How would i be able to stealth a cd drive if i am using wood for the main part of the case. The wood would be quite thick and i am thinking of using mdf and glass. Any ideas would be useful.
i am thinking of putting a veneer on top of the mdf already. just gotta find a place that sells it. and as cheaply as possible.
There was a guy selling veneer on ebay. He put quite a few lots up for auction. The ones I saw were in the art & antiques/clocks section. Some quite exotic woods. Prices seemed very reasonable to me. A decent timber merchants should carry a small selection of veneers. I have bought oak and walnut this way in the past when I lived in Milton Keynes. Probably more expensive than buying direct from a supplier, but you can examine each piece for damage and grain match. Cheers
Ok il have a look around. With veneer is there any special glue or glueing methods that would have to be used?
contact cement... just be careful... she's an unforgiving mistress and will leave teethmarks in your arse should you not treat her right... http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/veneer.htm
A nice selection of exotic dancers , sorry, veneers, over here ps - how do I do strikethrough text as the dancers bit would have been more effective this way?! Edit by linear: use the vB tag!
I'd go for a project log based around a wood case. I was thinkin' of doin' my own but found an existing piece of IKEA furniture worked better, then covered in a fabric like pleather or velvet ( ) to top off for a finished look.
im thinking of doing a cube made of out two pieces of 6mm mdf stuck together for each panel. I will route out a square in the middle of each panel on for a window to be stuck in the middle of the two pieces.The window will be made out of glass as dust is not attracted to it.The hardware will be on three/two levels with the mobo at the top so it can take air directly from outside for the cpu. All edges will be routed round and I might veneer it might if i am able to get the materials and it doesnt not cost too much as i am 16 and on a low budget. The weight of the case shouldnt matter as i will not be moving it alot. It should also fit into my room and my furniture. If veneer costs too much i was thinking of doing another finish to it but i am at (brick wall) of what to do. Any ideas? Btw would i need to get admin auth to do project log?
I doubt you get admin authority. But, on the other hand, about the project and all... I'm almost 16 [ give it 2.25 months ] and I've got almost exactly the same idea. I just went lazy though, chose an existing piece of furniture and no windows [ I can cut my lighting budget in half ], but I will have both a Mac and PC as well as a USB KVM integrated into a remote box that'll control everything. But I do wonder how you plan on sourcing and cutting glass. That dust must be killer.
Veneer is traditionally stuck on using pearl glue (animal glue). I normally use white woodworking adhesive (Evostick, or similar). This allows you to slide the veneer into position, and to remove any air pockets. Contact adhesive will work just as well, but you only get one shot at positioning. If veneer proves to be too expensive, MDF will take a good paint finish. Use sanding sealer and a high-build primer, followed by any car paint you like. If you decide on paint, a cube design would look good with the corners and edges rounded off, say a half inch radius. This is not something that could be achieved with sheet metal, and could be unique. Cheers
Thanks for the advice. Ive got a glass company near me which does custom jobbies and they are quite cheap. At the mo im sorting out the window design im thinking of having square windows top and both sides and having a window in the shape of a thick t in the front . The spaces this leaves bottom left and bottom right could be used for buttons and led's. Now where to put my lcd......
You don't need any admin rights. The work log forum is just like any other forum with some special restrictions. All you would need to do to start one is to start a thread in the worklog forums.
I had a bad experience with lifting of the veneer using contact cement for a cabinet top. I used a rub on oil finish & I think it reacted with the glue. Since the veneer is so thin & porous you need to match the glue & finish. I agree with clockworks, making the case from mdf, rounding the corners & painting sounds very interesting ...
No way man, veneer owns! However, I understand the problems. Personally, I would say stick with it and try a different adhesive for the veneer. If you decide to go with the MDF, you may have to work very hard to get a decent finnish on it's edges. MDF tends to absoeb a lot on it's edges, and the result is a nice "fluffy" piece of wood! Of course you can get primers and undercoats to take care of the situation, but I have not used any so I can't comment on their effectiveness.
yea ive had the experience of mdf puffing up. unexpected rainstorm + mdf outside = ph47 w00d. lol.i havent had a reply yet from the veneer people so i will wait for that.
My brother is a signwriter (real handpainted signs, as well as the vinyl stuff). He uses exterior grade MDF for all his painted signs as it is easier to work with than marine ply. I have had 3 of his signs on my house for a couple of years, and they have not degraded at all. There is no fluffing round the edges. He sprays the primer and background colour before using enamels for the lettering. The finish that he achieves is very smooth and glossy- he also does custom paint on bikes and some car work, and the signs are up to the same standard. Cheers
yea i bought some marine ply for outside. Start to peel apart after a week, im not going to name the store *cough* wickes *cough* but i think they were telling fibs anyway ive painted mdf well ive helped my dad before and it seems to turn out ok.
