2005
  9. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    The Laing D5 pump is sold by DangerDen. For the rest, Google is a wonderful tool --and so is the sticky with online watercooling shops that we keep at the top of these forums. ;)

    I'd see if you can get away with not using a chipset block. Flow is going to be fairly important in your setup and that block is a flow killer. See if you can fit a Zalman passive NB heatsink instead. If you work the airflow in your case out well (which you should), then there should be no problem.

    The Pi-Thon hoselocks look very pretty and I've used some myself, but keep in mind that they are quite wide. Can you really fit two of them side-by-side on the waterblock barbs? And if you fit them on the radiator, won't they interfere with the fan and shroud? I think you'll find they will pose a problem --which is exactly the reason I haven't used them all over my PC... :)
     
  10. phuzz

    phuzz This is a title

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    Wish I'd known this one through before, a single 120 radiator might only be just enough for an Athlon64...
     
  11. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    No, it will be plenty. I have two Operon 250s and a Radeon 9800 cooled on a single BIX with a low-flow Panaflo L1A fan, no problem whatsoever. :thumb:

    Dual rads only become important if you want to go SLI.
     
  12. Marci

    Marci Ex-O-CuK / ThermoChill

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    Easiest way to approach - are you wanting quiet predominantly, or performance? If quiet, then single 120mm rad is the way to go... of which PA160 offers best performance... but if space is an issue the PA120 offers 2nd best performance for lowest noise, followed by MCR120QP from Swiftech iirc...

    If performance is the ultimate goal, then bigger is always better when it comes to the rad. PA160 is the happy trade-off... sitting at 85-95% performance of most 2x120 rads, it gets you the most performance from one fan, with headroom. For a good all round kit...

    CPU Block - StormG4 (www.swiftnets.com)
    GPU Block - Maze4 or FusionHL (www.dangerden.com)
    Pump - LaingD5 / MCP655 / DD12-D5 (all the same pump - either of the 2 stores above)
    Rad - ThermoChill PA160 (www.dangerden.com)
    Fans - Entirely your choice - down to preferred noise level more than anything else. The more CFMs the better the performance, the louder the row.
    Tubing - 7/16" ID (www.swiftnets.com / www.mcmaster.com)

    That'll handle your heatload admirably at the lowest possible noise-levels.
     
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