Elegoo CC firmware update. I now have a spaghetti machine. I ran the full calibration cycle again. Yep, more spaghetti. Too tired and pissed off to do anything else tonight.
Christ, that’s not helpful… Any word from the community or Elegoo on a fix? If you’re running Klipper, yeah. Easier with stock Klipper, which presumably what OpenCentauri is. Probably possible with the Elegoo-modified version of Klipper, TBH - it’s been done with the Qidi-modified version of Klipper my Q1 is running. There’s a similar OpenQ1 for my printer also, but the big limitation with that one is that screens don’t work correctly. Whether it’s the manufacturer’s firmware or an “open” version, you’ll probably need to add a filament cutter and the relevant GCode to utilise it in either the slicer’s machine config or the Klipper macros on the machine itself. That’s certainly been done for my Q1, and if the Centauri doesn’t already have a filament cutter I’d be surprised if someone hadn’t designed the relevant parts & GCode already. Manufacturer-provided slicers might be a problem though. I’ve found that Orca Slicer isn’t quite as good with my printer as the manufacturer’s “Qidi Slicer”, even though the Qidi software is just a fork of Orca. I haven’t really had time - or, frankly, sufficient inclination - to tune Orca for my printer. But I’ve done multi-filament prints with Qidi Slicer (after overriding the filament change GCode with a pause command), and every time I print it tries to sync with the “Qidi Box”, their multi-filament unit - even though the “Qidi Box” isn’t compatible with my printer. It might be possible to mod the Q1 to make it compatible with the Qidi Box, but I don’t think enough people have actually got it in their hands yet.
Seen a number of reports of people having issues and others saying it works fine. I switched it off and went to bed, as I was getting dangerously close to putting my fist through it. I wouldn't mind, but it's not like I opted for some beta release - I switched on the printer and was greeted with the update screen.
Something I learned with the forced update to windows 10: If the rig runs the way you want it to, unplug it from the 'innonet'.
The annoying thing is I was keeping it unplugged and printing via USB, after the data mining stories emerged, but they said they were addressing it in the upcoming revision, so I plugged it back in but ran it off a mini PC with nothing but a local windows install on it.
Good that you’ve got the option to do so. That was one of the things that put me off Bambu Labs when all the firmware shenanigans kicked off. Judging by their comments on GitHub issues, I don’t think Qidi will ever be updating the Q1 again. Someone asked in May “Do you plan any future updates of the Q1 Pro firmware”, and their response was literally “May I ask where you think further optimization is needed?”. Ummm… maybe the fact that your base version of Debian went out of support last June and is no longer receiving security updates…? Y’know… Debian… the distro whose sole purpose is to provide long-term stability… Someone did link off to the “FreeDi” alternative firmware, which I am very tempted by. The only thing putting me off is that there are no instructions on the wiki for returning the Q1 to stock firmware, only instructions for the X-Max 3…
Yeah, that killed Bambu as an option for me too. Then you have the lack of updates from Qidi and the prospect of Elegoo rug-pulling on the AMS. None of them are showering themselves in glory.
so its coming to a point where i will need to print something other than pla, petg and tpu. my prusa enclsoure has a sort of hepa filter extractor with carbon/silicone filter this was kinda fine when i had it in the cellar but since the beginning of summer i have moved it upstairs in my gaming room. i want to print fairing, mudgards, headlight cowl, and switch mounts for my motorcycle and the finals parts may well be some CF hybrid would an inline extractor like this be fine?
It really avoids mentioning being brushless like a vent fan should be. Anything flammable going through one of these would be eventful if it's brushed.
If there’s already active air extraction in the enclosure, then you probably only need to worry about ducting. But even if there isn’t already an active fan, I’d be tempted to use a case fan and try to mod it into the power supply for the printer (with appropriate step-down, if it’s a 24v printer). You can always find/design and print a duct adapter. I get why that’d be an issue in a fume extractor fan, but I wouldn’t have thought that would be an issue for a 3D printer exhaust…? I know it’s not ideal to be breathing the fumes from higher end filaments like ABS, ASA, PC, Nylon, etc. But if the fumes are flammable then I wouldn’t want that in my house at all, active extraction or no active extraction.
Some of us crazies have been looking at acetal filament, which would vent formaldehyde if overheated. -and no, I wouldn't print that in my house either. The dose of itchy eyes from an aggressive milling session was enough. -Oh, I have a thing: Yes, my subconscious did get me again. I'm not really a b**b man, but there it is. I decided to keep it smooth for now, and focus on assembly and connection.
Elegoo have the CC on sale for £239 https://uk.elegoo.com/products/centauri-carbon AMS or not, this is a lot of printer for the money.
I have successfully printed a G-1/4 thread. The mayhem has escalated. Also, exporting in metric does result in correct sized parts.
Indeed it is, and it’s this model: https://www.printables.com/model/1215391-unified-10-rack-lenovo-thinkcentre-tiny-mount. It’s sized specifically for ThinkCentre Tiny models, and both the M720Q and an older M73e fit just fine. Specifically, I’m planning to build this rack - the “Mod10”: https://www.printables.com/model/1225275-modular-10-server-rack-mod10. It does cost $6, but I’m not averse to paying people for their designs. I watched this video recently comparing a couple of different 3D printed 10” racks: The Mod10 uses cage nuts to assemble it, and the others featured in the video use various different fastener types. All of them are pretty easy to expand though. I’ve created a collection of a couple of other models that might be useful in this endeavour: https://www.printables.com/@blcollier_2999774/collections/2794642 Suffice to say that you’d want to use PETG at a minimum for all parts, trays, etc - PLA won’t stand the heat.
I saw that vid, I just don't remember seeing the rack frame for the TinyMiniMicro PCs. Good excuse to try out some PETG-CF. Cheers, B
