There's a bunch of silica gel sachets in the boxes. It's probably below 10%, even, but that's as low as the cheap hygrometers read!
If I dump a couple of hygrometers in a tub of fresh silica gel and nothing else they won't get that low.
They agree within a reasonable margin of error to a more expensive air quality monitor when out of the boxes, but I can't swear to their absolute accuracy at the top and bottom ends of their ranges - they came free with the cereal boxes! That said, I don't think they can be too far off: the Creality drying box, which I assume has a better sensor in it, says 15% RH when I put one of the spools in it. Room is maintained around 55% RH.
15-20% is really really good. 10% is pretty much unheard of even via filament dryers, from what I've read. My room is usually around high 30s RH based on a couple of those cheapo hygrometers and three Bluetooth devices - no active air conditioning beyond a couple of mobile air purifiers. I've never registered filament drybox RH below 15%.
And I thought my 13% was bad... If i'm reading it correctly. Gets down to 12/13% most of the time in my Creality Pi thing.. I've got something doing well for once.
I usually see around 20-25ish RH in my dryboxes. The room everything is kept in usually reads around 40-45ish, so they’re doing some good at least.
First overnight print: Two-part case for the DJI Neo 2 - basically the same as the one I bought from AliExpress, except this works with the Video Transmitter still installed *and* has two clips for spare batteries. It works absolutely fantastically, no complaints there... but I'm seeing the same problems as before with overhangs, coupled with what looks like an under-extrusion problem (at default settings, no less.) The weird part with that crunchy bit above: the identical section on the other side of the spine is fine! (Well, on the wall of the case - the overhang on the clip is still crunchy as hell.) 205°C initial temperature, raised to 215°C when I saw what looked like under-extrusion in the first couple of solid layers after the infill, 300mm/s print speed, 0.1mm layer height, 15% 3D infill, three walls, five upper solid layers and four bottom solid layers, other than that everything at the defaults. About the only thing I haven't tried is Flashforge's eff'd-about version of Orca Slicer, 'cos that's only available on Windows. So, guess I'm pulling one of the Windows laptops out of storage at some point.
Looks like most of my prints. Overhang/stringing and weirdness. But prints Benchys pretty much perfectly (compared to actual prints). And the calibration towers for temp/retraction etc all come out looking great.
From what I understand, PLA's glass transition temperature is around 55-60C, depending on the specific composition. But many report that some PLAs have been known to soften at around 40C - The Q1 manual, and stickers on the printer itself, instructs you to leave the door open and remove the lid when printing PLA, for exactly this reason. Chamber temp 42.8C... Well... it's a good thing I'm not printing PLA...
In other news: open source colour mixing for PrusaSlicer/Orca Slicer, calibrated for the upcoming Core One “INDX” tool-changer - neat: https://blog.prusa3d.com/our-new-open-source-colormix-model-in-prusaslicer-and-easyprint_136079/
Think I'm going to have to come up with some other way of labelling these disk boxes... 'cos my vinyl labels do not stick to 3D-printed PLA...
It might not work with pla well, but, acetone + glass + a little weight = smooth, flat surface. I've been doing this with PVC moulding cuts and pvc pipe glue for years.
You can have the printer next week, but the canvas kit won't arrive until mid-October. Then you need an hour or two to fit it (they do supply all the needed tools though)
Another practical print: Ergo stand for the Kensington Slimblade. I did it at a 0.08mm layer height, but forgot to turn the speed down so the layer-lines are invisible but there's a sort of diagonal pattern to it instead. You can't really see it from a distance, tho'. It's designed to eliminate the forward tilt and instead tilt it to the right. Dunno if I'll get on with it, but for 80p's worth of filament figured it was worth a go! EDIT: I'll be honest, it feels weird!
Test print The tape slipped. It's a better fit than it looks like. The best part is pla can be bonded to this pvc with pipe glue. I plan to model common floor trim types to make indestructible corners. There's a few spots in the rentals that get the SH*T kicked out of them and I have to rebuild them repeatedly.
How am I supposed to know which wire is positive and negative on this fan? Arctic p12 slim PWM pst. Have to put a JST-XH connector on as plugging into the PSU. The sleeving is all black. One wire on the sleeving has a white line down it. ;/
