Fan pinouts are pretty standardised. The only difference between a 4-pin fan (image posted by @David) and a 3-pin is the additional PWM connector - 12v, GND, and TACH are in the same positions It looks like the Ground pin is the one furthest away from the camera in your photo.
-And just in case you ever re-purpose a Dell: They use a proprietary pinout that will blow up if you drop it in a standard rig. They can be repositioned in the header.
Thanks all, yeah I think its right - won't know 'til i've finished putting the printer back together. ;D Going to be a whole lot of stuff need to move about uhhhhhhhhh
Never mind any discussion about gun control, or the fact that a gun fully 3D printed in plastic is more dangerous to its user than anyone else. The wording of these proposed laws is so incredibly stupid. It defines a 3D printer as: any machine capable of rendering a three-dimensional object from a digital design file; or, any machine capable of making three-dimensional modifications to an object from a digital design file using subtractive manufacturing That second point is not a 3D printer, that's a CNC mill. A CNC mill makes three-dimensional modifications in an object from a digital design file using subtractive manufacturing: the three-dimensional modifications are because it can move in 3 axes, the object is a block of [insert metal here], the digital design file is the model I want to cut out from said block, and the subtractive manufacturing is the milling bit that cuts the metal. And this law would ban them if they didn't have "blocking technology" that attempts to detect whether that mill is 3D printing a gun. I mean... I say it's "stupid" wording, because I am trying desperately to believe that this is just incredibly naive and misguided, and not deliberately designed to kill small-scale & hobbyist manufacturing.
California's new 3d printing law is just as bad, and it's already passed. It basically requires all 3d printer manufacturers to build software into their printers which will recognise when it's printing a gun and automatically stop. The fact that the software doesn't exist, will probably never exist and is virtually impossible to write. How does a piece of software recognise what is effectively just a bunch of vectors as a gun, and how will it judge intent - for example, what's the difference between someone printing an actual gun vs me printing Han Solo's blaster? It's all about the intent. The California law makers obviously looked at photocopiers and thought "Hmm. They can recognise bank notes and refuse to print them...we should do the same with 3d printers! Is it time for lunch yet?". The problem with that is that bank notes are only legally produced by the government, and contain defined security features which a copier can check for. There is no equivalent for guns (there is no such thing as a government-mandated gun that can be checked for certain security features), so the comparison fails. And that's ignoring the fact that most 3d printers are (or are based on) open source designs using open source software. The only people that get hurt are schools and hobbyists. Governments can't seem to understand that criminals don't give a **** about laws - that's why they're criminals!
It gets worse than that. The legislation talks about STL files. Take a simple cube in an STL file: if any one face is lying flat on the bed, that file will have a particular signature. Rotate that cube 45 degrees in the Y-axis - now you’ve changed that STL file’s signature. Now consider how many different positions that simple cube can be rotated across all 3 axes; even if you constrain each axis to rotations of no more than 1 degree, I still make that 7.7 million possible different signatures for that STL file. That’s just one simple cube and we’re not even accounting for changes in mesh geometry that wouldn’t alter the object in any way; if you increase or decrease the number of polygons in that cube’s mesh it would mean that the STL files would have different signatures… but it’s still a cube. And we’re still talking about a primitive 3D shape where the complexity is trivial; the geometry of the case panels I’m printing now are far more complex than that, and they’re essentially just flat panels with some wavy lines cut into them. Looking at the gcode is even more pointless. That doesn’t even represent a 3D object, it’s a big long text file full of rotation commands for motors. And bills like this give companies free rein to ride roughshod over the open source licenses. Because if the firmware with the “blocking technology” is published as open source, any open source developer can come along, fork that repo, rip out the “blocking technology”, and publish a new version of the firmware. So now the manufacturer is facing criminal charges in New York and California for selling 3D printers that don’t have adequate blocking technology in place, because their blocking technology can be trivially bypassed. No, they just won’t bother to release the firmware. It’s already hard enough to get companies to comply with open source licensing obligations. They damn well know that it will take years of extremely expensive litigation that few can afford in order to make them comply. Even if someone pursues that legal case, by the time a judgement is reached it’s a moot point: the printer in question has now been superseded three times because they pump out new models so quickly. The problem is they’ll do it anyway. Larger manufacturers like Bambu, Creality, Elegoo, etc, will make a token effort at compliance by offloading “DETECT IF FILE IS GUN” to some shonky and insecure back-end cloud service, one that’ll soon be breached and then suddenly “oh no, how terrible, all your data has been spaffed across the internet, how terrible - oh well [shrugs]”. The printer will be tied to the internet, they’ll use DRM to “protect” their firmware, and they’ll continue to reach into your device and change its functionality without your knowledge or consent long after you bought it. They’re not going to make one model of printer to comply with New York’s laws, another model to comply with California’s laws, etc. They’ll make one model that meets all US laws, and it’s very unlikely that the UK & EU would get a different model. There will likely always be open source community-driven printer designs, as well as the accompanying open source software & firmware. But if we keep heading down this road, it’s very likely that it becomes out of reach for all except dedicated nerds with the time and money to spare. Much like building a Voron already is; sure you can buy complete kits, but it’s more expensive and you still have to build it yourself. Meanwhile, everyone else will use whatever enshittified nightmare has been farted out this year by Bambu, Creality, Qidi, etc. Arguably we’re already a fair way down that road, and just waiting for the first “subscription service” domino to fall. No one wants to take the heat that will come with being the first, but once one of them starts doing it they’ll all start doing it - line can’t go up if your competitors are leaving you behind.
I'm by no means in favour of the legislation, and I by no means think it will work as-intended, and I definitely think it will have a whole host of unintended consequences, but... why would you try to do signature-based recognition? Just render the STL as an image and do straightforward object recognition on it. Even if you have to render it at a bunch of different rotations (because a gun doesn't look like a gun when you look at it top-down) we're talking milliseconds of processing time on even a potato phone, never mind a PC. All the model distribution sites already do this to let you view an interactive 3D preview in-browser. Same goes here: you can run through the G-code and render what it does to an image, then do object recognition on the image. Every slicer worth its salt already does this (the render-the-G-code bit, for clarity, not the make-an-image-and-run-object-recognition bit!), and while it's more computationally intensive than rendering an STL it's not terrible - and unlike the previews in slicers you wouldn't have to display the tool path, layer switches, retractions, travel, speed changes, layer height, and all of that jazz, you just render it out into a low-res image (at, again, maybe half a dozen different orientations, if you want the best chance of reducing false positives and false negatives.) (And, of course, you could easily bypass both of these systems by providing your gun models pre-supported so that from the outside they look like a crazy forest of bendy trees, and only reveal themselves to be a Glockoff when you take the supports off.) EDIT: Oh, I forgot to say, I refilled my first spool today. A Sunlu Reusable Spool 3.0, with an Elegoo refill. Seemed to fit fine (I'm pretty certain they've both ripped off Bambu Labs' spool/refill design, so that's to be expected) - haven't printed with it yet, tho'. Unlike Sunlu's own refills, though, (which I haven't tried because they're more expensive than buying them on a reusable spool, stupidly), you don't get a replacement label sticker with the Elegoo refills, so the spool still says it's filled with PLA+ White instead of Basic PLA Pink.
If I were inclined to actually take the idea seriously, there are all manner of ways attempting to do this. Comparing “file signatures” was just an example I pulled out of my backside - at the time I was looking at a problem in work involving issues with verifying SHA256 hashes . Rendering gcode is indeed possible, but at the time I was thinking of on-device implementations. Anyone reading or posting in this thread already knows full well that there is no technical solution that can reliably distinguish between “a tube” and “the barrel of an illegal pistol suppressor”. Never mind the technical solution for detecting firearm parts, it fails at even the most basic definition of a “3D printer”.
I guess I'll never get to make that roll-on ball air cannon now... Oh, wait. I'm in Texas. -Although we are filling rapidly with Californian voters...
Whooops! I f*ckEd up. Been re-routing my cables because I printed cable chain holders as it looks tidier etc. The extruder cable, not quite long enough. Thought, Well I have some new solder connector things, i'll have a go... YEAH. Maybe don't do that with the only extruder cable I have. Absolute idiot. Especially how badly all my other electrical/wire related things have been going. Appalling f$kup below. They are sort of purchasable... only one i've found is Amazon at £20 arrival of 2nd July. Seems a bit excessive but might have to suck it up... although it would still be a bit short - there are extensions for it (I found out after) - but they're all quite long. it only needs to be about 15CM longer, not the 100CM extensions are. Sooo. I'm stuck currently. I don't even know if this would have worked had I pulled it off without melting everything. Is anyone a master at wiring/electrical that if I sent my monstrous f**kup you could have a noodle to see about fixing it? Sorry to jump in between the interesting convo on idiotic US laws/bills.
Should just need the burned part chopping off and new wire splicing in, then covering in heatshrink. Added bonus, you can make it whatever length you like. If you don't fancy soldering it yourself, you could do it with a chocolate block or, even easier, a Wago connector, if there's room.
Ah, well, you see I did the same further up - which didn't melt like that, but wondering if it is ok to use haha. As for soldering, I tried doing soldering for other things and couldn't get the hang of it. It's why I wanted to use those solder connectors, thought would be a piss easy quick way to join them. And those connectors I have some of, but they're a bit bulky. They have to sit around the extruder/motor at least until I move it all to the top. But fk it I think i'll just do that.
What you want to do, then, is a lineman splice. See that oldey-timey diagram? Strip enough wire to do A through D inclusive - remembering to slide some heatshrink somewhere on the cable first, so you can cover the join when you're done. Then heat up your iron, stick a blob of solder on the end, and press it up against the wires from underneath. When you see the solder sort of... shlurp up the wire, remove the iron, let the join cool, shove the heatshrink down over the connection, and... well, shrink. With heat. The splice covers any shoddy soldering: it's mechanically strong enough that if you pull the wire it's likely to break anywhere *but* the splice. The solder's really just there to improve the electrical contact. Heck, wrap the wire nice and tight and you could get away without solder at all - Western Union did!
OK, I'm lazy and have still not gotten around to swapping out the mainboard for the replacement board Elegoo sent, mainly because the printer still prints. Anyway, since the CANVAS unit is due to ship this month, I figured I'd start getting things ready and I removed OpenCentauri in favour of the new 1.4.46 firmware which supports the CANVAS unit. So, I finish that up and decided to print a benchy in PBT, since I had it loaded for some desiccant dry boxes I've been printing, and I fired up the slicer and set it going - hey presto, I have a camera feed in the slicer!?!? I have tried ALL of the official firmware releases and OC and nothing helped with either of the cameras for my CC1. Happy, but gobsmacked.
Made a thing recently. Fits MicroATX & MiniITX, and SFX, SFX-L, and ATX PSUs. Filament colour is too light to match the bit-tech palette, but to the eye it is darker and less "pink" It's made to be printed on a small print bed, so it's all in sections that press-fit together and are secured with either push-in joints or small braces that screw on. The brass inserts are obviously heat-set threaded inserts, and magnets need to be glued in - the tolerances are quite wide in order to accommodate "less precise" printers, so can't be push-fit. This guy's here to help take the weight of a full-size ATX power supply - Atlas he is not, so let's go with Alan instead... Alan's services are not required if using SFX. Sadly... the GPU I intended to put in here is a smidge too long at 280mm - officially the design supports only 250mm. STLs are a paid item over on Printables (cost me $12), and overview video below: EDIT: Gahhd dayumn, the camera don't 'alf make the fine stringy bits of PETG stand out, it really doesn't look that bad to the eye... I'll go over it with a stiff brush at some point to loosen it all off.
Change of plan for filament storage: Shame there's not a fifth shelf included with the thing, that'd have been nice! Mind you, at... £22 I could maybe stretch to buying a whole second one just to steal the shelf. Much better than the plastic one: I can fit four cereal boxes abreast, and they come straight out without having to tilt 'em.
Ooh, purdy As for stringy bits, flame is your friend - a quick pass with a mini blowtorch will shrivel them all up to nothing.
